Roof overhang trim. Hemming of roof overhangs - available options and methods Hemming of roof overhangs with siding

Siding for roofing has been used for quite a long time. In this article we will tell you how to line a roof with siding.
This is not such a difficult question, but it must be approached comprehensively and at the same time adhere to certain rules. You can watch the video and see with your own eyes how the roof overhangs are covered with siding.
The photo will show the entire installation process.

Why should you hem the roof?

Covering a roof with siding is not just for beauty. There is also a practical approach here.
To do the job correctly, we need to know what we are trying to achieve:

Covering the roof with siding will help create the desired microclimate in the interior of the room;
Thermal insulation will also be greatly enhanced;
Roof siding will reduce the influence of the atmosphere. Protects against cold air penetration into winter time. And it will not let in excess heat in the summer;
Covering roof overhangs with siding will decorate appearance the building itself and will make the look complete.

Below are instructions for performing this work. All this can be done completely with your own hands and without outside help.
Moreover, the price of the material is not so high, almost everyone can afford it.

Completing of the work

Roof sheathing is necessary for protection rafter system from wind, humid air and atmospheric influences.
There are such options for filing the box:

Hemming in the direction of the rafters;
Horizontal filing.

The second method is the most common; it can be used on all types of roofs. The first method is only suitable for those roofs that have a small slope angle.

Things to consider

It’s worth saying a little about the rules for doing the work:

Before work, all the material must be brought to the work site, but must be stored in the shade. You should never place it in the sun;
Never fasten panels rigidly. The fact is that the vibrations of the panel when heated reach 2 cm. And therefore there should be some play during installation;
For fastening, purchase self-tapping screws, just do not overdo them with thickness, they should fit freely into the groove;

Attention: Some “experts” advise applying sealant to the corners of the panels and at the joints. Under no circumstances should this be done.
If you apply a hard sealant, then the panels will simply turn out and warp as they expand. If it is elastic, then moving the panel will simply tear it off.

Hemming in the direction of the rafters

So:

It is necessary to ensure that the angles of inclination of the box frame and the slope coincide exactly.
You need to check the location of the rafters. They must be in the same plane. We do this using a board, which we stretch according to the installation level and then check using a building level;
There is another option: you can attach a 10 cm wide and 4 cm thick rail to the rafters. First install the outer boards, and then pull the rope and, focusing on it, attach the rest.

Attention: On pitched roofs, at the junction of two slopes, you need to secure one board on both sides of each corner.

Horizontal filing

To install the box, you need to prepare two boards:

The first will need to be secured to the underside of the rafters, and the other to the part of the wall where the rafters fit. In this case, the starting bar must be lowered;
In the corners formed by the intersection of two slopes, the board is installed not with an edge, but with a wide part. This is where the junction of the two boards will take place.
It will run in a straight line from the corner of the roof to the corner of the house. As a result, you will have a structure independent of the walls of the building.
It is better to use as fasteners metal plates and corners, they are more reliable than other materials.

Regardless of what roofing material you choose - clapboard or siding, you need to make preliminary preparations of the rafters for attaching the frame.

Rules to follow when making a frame

So:

The frame begins to be made only after the rafters are installed. In this case, everything must be checked carefully. There should be no distortions;
After completing the work related to the installation of the rafters, they will protrude slightly beyond the line of the facade; you need to take a nylon thread and beat off one straight line and then cut it with a hacksaw;

Attention: This action must be performed in a vertical plane. Hide the remaining ends in the lining of the box. Be sure to check the parallelism of the rafters. The distance between the walls and the edge of the rafters should not differ.

After trimming, you need to attach the sheathing starter board to the edge of the rafters. OSB sheet will do.
Having insulated the walls, you can begin attaching the cornice frame;
Then you need to take care of the ventilation of the house. Place ventilation grilles in the frame. Once you have completed this task, begin installing the siding.

Siding installation

You will need galvanized nails for fastening parts, a hammer, siding and components - internal and external corners, profiles.

Installation of siding begins with the sheathing; in our version, a box frame made of boards is used instead. Horizontal and vertical installation possible.
For the cornice, the most suitable option is the second option, which involves a vertical arrangement.
Please note the following rules:

Be careful not to allow the panel to fit too tightly into the corner profile. To avoid this situation, when manufacturing plates, it is recommended to reduce the required size to 10 mm.
Fastening is done only in the center of the provided hole;

Attention: If for some reason you cannot make a fastening in the provided hole, then you need to pre-drill the panel. Moreover, make the hole larger than required. There shouldn't be much play.

To prevent the panel from being pressed too tightly against the sheathing, leave a gap of 1-1.5 mm between the cap and the panel. This will save you from troubles during the expansion of the material at elevated temperatures;

By neglecting these rules, you increase the risk of siding deformation.
Next you need to do the following:

Attach the installation strips to the edges of the roof, and then insert the siding into them.
Prepare the records required length and, bending them slightly, insert them into the installation profiles. Connect each subsequent panel to the previous one. As a result, all panels should be tightly interlocked, but without tension.

Cornice filing

Nowadays, more and more often, not siding is used for finishing the cornice, but soffits - plastic panels.

In order to install soffits, you need to perform the following steps:

Fasten two strips along the entire length of the cornice: one on the wall side, the second on the overhang side;
Attach F-profile or J-profile to these strips;
Now we measure the width of the roof eaves, taking into account the thermal expansion of the material. In order to determine the required length of the spotlights, subtract 6 mm from the resulting number;
Cut the plates to the required size and place them in the profiles.

Attention: For convenience, they are slightly bent and inserted into the slats. But since the length of the cornice is short, this is not worth doing. Because the plates may break.

Soffits should be placed from the side of the installation profile:

Approaching the corner, the size of the spotlights must be reduced. One of their edges needs to be filed down, maintaining an angle of 45 degrees.
To correctly connect the two sides, a pair of J-profiles is used. There don’t have to be two of them; you can use one, but as a result of such installation, the end will need to be covered with a chamfer or a frontal strip.

As mentioned earlier, finishing the roof with siding is the final stage of its construction. But this stage is no less important.
The roof trim also extends high requirements. Incorrectly chosen material for lining or poorly performed installation can ruin not only the appearance of the roof, but also the entire building.
You can find detailed articles on all these topics on our website.

When the walls and roof with roof covering are ready, you need to think about finishing the overhangs of the roof frame. Some owners leave it without additional filing, but uncovered areas not only spoil the appearance of the building, but are also susceptible to the destructive influence of environmental factors. Lining the roof with siding is one of the options for an inexpensive and beautiful coating, which is used for buildings made of various materials.

Source docke-home.kz

Material selection

Before you buy roof siding in a hardware store or arrange delivery from online resources, you need to understand what materials it is made from and which one is better to choose:

Walls and roofs are covered with metal. In stores you can find galvanized siding, which looks like a rounded beam in shape and has a wooden texture on the surface. Metal is not afraid of mechanical influences and direct sun rays. An additional coating protects it from the damaging effects of moisture. However, at joints, scratches and chips, the metal can quickly rust and ruin the appearance of the skin.

Source www.equipnet.ru

Roof siding is a solid sheet of aluminum covered with a decorative layer. Thanks to the additional surface coating, aluminum is more resistant to environmental factors.

Source kertas.yola.access.ly

Made from PVC. This material is lightweight and is not afraid of prolonged exposure to moisture and sunlight. In addition to this, PVC is inexpensive and has a high durability.

Source dom-krovli198.ru

Counts the best material for filing the overhangs of the roof frame. This is due to high levels of resistance to environmental factors, ease of installation, and low price. Perforated parts allow air to pass under the material and prevent mold from forming on the wooden roof frame.

Source klub-masterov.ru

On our website you can get acquainted with the most . In the filters you can set the desired direction, the presence of gas, water, electricity and other communications.

Previously, wooden lining was considered the most popular material for lining overhangs. However, the beautiful appearance could not overshadow the disadvantage associated with moisture. With prolonged exposure, it quickly destroyed the wood and rendered the filing unusable.

Source makler.ua

On a note! In addition to siding, you must purchase fasteners. Self-tapping screws should be smaller in width than the holes located at the junctions of the decorative coating sheets.

Creating a wireframe

The amount of material will depend on what type of frame the home owner has chosen. There are two options for constructing the frame. It is necessary to make a choice before covering the roof overhangs with siding:

Horizontal box(perpendicular to the rafter system). The most popular option for filing overhangs. Suitable for multi-pitched roofs. To make it you need two boards and two bars. The boards must be secured at the end of the rafters and on the wall. The bars are placed between the boards so that siding panels can be secured to them using self-tapping screws.

Source stmagazin.com

Box in the direction of the rafters. This option is used on pitched roofs with a slight slope. On the inner sides of the rafters, bars are packed at the same level. Siding panels are fixed on top of them.

Source kakpostroit.su

Before starting further work, you need to check the frame using a building level. The difference between the location of parallel bars and boards will spoil the appearance of the hemmed areas.

Source stroyday.ru

Rules for working with siding

There are a number of rules that must be followed in order not to encounter problems during installation and further operation of overhang coverings:

Before attaching the gardening panels, there must be profiles installed around the entire perimeter.

When using plastic siding, the panels are cut 5 mm less required size. This creates free space in case the material expands when heated.

Mandatory maintain air exchange. To do this, you can alternate regular panels with perforated ones. The optimal interval is 1 m.

Self-tapping screws can't be screwed all the way. It is required to leave 1 mm of free space for the movement of material during expansion.

Before finishing begins, the rafter legs must be cut down one level. To check whether the cuts were made smoothly, you need to stretch the thread between the first and last legs of the rafters.

From the end side of the roof, rafters closed with wind bars. They prevent moisture from entering the space between the siding attached to the gable overhangs and the roof.

Wind bars Source montazh-saidinga.ru

By following these rules, you can avoid most problems in the future.

Carrying out basic work

The process of finishing the roof eaves with siding will depend on the chosen frame and the direction of arrangement of the decorative coating panels.

Location of siding under the roof (along the rafter line):

The first step after making the frame should be installation J-profiles. They are fixed on parallel frame elements (opposite each other).

Second phase - location of start and finish bars. They need to be leveled. The integrity of the coating and appearance will depend on this.

After installing the guides, it goes siding panel installation stage. Initially, they are measured in size and cut using a grinder or special scissors. The first sheet is inserted behind the J-profile. Next, it is fixed to the starting bar using self-tapping screws. They must be screwed into the mounting holes.

When all panels are installed and securely screwed to the frame, it is required close external areas using decorative corners.

Multidirectional joints between panels are covered with decorative strips.

Source kk.grupoquepasa.com

Horizontal location of eaves siding:

Selected material measured and cut by size.

Initially required secure the first plank profile level at the bottom or top of the overhang. All other panels begin to be fixed from the installed profile.

According to this system, the siding is fixed to the gable overhangs.

We also need to talk separately about how to properly install siding on a horizontal ledge on gable roofs:

Initially there should be finishing strip installed. It is shown in the figure as number 1.

Source obustroeno.com

To carry out any work on covering overhangs with siding, you will need three types of profiles - J-profile, starting and finishing strips.

It is advisable for the home owner to take into account the advice and recommendations of people who have already done the lining of overhangs with siding. These recommendations will answer many controversial questions and help in the work process:

Distance between fastening elements (screws, nails) along the length of the profile should not exceed 35 cm. A larger number of fasteners will lead to unnecessary costs, and due to fewer, sagging may occur.

From the moment of purchase until the start of installation work, siding is needed store under light-proof plastic film outdoors. Bars or boards are placed under the bottom sheets so that the material does not come into contact with the ground.

Important work carefully with locks located on profiles and panels. If too much pressure is applied, they may break.

To cut profiles and plates evenly grinder is used. Simple trimmings are made using metal scissors.

To create good ventilation, special ventilation grates. They will ensure air circulation between the siding, insulation (if any) and the roofing.

Source itsallfare.com

Before installing siding, the roof needs to be insulated.

Many builders miss the mark panel joints using sealant. There is no need to do this.

If the panels become dirty with dust or dirt, they can be cleaned using a damp cloth with the addition of a singing solution. Do not clean panel joints with metal brushes or strong chemicals.

Video description

In the video you can see the roof siding:

Conclusion

Lining the roof with siding is a way to protect the rafters and frame from environmental factors, as well as improve the appearance. It is important to choose the right material and carry out installation according to all requirements.

The roof is almost finished, but it doesn't look finished yet. There is very little left. You need to line the roof eaves with siding, and along with it the roof overhangs.
What material should you prefer for this type of work? How should all stages of the work be completed? In this article you will see answers to all your questions.

How much does siding installation cost?

Recently, home owners are increasingly choosing siding. This material can be used without any problems.
Of course, some use wood, metal profiles or other materials of their choice, but cornice siding is best suited for these purposes.
So:

Nowadays there is a large amount of siding available in markets and stores. Its cost varies. It all depends on what material it is made of.
So, for example, finishing the roof eaves with siding can cost any amount. The average price varies from 70 rubles per piece to 1300 rubles.
When ordering siding for eaves, you can give preference to any size in which it is produced.

Note. When starting a conversation about what kind of siding covering the eaves should be, it is necessary to take into account that in addition to the price of the material itself, there are other points. They are presented in the table below.

How much will it cost to install a cornice using siding?

What siding material should I choose for the cornice?

Before covering eaves with siding appeared on the building materials market, overhangs and eaves were hung mainly with clapboard or ordinary planed boards.

Note. But they had one significant drawback. Such materials rotted very quickly. This is why they lost their good appearance, and in the end homeowners had to paint them very often.

It should be remembered that not every siding is suitable for finishing the cornice; the cornice board should also be selected with special care:

For example, vinyl siding should not be used, because it is designed so that it can be used to cover the facade.

Conclusion. It will not look very good on eaves overhangs. Among other things, moisture (condensation) will accumulate under it in huge quantities, and this in turn will cause rotting of those elements of the roof that are made of wood.

It is for these same reasons that you should not purchase metal siding to cover the cornice with siding. It will be covered with rusty spots, and this does not look very nice.

In order to learn how to cover the cornice of a house with siding, you must first find out which material should be preferred. The industry has long been producing a special material called soffit.

The advantage of spotlights

This is the same eaves siding, but only much better. It can be made of metal and vinyl.
So:

Soffits, similar to double slats, are produced both in solid form and in perforated form.
For the latter, perforation can be performed either along the entire center of the part or as a whole part.
One-piece types of soffits are used to line ceilings in rooms not intended for residential use or cornices running along gables. And with the help of perforated materials, the cornices are hemmed under the rafter outlet.

Advice. Experts recommend covering the eaves with siding, where the material has a profile along its entire length, for roofs that do not have gaps for ventilation.

Such panels have a beautiful appearance, they are not at all difficult to cut and process. This means that cornices and pediments can be used for building facades without any problems.
Vinyl soffit is not very heavy, this material is durable, does not corrode, is inexpensive and easy to install.
The aluminum soffit is made from a single sheet, and its coating is in the form of a decorative protective layer.

Conclusion. Its advantage over a soffit made of vinyl is that it is quite durable, resistant to temperature changes and light from the sun. In addition, it has a wide color spectrum.

What you will need for self-cladding

If you intend to attach the siding along the eaves yourself, you will need to purchase the following tools and materials in advance:

Scissors for working with metal.
Electric saw.
Punch.
Knife.
A special purpose tool for dismantling panels.
Hammer.
Cornice boards.
Cornice siding.
Special profiles.
Start and end bars.
Gutter.
Hooks for gutters.

Making a box for roof overhangs:

In order for the eaves to be finished with siding, it is necessary to install a “box”. As for the frame, it is most often made from wooden blocks or profiles made of aluminum.

Advice. If it is necessary to hem the bottom using lining, the frame is made of wood. It is treated in advance with special liquids - antiseptics.

If the roof has an insufficient slope, then lining the eaves with siding should be carried out to the rafters themselves.

In order for everything to work out normally, special blocks are nailed to the bottom of the rafters for leveling.

The size of the section is 10 by 4 cm. This is done so that in the future there will be a horizontal plane.

Advice. Before this procedure, you need to tighten the cord, which should pass between the bars located on the edge. All remaining blocks will be nailed along this cord.

If the slope of the roof has a strong slope, then in this case finishing the roof eaves with siding will not do without a box consisting of two boards.
So:

One of these wooden parts is nailed to the bottom of the rafters. As for the second board, it is attached to the wall of the house, where the rafters protrude beyond its edges.
The part of the board that is below should have one horizontal level. Next, you should fill the transverse bars on these boards.

As for the overhangs on the pediment, either a wind board or the ends of the blocks are sewn onto them (you can take sheathing boards for this purpose).

In order for the cornice to be correctly installed with siding, it is necessary to nail a board to the wall of the house, which should run parallel to the slope. You should know that the boards, inside and outside, should be on the wall of the house, as if in a single plane.

Note. This is necessary so that an even overhang of the cornice can be achieved.

The horizontal overhang of the font, which serves to separate the attic from the end wall, must have an inclined overhang.

This is necessary so that the wall of the house is protected from the effects of precipitation, which is then converted into water. It will be best if you purchase materials for this purpose that are resistant to moisture.

Advice. Sheathing the roof with siding is carried out after all the work on insulating the facade has been completed.

Details for working with soffit

Instructions for installing this type of siding begin with the installation of parallel profiles.
Let's take a closer look:

One of these parts should be attached to the house, and the second to the lower plane of the chamfer (wind board).

The cornice siding (soffit) itself will be inserted directly into these profiles. Depending on the configuration of the chamfer on the building, choose the option of profiles for siding (soffit) and chamfer.

Factories produce two types of profiles - J and F. The receiving profiles are nailed every time after 3 dm or 4 dm.

Before finishing the cornice with siding, you need to install a J profile that will run along the frame board. It must be remembered that it must be one level with the edge located below the chamfer. After all this, you need to insert a pre-cut soffit according to the size.

Note. To install a siding cornice, you need to remember one feature. It is installed before work on the entire roof covering begins. After this, special hooks are installed that will support the gutters for receiving water.

This strip will serve to protect the wall of your home from accidental water ingress from the gutters. In addition, this is a very beautiful decorative element. The plank is secured to the rafters using self-tapping screws, which are matched to the main shade of the plank.

In order to ensure ventilation when covering the eaves of a house with siding, it is necessary to leave a certain amount of gaps of approximately 30 or 50 mm. They should be between the plank and the wall around the perimeter of the entire house.
For more detailed information, we suggest watching the video in this article.

This type of siding has one feature. It can change its size during temperature changes. Size variations vary, but generally they are almost 1 cm.
Rules when working with this siding:

The material should be stored in places where the temperature will be less than 60 degrees Celsius in the open air.

The mounted panels must have freedom of movement in a horizontal direction.

To cover the cornice with siding, you do not need to put in a lot of effort to secure the panels in the locks.

The nails should be driven into the very center of the hole.

In no case should you hammer the nail heads into the siding surface; to do this, you need to apply a little effort to secure them in the locks.

In order for the correct filing of eaves overhangs with siding to be carried out, the nails must be driven into the center of the hole

The nails do not need to be buried completely into the siding. It is best if you leave a small gap between the nail and the soffit panel. This gap should be approximately 1 mm.

There is no need to apply sealant between outside and inside corners and panels, nor between panels and the J-profile.

Attention! There is no need to drive nails directly into the siding. This is fraught with the fact that subsequently the soffit will be completely covered with cracks and the vinyl panel will begin to collapse

Before covering the cornice with siding, you need to take care of the wood. It should be dry.

Siding for attaching to vinyl eaves is more practical than other materials.
During the operational period it is not whimsical:

To keep your home looking beautiful and tidy, your siding needs to be washed from time to time. It can be perfectly cleaned with ordinary water.

If the dirt is strong enough, take any of the commercially available detergents.

Be sure to use a rag or soft-bristled brush to remove dirt. In order to clean siding, experts do not recommend cleaning abrasive substances that contain chlorine or organic solvents.

After installation roofing structure carry out filing of roof overhangs. Finishing the roof overhangs is an important stage in the construction of the roof, since ventilation and gutters are installed simultaneously with the filing of the overhangs. Filing overhangs is a mandatory stage of work, regardless of the type of roof. When filing overhangs flat and pitched roof Only the technology of finishing the overhangs varies.

Purpose of the binder

Proper roofing ensures the creation of a comfortable indoor microclimate, increases the energy efficiency of the structure, protects the thermal insulation material and elements of the roofing system from the negative effects of external destructive factors (precipitation, wind, temperature changes, infrared radiation).

Hemming the overhangs prevents birds and insects from entering the under-roof space and creates an attractive and complete appearance of the entire structure as a whole.

Materials

Eaves overhangs are hemmed using various materials: lining, corrugated board, siding, soffits and others, each of which has certain specific properties.

Most often, corrugated sheeting, lining, siding or soffits are used for finishing overhangs.

Profiled sheeting. It is a corrugated steel sheet with a galvanized coating. To protect the metal from corrosion, the material is coated with a protective polymer coating on top. Corrugated sheeting is lightweight and comes in a variety of colors, which allows it to be used for filing overhangs and helps to embody the original design solutions. Installation of corrugated sheeting on roof overhangs is complicated by the need to cut the sheet to the required size, and also by the fact that the cut points must be additionally protected to prevent metal corrosion.

Lining. The material is used for finishing the eaves of buildings built of wood, since it is the wooden lining that looks the most organic and gives the structure completeness. Wooden lining should be additionally treated with antiseptic deep penetration primers to protect the material from the negative effects of moisture and biological decomposition. To ensure ventilation of the under-roof space, ventilation gaps should be left between the slats of the material, allowing air to penetrate into the under-roof space over the entire area of its overhangs. Plastic lining is considered the most economical option for finishing roof overhangs. The disadvantages of finishing with plastic lining include the need for additional ventilation holes, which spoil the appearance of the structure.

Siding. Siding made of polyvinyl chloride is used for filing overhangs. Special U-shaped panels are available for sale, designed for finishing corners, roof overhangs and ventilation grilles. (types and forms of siding are presented)

Soffits– these are special profiled panels made of polyvinyl chloride, designed for lining overhangs. The soffit is lightweight and sufficiently rigid to provide the structure with the necessary wind protection and strength. Ventilation of the under-roof space is ensured by the presence of special ventilation holes on one of the waves of the finishing material.

Regardless of the roof configuration, there are two methods of filing its overhangs: along the rafter line and by installing a horizontal box.

When filing overhangs along the rafter line, it requires that the rafters of the roofing system have a flat surface. The box is created by installing boards to the rafters of the roofing system. The box obtained in this way will perform the functions load-bearing frame for further finishing of roof overhangs.

The second option involves installing a horizontal box using two boards. The first board is mounted to the bottom of the rafter system, the second - to the wall of the structure, in the place where the roof rafters approach it.

Important! You should start filing the roof overhangs only after completing the thermal insulation of the walls of the structure. If you hem the overhangs and only then begin thermal insulation work, then top part the walls of the structure will remain “cold”, which will significantly affect the energy efficiency of the structure.

The rafters of the roofing system must also be pre-prepared: treated with special protective impregnations, cut so that they run parallel to the wall of the building. The cutting distance of the rafters from the wall should be the same along the entire perimeter of the structure, since otherwise, after filing the overhangs and installing the wind strip, all the irregularities will be noticeable.

Lining roof eaves with siding

When filing with siding, the sheathing is replaced by a mounted box along the entire rafter line. In addition to U-shaped siding panels, components such as external and internal corners and profiles are used.

Installation profiles are mounted along the edges, into which the siding panels are inserted. Siding is installed sequentially along the entire length of the cornice.

Fasten finishing material using nail umbrellas, the head of which should not tightly press the finishing material to the sheathing. It is necessary to leave a temperature gap that will compensate for the expansion of the finishing material.

To compensate for the thermal expansion of siding panels, there should be a play of 6-10 mm between the corner profile and the finishing material.

Covering roof overhangs with soffit

After creating the horizontal box, they begin installing the soffits. Both J- and F-profiles are used for cladding. After measuring the width of the cornice, the finishing material is cut. The length of the soffit should be 6 mm less than the measured width of the cornice.

The soffits are inserted into the profile, sequentially adding plates along the entire perimeter of the roof overhang.

As you approach the corner, the length of the spotlights should gradually decrease. To join the two sides in the corner, the edge of the panel must be filed at an angle of 45 degrees.

Lining

The lining is attached to a previously created horizontal box. The technology for fastening wooden lining is quite simple: the material is stuffed between two guides of the created frame. To fasten the lining, you can use umbrella nails or galvanized self-tapping screws. The ends of the wooden lining should be treated with special protective compounds.

When finishing roof overhangs with plastic lining, special ventilation holes should be installed.

To install plastic lining, starting profiles are installed into the grooves of which plates of finishing material are inserted.

The plastic lining is fastened using galvanized screws or nails with an enlarged head.

Regardless of the chosen finishing material, the lining of the roof overhangs should be done with high quality, since the energy efficiency and durability of the structure depend on this. If the technology is not followed, moisture can penetrate into the under-roof space and destroy the thermal insulation layer.

Need to know! If, when filing overhangs, you do not ensure sufficient ventilation of the under-roof space, then water vapor will not be able to escape outside and condensation will accumulate both in the heat-insulating layer itself and on the elements of the roof structure, leading to its destruction.

Price of work

The price of roof overhang lining is not affected by the material and lining method you choose. The cost of work can be calculated per square or linear meter. On average, the cost of lining roof overhangs is square meter is 420 - 500 rubles.

Video instructions for proper installation of roof overhangs

Sheathing the gables is the final stage of exterior finishing of the house. By this time, the master should no longer have any questions about working with the main finishing material: siding. Vinyl and metal installations have a lot in common. But still, working with each of them has its own nuances.

There are also some peculiarities in the cladding of the pediment, that part of the house that is located between the roof slopes. It (the pediment) can be either small in height or be a component of a full second floor. The latter also applies to buildings with a residential attic. Provence style houses look most comfortable. Therefore, most homeowners choose this method of exterior decoration of their home.

The main features of the Provence architectural style are light colors, simplicity and clarity of lines, and a friendly family atmosphere. To decorate such a house, they choose materials that are affordable in price and of impeccable quality. Siding fully meets these criteria. It is durable and has all the necessary characteristics to ensure proper protection of the building walls.

For finishing in Provence style, vinyl siding would be the best choice. Unlike metal, it is able to bring the coziness, simplicity and discreetness necessary for this design direction to the appearance of the building. At the same time, a house covered with vinyl siding looks modern and well-maintained.

The upper part of the building, the pediment, is visible from afar. It is she who creates the first impression of the house and its owners. Therefore, this stage of finishing work must be performed as carefully as possible, guided by detailed step by step instructions based on the experience and recommendations of specialists.

Materials required for gable siding

An important point in finishing works any type - choice of basic material and components. There is one immutable rule, the implementation of which eliminates many troubles during installation. It says: all finishing elements must be purchased from one manufacturer.

Vinyl siding "Alta-Profile"

In this case, the buyer receives several advantages:

all parts will be adjusted to the millimeter;
it becomes possible to choose the most successful color scheme;
if there is a shortage of material, it can be purchased without fear of significant differences in color shades.

There is one more important point to be aware of when choosing a material. The facing structure must include exactly those elements recommended by the manufacturer. Replacing with equivalent parts, but of a different type, will certainly introduce dissonance into the appearance of the building and increase the labor intensity and complexity of installation.

Thus, it is not recommended to combine vinyl and metal siding or additional elements of these materials in gable cladding. The point is not only in the appearance that does not comply with the rules of aesthetics, but also in the different coefficient of thermal expansion of these products. A finish that combines metal and vinyl will not be durable. There is a high risk of cracks appearing in vinyl siding, which will change its geometric shape under the influence of expansion and contraction of metal parts.

Additional elements for gable cladding

The use of correctly selected components during installation will allow you to obtain a high-quality facing structure that is not afraid of strong winds, frosts, or high humidity. To cover the gable with siding, you will need to buy several types of additional elements. Products intended for finishing window openings are needed if there are windows on the pediment.

product name	Purpose and features
	Installed first, it is a long narrow sheet to which the lower edge of the first panel is attached.
	Drains water from the base of the building.
	A detail that allows you to close the joints between horizontally laid siding panels and soffits provides an aesthetically pleasing appearance to the joints.
	Designed for finishing window openings whose width is less than 14 cm. It has a rather complex profile, including elements of a slope and a platband.
	Designed for finishing window and door openings with a slope width of more than 14 cm.
	Installed around the perimeter of window and door openings, any vertical and horizontal cuts, junctions along the inclined line of the wall and roof, for filing and fastening soffits.
	It is used for covering window openings located on the same plane as the walls of the building.
	Designed to cover and hold the ends of siding panels on the internal and external corners of the house. When covering gables, they are used if the area to be finished has a complex topography: protrusions and niches relative to the plane of the walls.
	It is an element with which the installation of the facing structure is completed. Installed above the last, top panel of the trim. When finishing the pediment, it is necessary if the roof slope has a complex shape, including horizontal sections.
	These thin strips are necessary for joining different finishing elements together and masking gaps.
	Panels designed for lining the inside of the roof overhang.
	Provides protection attic space from wind blowing.

When selecting a set of additional elements necessary for cladding a pediment, a novice craftsman will certainly encounter one feature: a variety of names. This can cause confusion and misunderstandings. It's actually simple. Manufacturers, wanting to distinguish their products from the general mass of similar products, give them their own name.

For example, the starting bar is also called the “starting bar.” J-Trim - “J-shaped profile” or “J-profile”. The finishing strip is a “fitting profile”. The same features are present in the names of other additional elements.

In order to correctly navigate this diversity, you must first of all pay attention to the profile of the product. For elements of the same purpose, it is always the same, with the exception of small nuances introduced by the manufacturer to emphasize the features of their products.

This point is extremely important to take into account. Purchase of components different brands will inevitably cause a lot of problems during installation, regardless of the complexity of the topography of the pediments and the presence or absence of window openings.

Correct calculation of the amount of materials for covering the gable with siding

When determining the amount of siding to cover the walls of a house, it is enough to perform two types of measurements: find the total length and height of all walls. Then the area of the building is calculated and the result is divided by the area of one unit of finishing material. In this way, an indicator of the required number of panels is obtained.

In the case of gables, everything is much more complicated, since these building elements can have a complex architectural form. But in most cases there are two types:

have the shape of a regular triangle;
have a trapezoidal shape.

Regardless of the type of structure, before starting measurements and calculations, you need to find out what the area of one siding panel is. To do this, its length is multiplied by its width.

Calculation example.

On average, vinyl siding panels are 3.05 m long and 24 cm wide. different manufacturers you can find lamellas with a width of 17.9 cm, 20.5 cm, 23.2 cm, 25.6 cm. We arm ourselves with a calculator and multiply 3.05 m x 0.24 m. We get 0.732 m2. This is the area of one siding panel.

Next you need to perform a series of measurements. To do this you will need a tape measure, paper and a pencil. It is most convenient to take measurements using modern laser tape measures. These instruments are also called "laser rangefinders". The principle of working with them is simple: you need to install a tape measure at the starting point of measurement and direct the beam to the point the distance to which you want to measure. Good feedback about inexpensive but high-quality devices LEICA Disto D2 and Mettro CONDTROL 60.

Determining the number of siding panels for triangular gables

Measure the base (lower horizontal line) of the triangular pediment. They get an “A” rating.
Measure the height: project the vertex of the triangle onto the base and measure the distance between these two points. They get a “B” score.
Find the area of the pediment using the following formula: ½ A x B.
Divide the area of the gable by the area of one siding panel. A number is obtained indicating the number of panels required for cladding. All calculations are performed in m2.

Calculation example.

The base of the pediment is 3.45 m. Height is 3.8 m. The area of one panel is 0.732 m2.

We calculate the area of the triangular pediment: ½ x 3.45 m x 3.8 m = 6.55 m2.
We calculate the required number of panels: 6.55 m2: 0.732 m2 = 8.948. Rounding up, we get 89.5. This is the number of siding panels required to cover a gable that is 3.45 m long and 3.8 m high.

Determining the number of siding panels for trapezoidal gables

Measure the length of the pediment base (b).
Measure the length of the upper horizontal line of the roof (a).
Measure the height of the pediment: project the break point of the roof onto the base and calculate the distance between these two points (h).
Calculate the area of the trapezoid using the formula: ½ x (a+b) x h.
Divide the resulting figure by the area of one panel.

Calculation example:

b = 6 m;
a = 3 m;
h = 1.8 m.

½ x (6+3) x 1.8 = 8.1 m2

8.1 m2: 0.732 m2 = 11.06

We find out that 110.6 siding panels are needed to cover a trapezoidal pediment of these sizes.

Determining the number of siding panels for gables with complex architectural shapes

In order to find out the material consumption for finishing complex gables with windows, protrusions and height differences, it is necessary to perform a series of measurements for each structural element.

First of all, find out the area of the window openings. To do this, measure their length and height.
After which these indicators are multiplied.
Record the resulting value.
Do the same with all the windows on the pediment.
The final stage is the summation of the obtained indicators. It will be total area all windows.

To perform the next stage of calculations, you will need to draw an impromptu drawing of the pediment on a piece of paper. Next, you need to break its complex shape into several simple ones: triangles and rectangles. After which they begin to take measurements of each individual figure. All obtained indicators are recorded in the drawing.

The next stage is calculating the area of the pediment. Since it consists of several simple shapes, the first step is to determine the area of each of them. After this, the obtained values are summed up. The required indicator is obtained: the area of the pediment of a complex shape.

Next, you need to subtract from this figure the total area of window openings obtained at the first stage of work. As a result, the area to be covered with siding will be found. After which it will be easy to calculate the number of panels required to complete this task. The process is similar to that described in the sections on triangular and trapezoidal gables.

Determining the amount of materials for covering eaves and gable overhangs

An overhang is a part of the roof that protrudes beyond the plane of the walls of the house. The horizontal part of these projections is called the “eave overhang.” Vertical – “pedimental”. Both of them are covered with soffits. The ends are covered with J-straps and/or drip edges. To determine the required amount of materials, you need to perform several tasks sequentially:

measure the length of the eaves overhangs;
measure the width of the eaves overhangs (the part that protrudes beyond the pediment);
all indicators obtained as a result of measurements must be converted into linear meters;
Next, you need to find the total area of the eaves overhangs, alternately calculating the area of each protrusion;
A similar procedure is performed for gable overhangs.

As a result, the total area of the roof overhangs to be covered with soffits will be found. Next, find out the area of one soffit panel and the length of the J-profile in the set of components of the selected brand of finishing material. By analogy with previous calculations, the required amount of material for finishing work is found.

Rules and features of connections of additional elements for gable cladding

The components are necessary to ensure ease of installation of siding panels and to give the home a finished look. If the pediment has a complex architectural form, for the cladding of which the standard range of additional elements is not enough, the missing parts can be ordered. All manufacturers of these materials offer the service of manufacturing panels and components according to customer sketches and dimensions.

Any of the additional siding elements is equipped with a perforated strip located on one side of the product. Otherwise, this element is called a “nail strip”. It is intended for fixing fittings to the load-bearing surface.

To connect finishing elements to each other, so-called “locks” are used: shaped protrusions on the side of the products that is opposite to the perforated strip. Locks of different elements have different shapes. This is necessary in order to ensure the highest quality possible connection of the finishing panels.

So, when installing siding, they achieve a characteristic click, signaling that the two parts have been correctly connected. When facing window and door openings, another method of joining components is used: the protrusions of one are inserted into the corresponding recesses of the other. When performing these works there is no need for the most tight joining.

Proper installation of siding requires the implementation of several simple but mandatory rules.

When attaching panels and components to the load-bearing surface, you should try to screw the screws into the middle of the holes in the nail strip.
You cannot tighten the panels with self-tapping screws so that they are in maximum contact with the edge of the sheathing. According to the installation rules, there should be a small gap of at least 1 mm wide, but not more than 1.5 mm, between the screw head and the nail strip. This requirement is related to the need to ensure the material “free movement” under the influence of expansion and compression forces.
All products are attached to the walls only through holes in the nail strip.
When installing adjacent elements, it is necessary to trim the nail strip of one of them so that a gap of at least 5 mm wide is formed.
Galvanized fasteners are used to install vinyl and metal siding.

Tools needed for gable siding

Since the pediment is the upper part of the building, the work will have to be done at height. Therefore, first of all, you need to take care of the availability of durable stairs. At a minimum, two are needed, as this will eliminate the constant movement of one staircase from one corner of the house to another. The best option is to install walkways along which you can move when performing work.

It is important to choose the most convenient tool for cutting siding. There are three options for completing this task:

Prices for popular models of jigsaws

Jigsaw

All these tools allow you to get an even cut without nicks. Each master chooses for himself the method of working with the material that is most convenient and accessible to him.

To mark the panels and components you will need a simple pencil and a metal square. A tape measure is required to take measurements. One of the most necessary tools is a construction bubble level. Experts recommend choosing a professional model, since with its help you can most accurately determine the horizontal and vertical.

The following auxiliary tools can be prepared:

plumb line;
pliers;
hammer;
rubber or wooden mallet;
marker.

For screwing in galvanized self-tapping screws, a screwdriver is most convenient. batteries. It is not “tied” to the electrical network, so there is no need for various kinds of carriers and wires. The best choice is a screwdriver with two replaceable batteries. Having an additional one will allow you to avoid interruptions in work necessary to recharge a dead battery.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

How to properly mount a frame under siding

Siding of any brand and of any material (asbestos cement, metal or vinyl) cannot be installed directly on walls. First you need to prepare the frame, which is otherwise called the “sheathing”. This can be done using two types of materials: wooden blocks or metal profiles, which are intended for installing drywall.

This is not to say that one of these materials is better than the other. Both of them are suitable for creating a strong and durable frame. But wood still has one drawback: it requires careful drying. Otherwise, the sheathing will certainly move and deformation of the facing structure is possible. The risk of this problem occurring is especially high when working with flexible vinyl siding.

The cross-section of the wooden blocks should resemble the cross-section of a metal profile. The following sizes are suitable: 30/40 mm, 35/45 mm, 40/40 mm, 45/45 mm, 40/50 mm, 40/60 mm, etc. Most often, metal profile PP 60/27 is chosen for the construction of the frame. It, like wooden blocks, will serve as load-bearing posts.

In addition to the main elements of this design, you will need additional ones: suspensions. These are special thin plates with perforations that are used to align the frame posts in one plane. This way you get perfectly smooth vertical walls.

The hangers are attached to the load-bearing surface through a hole located in the middle of the plate. Then the perforated strips are folded back and the frame post is inserted between them. Fastening is carried out using small self-tapping screws SMM 3.5/51. Other fasteners suitable for this purpose may be used. To construct a frame made of wooden blocks, you need wood screws 1.5-2.5 cm long.

Rules for installing a frame under siding

The hangers are installed so that the step between them does not exceed 60 cm.
The upper and lower hangers should be no further than 15 cm from the edge of the wall and no closer than 5 cm.
If wooden blocks are used, their preparation is necessary: high-quality drying and coating with an ogebioprotective solution.
The pitch between the supporting frame posts must correspond to the width of the insulation being laid. Optimal – 50-60 cm.
For brick surfaces, you will need to pre-drill holes for hangers. First, they put the appropriate marks on the wall, after which they complete the task using a drill and a drill bit with pobedite.

Preparatory work

Beginning of work on the installation of the sheathing - preparing the gable and roof overhangs.

Step 1. First of all, remove the old finishing material: wind boards, flashings, cladding. To perform this task, use any convenient tools: a pry bar, a hammer, pliers.

Step 2. The roofing material is trimmed flush with the gable overhangs. Select tools that match the roofing material. If it is a metal tile, use a grinder with a metal circle. If it is slate, you will need a hammer, a grinder with a stone disc, and wire cutters. If uneven protrusions or chips remain after trimming, do not worry: they will subsequently be covered with finishing elements: drip edges.

Step 3. They do everything necessary to level the walls and overhangs: they remove or cut down all those protruding parts that can be removed without catastrophic consequences for the building.

Pediment before finishing - photo

Pediment plane beating

Step 1: Install the Bottom Rail

To determine the plane of the skin, a laser level is most convenient. This device is installed at the lowest point of one of the corners of the pediment and directs the beam to the opposite side. It is important to install the device so that the new plane is away from load-bearing wall no less than 4 cm. When turning on the device, make marks at the points pointed at by the laser.

In order to build a new plane using bars and available tools, proceed as follows:

Step 2: Locate the Top Rail

Regardless of whether the pediment is triangular or trapezoidal, installation of the top rail begins by trimming its ends at an angle of 45°. For this they use miter saw, jigsaw or hacksaw.

Next, you need to find the exact location to install the upper guide. To perform this task, you will need a plumb line on a thread of such length that it is sufficient to contact the load with the lower guide. If the height of the pediment is significant, you need to find an assistant. This person will be at the bottom guide and determine if the plumb line has made contact with it.

Sequencing:

from the point of intersection of the ridge beam with the pediment wall, measure a distance equal to the width of the indentation from the wall of the lower guide (from the wall to the outer plane of the bars);
put a mark with a marker;
apply a thread to this point, on which a plumb line is attached;
ask the assistant whether the load has come into contact with the outer plane of the lower guide;
gradually moving the thread, find the point at which the plumb line will show that the vertical has been found;
make the appropriate marks with a marker.

If the pediment has a trapezoidal shape, this work is performed twice, at each intersection of the roof beams with the wall.

Step 3: Installing the Top Rail

Self-tapping screws are screwed into bars with ends cut at an angle of 45° so that their tips protrude from the back side of the bar by 5-7 mm. At the points found using a plumb line, holes are drilled and plastic dowels are installed in them. After which the upper guide is fixed. If necessary, the ridge beam is hemmed with a wooden block.

Step 4. Installing the side rails

Along the lines of the roof slope, it is necessary to install side guides made of the same material as those already fixed. To do this, you will need to file or trim the ends of the bars. Since the angle of the roof slope can be any, it is impossible to give recommendations regarding the cutting angle of the bars. This parameter is determined experimentally by applying wooden dies to the upper and lower guides.

Next, perform the same actions as in the previous stages: drill holes in the bars and screw self-tapping screws into them. Then the side guides are attached to the roof overhangs and to the upper and lower guides. The finished outline of the sheathing must be in the same vertical plane.

Installation of frame under siding

Step 1. Marking for hangers

Based on the above rules for installing sheathing, mark the pediment for the installation of hangers. To complete this work you will need a plumb line, tape measure and marker.

From the corner point at which the lower guide and the roof overhang intersect, a distance selected depending on the width of the insulation is retreated. If you do not plan to insulate the pediment, then the optimal step is 40-60 cm.
Place a mark on the bottom guide with a marker.
A thread with a plumb line is applied to the side guide located nearby and the point of contact of the load with the mark on the bottom guide is found.
Project the line of the thread onto the wall and mark along it with a marker, taking into account that the top and bottom are no closer than 5 cm to the wooden (metal) contour of the sheathing. The step between intermediate points is 50-60 cm.
From the mark on the bottom guide, measure 40-60 cm towards the opposite corner of the house and perform a similar sequence of work: using a plumb line, find the vertical and mark it with a marker along this line.
In this way, the entire area of the pediment is marked.

If there are window or door openings, markings are carried out taking into account that the hangers should be located along the perimeter of these gable elements, but taking into account the desired slope angle. This will allow you to make high-quality lining of the openings.

Step 2. Preparing holes for mounting hangers

Prices for popular hammer drill models

Hammers

At this stage of constructing the frame for the siding, it is necessary to drill holes with which the hangers will be attached to the pediment. The choice of materials and tools depends on what the pediment is built from. If it is a brick, you will need a drill (optimally with a hammer drill mode), a drill bit with pobedit, a dowel and nails. If it is wood, foam block or gas block, a screwdriver and self-tapping screws are enough.

Step 3. Installation of hangers

The hangers are fastened using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws 3.5-4.5 cm long with a flat, wide head. Each metal strip is applied to the wall so that it (the strip) is horizontal. There is an oblong hole in the central part of the suspension. Its middle is aligned with the mark on the pediment. Screw in the self-tapping screw and attach the metal strip to the wall.

Step 4. Installation of supporting frame posts

Step 5. Installation of roof overhang sheathing

In order to cover the inner plane of the roof overhangs, they must be hemmed along the lines of the slopes with 3-4 cm thick bars. Wooden slats are attached to the inner corner formed by the junction of the overhang with the pediment, and along the outer, opposite corner, line of the overhangs.

Since the soffits are bending-resistant and light in weight, a distance of up to 80 cm between the bars is permissible. But overhangs of this width are quite rare. At this stage of work, it is necessary to ensure that the outer ends of the sheathing form an even line that follows the cut of the roof slope.

Prices for different types of bars

Covering window and door openings

There are several options for finishing window and door openings. The choice of the optimal method depends on whether installation of ebb and flows is required, and on the characteristics of the components of a particular manufacturer. But the basic principles for installing finishing elements are the same for all types of siding.

Windows on gables are most often located in the same plane as the wall. Therefore, installation of ebbs and slopes is not required. The width of the side panel of the window strip is quite enough for covering shallow openings. To cover them, you need to perform several stages of work sequentially.

Step 1. Taking measurements

A tape measure is used to take measurements. The obtained indicators are recorded on a piece of paper. You need to know the following parameters:

the height of the inner line of the opening;
the height of the external line of the opening;
depth of the opening (width of the slope);
opening bevel angle.

Step 2. Preparation of finishing elements

In accordance with the obtained dimensions, the window strip and J-profile are cut. The most difficult task is to correctly cut out all the protrusions that, when joining two near-window strips, form the internal and external corners of the slopes.

The profile of these additional elements (near-window strips) is quite complex, so you will have to repeatedly trim one or another part of the ends after fitting. It is recommended to saw off the near-window strip from a single piece of wood slightly larger than the height of the opening. After obtaining a high-quality cut of the end, the panel can be shortened.

Step 3. Installation of the J-profile

The J-profile is attached around the perimeter of the window so that the nail strips are on the plane of the slopes. For fixation, self-tapping screws are used, which are screwed into the bars (metal profiles) of the sheathing.

Step 4. Installation of the window strip

The near-window strip is installed so that its figured protrusion covers external corner slope The flat part of the panel is inserted into the J-profile. The nail strips of the window profile are attached to the sheathing. The ends of the siding panels will be inserted into the recesses of these additional elements, which will cover all the fastening points.

Framing arched and round windows

Covering the gable with siding

The sequence of actions for installing siding depends on several factors. Firstly, you need to consider whether the complex of work will be carried out independently or with the assistance of assistants. Secondly, such a point as the presence of a lower slope (low tide) at the pediment is important. If it is not there, cladding work on the pediment is a continuation of finishing the wall of the house with siding. In this case, installation of the starting bar is not necessary.

If the pediment has a lower slope and the work is carried out alone, it is recommended to do a little preparation before starting the installation of the facing structure. This will reduce the labor intensity of fastening long and flexible panels of the starting bar, since there will be no one to hold its second end.

If the situation is this, self-tapping screws are screwed halfway into the lower outer end of the lower frame guide so that they are at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. You will need to lay a starting bar on them. After this, it can be fixed without much difficulty.

Siding prices

Sequence of siding installation work

Step 1. Installation of the finishing strip

Along the line of the roof slope, a finishing strip is attached to the side rails. Both lines of these profiles will intersect at the top corner point of the triangular pediment. Therefore, the ends of each plank must be cut at an angle so that a beautiful, even joint is obtained.

If the pediment has a trapezoidal shape, the finishing strips are installed only along the side rails, leaving the top free.

Step 2. Preparing to fix the starting bar

If the bottom guide of the frame is not perfectly level, tighten the thread before installing the starting profile. It will serve as a guide for setting the starting bar. The thread must be stretched strictly horizontally. This is achieved using a building level.

Step 3. Attaching the starting bar

The initial strip is laid on a thread and one end of this additional element is inserted into the adjacent finishing strip. There should be a distance of 2-3 mm between these finishing details. This will provide the damping gap necessary to compensate for the “movement” of the slats when they are heated or cooled.

Next, they begin to attach the starting profile through the holes in its nail strip. Self-tapping screws are used, which are screwed in so that the strip moves freely horizontally within the perforation hole. But it was firmly attached.

The next starting profile is installed at a distance of 5-6 mm from the first. In this way they move along the pediment line. The last strip is cut using metal scissors, slightly bent towards you and the end is inserted into the finishing strip.

Step 2. Installation of the first siding panel

At the bottom of each siding panel there is a U-shaped bend, which is used to connect the two slats. There is a recess on the starting strip into which you need to insert the siding panel. After which it is slightly pulled up and secured through the holes in the nail strip with self-tapping screws to the frame posts.

In this work, it is important to follow one rule: never pull up the siding so that it is in maximum contact with the underlying panel. It is necessary to leave a gap of 2-3 mm wide between them.

The ends of the siding panels must be inserted into the side finishing strips. The panels are connected horizontally either overlapping or using an H-shaped profile.

Step 3. Further installation of siding

Since for each line of panels you will have to make two cuts at the ends at a certain angle, it is recommended to make templates for each roof slope. They (templates) can be made from sections of panels, one edge of which must be cut at an angle so that it corresponds to the slope line of one of the roof slopes.

Under the window everything is about the same - the topmost strip is cut to size and simply snapped onto the lower siding lock

Subsequently, the templates are laid on the panels, a line is drawn along them, and the unnecessary part of the siding end is sawed off along it. Having reached the top point of the triangular-shaped gable, it is permissible to fasten the top panel through the siding, and not through the perforations.

The only time you can attach a siding panel directly through the vinyl is the last panel

If the pediment is trapezoidal, a finishing strip is attached to the top guide of the frame. Then the last siding panel is installed. It may need pruning.

Installation of spotlights

Modern soffit systems consist of 4 elements:

soffit panel with perforation;
soffit panel without perforation;
J-profile (some manufacturers call this product a “finish strip”);
connecting strip.

Step 1. Installation of the J-profile

The J-profile is necessary for closing the ends and holding the soffits. This additional element is attached in the same way as siding panels: through perforations. J-straps must be located on both sides of the soffits, so they are attached to both the inner corner formed by the roof overhang and the gable wall, and to the outer edge of the roof.

Two J-profiles are connected to each other by cutting off 2-2.5 cm of the mounting (perforated) part of one of the planks. After which the planks are brought into each other. At the corner points of the overhangs, the J-profile is connected end-to-end.

Step 2. Installation of spotlights

Prices for different types of spotlights

Roof soffits

Soffits are quite flexible and lightweight, so their installation is simple. The panel is slightly bent downward and both ends are inserted into the recesses in the J-planks. Further actions depend on the configuration of the roof overhangs and the topography of the pediment.

If it is triangular in shape, install the soffits and fasten them in the same way as was used when installing the siding panels. When the two spotlights are joined correctly, a characteristic click should be heard. Thanks to the locks, the panels are firmly connected to each other. But here, too, you need to follow the same rule as when installing siding: leave a gap of 2-3 mm wide between the finishing elements.

If the pediment is trapezoidal or more complex in shape, connecting strips are attached at the points of kinks and turns. With their help, soffit lines are joined together. The final stage of work is the installation of drip pipes. They are attached to the outer edge of the roof slopes.