Remontant strawberries in autumn preparation. Basic rules for planting and caring for remontant strawberries in open ground

Main characteristics of remontant strawberries

It is always necessary to mulch;

We should not forget that the NSD strawberry variety ages very quickly. This occurs due to the endless birth of new flowers and berries throughout the season, from summer until almost frost. Due to this, the second year of the plant’s life bears smaller fruits. To avoid such a situation, you should follow certain rules:

Accordingly, you can find professional terms applied to strawberry varieties such as:

In some regions, it is advisable to postpone pruning of fruit-bearing shoots to early spring. Firstly, spring pruning is attractive for areas with warm winters, where after fruiting has finished, the shoots can vegetate for a long time and accumulate nutrients for next year’s harvest.

In recent years, a number of new large-fruited raspberry varieties have appeared, including both remontant and non-remontant. For remontant raspberries, the main harvest is obtained from young summer shoots, which are completely cut out after fruiting. It turns out that the raspberry tree will spend the winter without... raspberries.

There are many different varieties of remontant strawberries, each with its own pros and cons. The varieties Mitse Nova, White Dream, Arapahoe, Irma, Red Rich, Lyubasha (Lyubava), Tribute, Geneva, Tristar, Superfection, Ozark Beauty and Fort Laremi are considered popular among gardeners.

Features of growing remontant strawberries

Don't forget to care for the soil - it needs to be regularly limed if the acidity is below the recommended level. It is advisable to apply lime a couple of years before strawberries are planted in this area. If this is done immediately before planting, it may impair the survival rate of the plants. Lime should be applied to the depth of the soil layer that is being processed.

Proper care for this variety of strawberries should include mulching and loosening the soil. There is no need for loosening once the mulch is applied. It is also advisable to water the beds abundantly and often. Varieties of large-fruited strawberries derive their strength for harvest from watering.

in July-August, after harvesting, it is necessary to repeat the procedures for planting seedlings. The easiest way would be to use ready-made tendrils rather than seeds;

Remontant strawberries have become widespread recently; many are trying to plant them on their plot. But not everyone knows how to plant and care for this delicate plant. It is worth considering that it has some differences compared to ordinary strawberries.

Albion variety.
Loosening the soil loses its relevance if there is already mulch;
Plant a new strawberry bed every season. The best period for this is July, the end of August, and of course up to and including September. But, planting the plant in July-August allows the plant to take root better, which leads to good yield for the next season.
strawberries of the DSD variety, that is, long daylight hours;

In addition, it has been established that if after autumn pruning the soil does not freeze for 4-5 weeks, premature germination of buds on the rhizome is possible, which will negatively affect the future harvest.

Weak seedlings that have just been planted can not be cut off at all in the fall - leave the stem 15-20 cm long. After all, the root system is still weak, and the green stem will provide some kind of nutrition to the plant until frost. This type of pruning is also done for ordinary raspberry varieties in the year of planting.

There are also hanging strawberries that can be grown in hanging planters.

Planting remontant strawberries

You need to regularly monitor the protection of strawberry bushes from pests and diseases and fertilize them. Periodically it is necessary to get rid of reddening leaves and tendrils and thoroughly weed the beds. If strawberries belonging to the NSD varieties grow in the garden bed, the tendrils do not need to be removed; they may subsequently also produce berries. To do this, you need to leave a little more space for them. As an experiment, you can leave part of the bed with mustaches, and remove them from the rest and then compare the yields.

When the fruiting season is over, the strawberry bushes should be removed from the breast. It is advisable to do this in the fall, before permanent frosts appear.

The beds for strawberries must be prepared from the end of summer and made above the level of the plot.

This variety is characterized by a continuous fruit bearing process, is resistant to temperature changes, is not afraid of diseases, is well transported, but has an average level of frost resistance. Beautiful presentation. The berries are shiny, rich in color, sweet, especially in autumn.

watering strawberries, especially the NSD variety, should be regular and plentiful, then the plant will have the strength to form new berries;

To ensure a good future harvest for a young plant, all inflorescences that appear before frost should be removed.

Caring for remontant strawberries

strawberries of the NSD variety, that is, daylight neutral.

Secondly, spring pruning is preferable for regions with harsh climates and little snowy winters.

In the spring, both new shoots will begin to grow (from the ground), and buds will awaken on those that have overwintered. If flower stalks appear from them, then they must be removed, and then on young shoots too. In this first year, all efforts (both yours and the plants) should be aimed at developing the root system and the bush as a whole.

The Mitse Nova variety has sweeter berries. The White Dream variety has a pineapple flavor. Arapaho has high yields. Lyubasha is a frost-resistant variety.

Before planting strawberries, the soil must settle well, so digging is done in advance - several months in advance (at least 4 weeks). It is also desirable that there are no depressions or ridges in the area - the soil should be cut and rolled.

There are several different opinions about pruning remontant strawberries. So, in most cases, pruning of leaves should be done immediately after the first harvest is harvested. It is advisable to cut off only the leaf blades so as not to damage the sensitive growth point. Some gardeners believe that there is no need to prune strawberries, as this can deprive the bush of its strength and significantly weaken it. The best option is not to interfere with the natural growth of leaves unless absolutely necessary.

It is best to plant remontant strawberries after vegetables: cucumbers, early cabbage, salads and bulbous flowers. They can clear the site early and provide the opportunity to pre-treat the soil (these varieties are very demanding in terms of care and planting) and plant seedlings.

Being a close relative of strawberries, this variety of strawberries has certain similarities with them in terms of agricultural cultivation techniques. The main feature of this type of strawberry is its ability to produce crops several times a year. The number of cases of fruiting in these berries depends on when their fruit buds are formed. Thus, ordinary strawberries are capable of forming them exclusively at the end of summer - beginning of autumn, when daylight hours become shorter. A feature of remontant strawberries is that they lay buds for the next harvest either during neutral or during long daylight hours. So, depending on the period in which the buds are laid, varieties of this strawberry are distinguished.
Queen Elizabeth.
always protect the bushes from pests and feed them regularly;
Remontant strawberries of the NSD variety will allow you to pick berries from May to July. and the second time - closer to frost. But never forget and keep in mind that the fruiting season depends not only on the variety, but also on climatic factors, on when it gets warm and cold.
It is clear that for people who adore strawberries, it is better to have strawberries of the NSD variety in their garden in order to receive their harvest for a long time and almost never suffer from its absence.

And next autumn (late, just before the cold weather) in varieties

Remontant strawberries can be grown from seeds, as well as using seedlings. Growing from seeds allows you to maintain the purity of the variety. The container with the seeds is covered with film and placed in a warm place. The seeds must be exposed to sunlight.

You should not delay planting time - both spring and autumn. If time is lost, it is better to postpone it to another time or mulch the bed.

With the onset of cold weather, care for remontant strawberries is carried out in the same way as in the case of small-fruited strawberries.

The optimal predecessors for strawberries in the garden are onions, garlic, carrots, spinach, lettuce, dill, celery, garlic, carrots, and early varieties of cabbage. It is not recommended to plant strawberries in areas where potatoes, peppers, eggplants, and tomatoes have grown over the last 4 years. Such neighbors can infect strawberries with several types of wilt - Fusarium and Verticillium wilt, which can lead to the death of the plant.

Planting neutral strawberries can save the farm from a berryless season. If you combine different types of remontant strawberries in the garden, you can stock up on fresh berries to the maximum.

The variety has a small number of runners, high yield and is not prone to diseases. Tolerates cold well. Individual berries can reach 100 g in weight. Very fragrant.

Remove tendrils, aging and reddening leaves, weed regularly.

You can use seeds for seedlings of new strawberries, but often such planting is associated with many problems, so propagation by mustache is preferable.

Queen Elizabeth 2

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Vegetable garden - remontant strawberries

In this case, non-removed fruit-bearing shoots will contribute to better snow retention. In the spring, if you wait until the buds begin to open and prune immediately after that, the plant will be replenished with growth substances that are synthesized only in the budding leaves and are necessary for the plant to quickly awaken in spring.

Unattainable, Bryansk miracle

The concept of remontance and its difference from garden varieties

Before planting seedlings, the bed must be prepared and the necessary fertilizers applied. The seedling is transferred into the hole along with a lump of earth. The soil around the seedling needs to be loosened periodically and ensure that the strawberry roots are not exposed. Earth can be added during plant growth.

If there are several varieties with the same ripening period, it is advisable to plant them close to each other - this will make it more convenient to harvest and create conditions for cross-pollination. This is because some varieties can be self-fertile and produce good fruit when self-pollinated, and some, having bisexual flowers, can increase productivity when cross-pollinated.

Necessary materials and tools for planting and caring for strawberries:

Some flower crops can infect young shoots with stem nematode.

The peculiarity of remontant strawberries is to bloom and bear fruit several times during one growing season.

Varieties of remontant strawberries

Lyubava.

You can leave mustaches for day-neutral varieties, as these mustaches will allow you to get an additional harvest. But in this case, planting should take into account the fact that future mustaches should bear fruit. And oddly enough, this approach will not give more yield compared to the method when the mustache is removed.

If the strawberries have already completed their harvest period, remove them from the garden. This procedure must be carried out before frost.

Growing remontant strawberries and care

DSD strawberries produce two harvests per season, with the second harvest always characterized by a greater abundance of berries and occurring approximately in August-September.

For the northern regions, this is very important, since the faster the remontant raspberries “wake up” and the more actively their shoots begin to grow, the larger the harvest the gardener can count on.

etc. All shoots can be cut to soil level. In the spring, a strong root system will throw out powerful shoots, on which a significant raspberry harvest will begin to ripen in August.

Watering this variety of strawberries should be plentiful. But the soil should not float when watering.

garden pruning shears for cutting tendrils;

Pest Control

Remontant strawberries, which produce buds during long daylight hours, are capable of producing harvests twice a year - first in July, then in August-September. The second harvest is often more saturated; the total share in the average annual berry harvest can range from 60 to 90%. It is worth noting that not every bush is able to cope with such a colossal load and many of them die after harvesting.

It is also characterized by good yield, but the fruits are usually medium in size and no more than 35 g, but with a very pleasant strawberry smell. Has excellent frost resistance.

If you have doubts about this statement, you can conduct a simple experiment. The bed can be roughly divided into two parts: remove the mustache in one, and not in the other. After one or two seasons of observation, the gardener usually independently chooses the most suitable way for him to care for strawberries. Please note that in different climatic conditions the result will be different.

For mulch that covers beds, ordinary hay or straw is perfect. But you can also use cut weeds, but naturally without seeds, dried leaves or sawdust steamed in boiling water. This approach can already be attributed to organic farming. But do not forget that the beds should never be left bare. To cover strawberries, it is better to use mowed green manure, which should grow before frost and snow. But if you can’t grow them, mulch with leaves.

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Autumn pruning of remontant raspberries

How to prune remontant raspberries in the fall

Not all varieties are pruned equally

The second harvest may have 90% of the total number of all berries, but this figure depends solely on the age of the plant, and often after such an abundance the plant dies, unable to withstand the load.

Lyubava

Some gardeners, wanting to get a big harvest, do not cut off the stems completely, leaving them about 1 m long.

In order to partially reduce soil swimming, mulching with sawdust, humus, and straw is used. Strawberries need to be fed during flowering; for this purpose, special mineral fertilizers are used. Remontant varieties must be continuously supplied with nitrogen and potassium; phosphorus fertilizers should be applied during soil preparation. Judging by many years of research, it is best to plant strawberries using the two-line bush method. The bush method does not provide for thickening of plantings, which provokes the development of fungal infections. To increase the yield, you can combine the beds and plant garlic or daikon next to each other. garden trowel;

When planting strawberries, you should definitely take into account its varietal characteristics; you also do not need to save on the area of the garden bed - the seedlings should have a lot of free space. Between each bush there should be a distance of up to 50 cm, between the beds - 60 cm.

Remontant strawberries are capable of forming berries equally on both young and mother plants. In order to get fruit, you need to help the bush with rooting of the mustache. So, for example, it will be enough to break through a new plant and place a shoot there.

Selva.

For pruning (haircutting) strawberries of the DSD variety, there are two directly opposite statements. Vima Rina This type of strawberry produces berries not only on the mother bushes. Berries also appear on new tendrils that have taken root only at the beginning of the season. In this case, you cannot mulch with film, otherwise the young mustaches will not take root. Most likely, there will be no mustache at all, unless this is done artificially, simply by making a new hole and planting a new shoot.

How I want to receive fragrant strawberries all season long! Nothing is impossible! Plant remontant varieties! Remontant strawberries are already a fairly common species that can be found in the gardens of summer residents. But gardeners very rarely know its characteristics and grow it as usual.

At the beginning of summer, the first harvest ripens on them, and at the end - the second, already on young shoots. But the increase in yield is not so great as the added hassle: the stems need to be tied and covered for the winter, increased doses of fertilizers must be applied, and watered more.

Spring pruning of remontant raspberries is also possible.

It is important to periodically inspect strawberry bushes, remove leaves and weed out weeds. If the berries lie on the ground, then they should be lifted using a wire ring-shaped support. To get larger berries, you should constantly pluck the tendrils.

Remontance is translated from French as “blooming again.” This is the ability of some plants to re-bloom or bear fruit multiple times in one growing season.

materials for mulching;

Planting should be done in well-lit areas with good quality soil. To prevent the appearance of slugs, it is necessary to plant a bed of garlic between the rows of strawberries.

Has many tendrils that bear fruit well together with the mother plant. It has almost all the advantages of the above varieties, but is very demanding on regular watering, otherwise the berries lose a lot in size and weight.

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Remontant strawberries - growing features, best varieties | House in the village

First

When planting remontant strawberries, always take into account the characteristics of its variety. Never save space for planting it. Strawberry beds should be well lit and have fertile soil.

It is not without reason that the remontant strawberry received its name “large-fruited”. On average, the weight of one berry is 50 g, but individual ones can reach 100 g.

Remontant strawberry - what you need to know about it

Remontant strawberries are characterized by large-fruited berries and repeated fruiting. Flowers and berries on one plant - how lovely! The system for growing remontant strawberry varieties is very similar to growing regular strawberries, as they are its close relative. But it still has its own differences and characteristics in the process of care and cultivation.

It’s better to get one good harvest in late summer-early autumn, when there are no more tasty berries in the garden.

At home, strawberries can yield 10-30 percent more than traditionally grown strawberries.
Remontability is observed in strawberries, raspberries, strawberries, as well as some citrus fruits. Remontant strawberries are popular among gardeners because they can yield delicious berries twice.

film or greenhouse;

If strawberries are planted in open ground, the second crop may not have time to ripen - with the onset of frost, you can lose a significant part of the crop, and the bush will not have time to prepare for wintering. In order to prevent the bush from freezing, the plants should be covered with dry leaves or straw.

When growing such strawberries, it is necessary to take into account certain nuances. First of all, you need to tune in to the accelerated cycle of changing bushes - DSD strawberries can bear fruit for 2-3 years, NSD - only a year, after which the bushes die.
Vima Rina.

- pruning is done after harvesting.

The distance between the bushes should not be less than 45 cm, and between the rows approximately 60 cm. Of course, if the traditional method of harvesting is used, the distance between the bushes can be left at 25 cm.

Characteristic features of remontant strawberries - differences from ordinary ones

If you planted remontant strawberries and want to get 2 or even 3 harvests from them, you will have to work hard. But this work will be rewarded with juicy and fragrant giant berries.

Albion

With the onset of winter, remontant strawberries should experience slight frosts several times, only after this should the leaves be cut off from the bushes and covered with non-woven material.

Secrets of agricultural technology for remontant strawberries

After the first fruiting, remontant strawberries begin to lay buds and set berries. This strawberry needs more frequent watering and high-quality fertile soil. Remontant strawberry bushes produce an excellent harvest from mid-spring to late autumn.

lime for preparing alkaline soil.

In the northern regions of the country, growing varieties of remontant strawberries under film (in protected ground) is common. This method of growing strawberries is completely justified and brings good results; the crop usually ripens ahead of schedule.

One of the peculiarities of growing strawberries is sacrificing certain crops. If you remove spring flower stalks, you can increase next year's harvest and speed up its ripening. In order to obtain tendrils for propagating bushes, the autumn harvest will have to suffer.Tolerates drought well, practically does not get sick.

Second

The bed must be narrow so as not to trample it underfoot during care or harvesting.
To grow remontant strawberries, you should know some nuances:
There are two types of garden strawberries (strawberries):
remontant raspberry Yellow giant
In order to get healthy and nutritious berries, you need to remember about pest control. For example, to combat aphids, you need to prepare a solution that consists of two or three heads of garlic, filled with three liters of cold water. The solution will be ready in a week; bushes with aphids should be treated with this solution using a sprayer.
Remontant strawberries differ from garden varieties in having weaker foliage, rather small berries and fragility.

Planting and caring for remontant strawberries

The method of propagation of this variety of strawberry is practically no different from the propagation of wild strawberries. If there is a need to preserve valuable varietal characteristics, such berries are best propagated by mustaches. If the variety is not able to form a sufficient number of tendrils, it is necessary to propagate it by dividing the bush or by seeds.

The main feature of remontant strawberries is the rapid aging of plants. This happens due to the fact that new flowers and berries are constantly born on it throughout the season. A situation may arise that after receiving large berries in one year, you can get small ones similar to strawberries in the second. In order to avoid such a situation, you must adhere to a certain algorithm:

Mahern.

- pruning is not required at all and is even contraindicated, as the plant becomes weakened. And, as practice shows, the second statement is more correct; you should not trim leaves unnecessarily.

It wouldn’t hurt to plant garlic between the rows of garden strawberries. Garlic will prevent slugs from appearing. To do this, plant it thicker or in 2 layers: one clove deeper, the other above it.

This variety will not bear fruit forever, the plant will die in 2-3 years, and the NSD variety will die after 1 year. This result occurs due to the accelerated cycle of growth and yield;

ordinary, which bears fruit once a year;
Although it exhibits remontability, it forms the main crop on last year’s stems. Therefore, they do not cut it and the shoots are tied up for the winter,
To combat wasps, you need to place jars of something sweet around the beds. Then the wasps will be distracted from the berries and switch to the jars.
Fragility is associated with constant reloading of yield, and not every plant can cope with such a huge load. Usually the first harvest of such strawberries is less than the second: 30 percent is the first harvest, and 70 percent is the second. Only the strongest bushes can withstand such a load, so after the first harvest, some of them may die. A strong strawberry bush can live for about three years.

Should I remove my mustache or leave it on?

Planting remontant strawberries using seeds is a rather painstaking task, but the result will not be long in coming - this way you can get 100% healthy bushes.

Strawberry fruits grow quite large, so some of the bushes may not withstand the load and die.

Shows excellent qualities, both in fruiting and in the absence of disease, but does not like direct sunlight. Also, the berries of this variety become smaller as the harvest ripens.

Autumn care and preparation for cold weather for remontant strawberries is the same as for regular ones. But for the DSD variety, in order to avoid partial loss of the late harvest of strawberries, which are grown in open ground, it is better to cover the plants with dried leaves or straw. For cold parts of the country, it is recommended to grow strawberries under a film cover or cover them with agrofibre. Caring for strawberries has several features that will help you get a decent harvest. And it consists of intensive watering, fertilizing, loosening and protection from pests.

Don’t be afraid to remove flower stalks that appear in the spring.Repairable, which can bring a harvest more than twice in one season.

Preparing remontant strawberries for the winter season

bend down to the ground and cover. But in the summer it ripens early and is almost not affected by diseases.

Reproduction

To fight birds, you need to scatter small red glass balls around the bushes. After trying to peck such balls, most birds no longer touch the strawberries.

The best varieties of remontant strawberries

To get a richer second harvest, you need to be able to sacrifice the first harvest. For this purpose, flower stalks should be trimmed in spring.

Caring for strawberries is not difficult. For example, these berries are undemanding when it comes to soil - an excellent harvest can be harvested in beds with basic soil types. A prerequisite is that the soils must be air- and water-permeable, but not waterlogged.

Planting of seedlings should be done from July to September, always in a new bed. The most suitable time is from July to the end of August - this will help the seedlings to take root better in a new place and guarantee a good harvest next year;Place remontant strawberries in your garden, give them a little attention, and they will give you a generous harvest throughout the season!!!

The best way is propagation using a mustache. If the plant has produced few tendrils, then you can resort to dividing the bush or sowing seeds. Seed propagation is a very troublesome business, but a healthy plant always grows.Tips:

This approach will allow you to increase the second harvest, which will be earlier and more abundant. If you need mustaches for seedlings, then you will have to sacrifice the harvest, which occurs in the fall.The number of harvests directly depends on when the buds of the plants are formed. Regular strawberries can form these buds only from late summer to early autumn, that is, when daylight hours are short. Remontant strawberries lay buds for flowering and subsequent harvest when daylight hours are long or neutral.

“The berries are large, with good care they grow as large as strawberries, sweet, tender, amber-yellow in color. The variety propagates easily and quickly. In snowless winters, freezing of the root system was not observed. In a word, an excellent variety for local conditions, for which I have not yet found a replacement,” writes Evgeniy Ivanovich Piskunov, a famous Siberian experienced gardener and head of the Apricot farm.Remontant strawberries are a crop that becomes more common over time. This is due to more abundant, prolonged and continuous fruiting, which is observed when agricultural practices for growing remontant strawberries are followed.

To get tendrils, especially in a weakened area, you should learn to sacrifice the second harvest. Strawberry plantings are fed with nitrogen fertilizers in the summer and all flower stalks are cut off. In this case, the strawberry bushes will not waste energy on forming rosettes. A negative reaction in remontant strawberries occurs on alkaline and saline soils. It grows best in slightly acidic soil with an acidity of at least 5.3.

One of the prerequisites for the comfortable growth of remontant strawberries is covering the beds with mulch. For this purpose, you can use straw, hay, any cut weeds, sawdust, and dry leaves. Under no circumstances should the beds be kept bare. For the winter, you can cover the ground with green manure (often they grow before snow falls or before frost) or with mulching.

castos.ru Growing strawberries Rejuvenating pruning of old apple trees

Remontant strawberries, or as they are more correctly called, remontant garden strawberries, can increasingly be found in the garden plots of not only amateurs, but also professionals. It sometimes inhabits large territories, and the owners are happy with this coexistence. However, to my surprise, many people still have questions about the proper care of remontant garden strawberries, as if this overseas miracle was brought to our land just a couple of days ago.

Caring for remontant strawberry bushes. © Uteki

The main difference between remontant garden strawberries and ordinary ones is its ability to bloom and, accordingly, bear fruit twice a season, without interruption. Only a small fraction of plants have this ability - raspberries and a number of citrus fruits.

Garden strawberries of remontant varieties can lay flower buds either in long daylight conditions (for example, the Garland variety) or in neutral daylight conditions (for example, the Miracle of the World variety). It is noteworthy that varieties capable of setting flower buds in long daylight conditions produce approximately 40% of their harvest in July and up to 60% of their harvest in August.

Remontant garden strawberries, capable of laying flower buds in neutral daylight conditions, bloom and bear fruit throughout the warm period, gradually yielding their harvest. Considering the great wear and tear of plants, plantations of remontant strawberries that bear fruit twice a year also need to be changed once every three years, and those that bear fruit throughout the warm period - once every two years, each time changing the location of the plot.

In our material we will try to bring to your attention in as much detail as possible the subtleties of caring for remontant garden strawberries.

How to properly care for remontant garden strawberries?

By and large, varieties of remontant strawberries cannot be called capricious; they are all quite unpretentious, but they still have their own subtleties in care. For example, everyone knows that modern large-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries can form berries weighing from 65 to 90 grams or more. Naturally, this will most likely lead to fairly rapid depletion of the soil and the need to apply additional fertilizers. This may be why a number of gardeners, contrary to general opinion, advise removing the very first spring flower stalks. Then the second harvest of remontant strawberries, firstly, will be much earlier than expected, therefore, the plants will prepare for winter without human intervention. Secondly, the berries will be tastier and larger. Sometimes the total harvest after such a simple technique even exceeds two total harvests or an all-season harvest for remontant varieties of a different type.

Caring for remontant garden strawberries includes strictly mandatory steps - this is indispensable watering (the plants must be provided with plenty of moisture), fertilizer (everything is good here in moderation, but the plants should not suffer from a deficiency of one or another element), loosening the soil (after each watering and rain to avoid the formation of a soil crust when air and water exchange is disrupted), mulching the beds (after each watering, as it inhibits the growth of weeds and the formation of a soil crust), weed control (especially wheatgrass - the most malicious competitor of crops) , destruction of pests and diseases (at the earliest stages of their manifestation), pruning bushes (a specific procedure for remontant strawberries) and, finally, preparation for winter (an important stage in the life of remontant garden strawberries).

Important! Gardeners who have been through fire and water recommend that you always mulch the beds with remontant garden strawberries, because the root system of this berry crop, unlike the common garden strawberry, is located high, and the plants very often suffer from a banal lack of moisture. To save irrigation water, you need to use mulch almost immediately after watering (and it is better to water with water at room temperature and in the evening). The mulch can be spruce needles, sawdust, straw, humus, hay, or ordinary mown grass. In addition to protecting against moisture loss, mulch will also protect the berries from being splashed with soil during rain and watering and will inhibit the growth of weeds (don’t forget about them too!).

Caring for remontant strawberries. © Aliceson

Watering remontant strawberries

Remontant varieties of garden strawberries need to be watered more often than ordinary garden strawberries, especially in the dry seasons of the year. Immediately after planting the seedlings, the plants need to be watered every day, then after five to six days, watering can be done every other day, and ultimately, watering just a couple of times a month will be enough.

To water remontant strawberries, you can only use warm water at room temperature; it’s great if it’s rainwater collected in a barrel painted black. You can water the plantings both in the morning and in the evening. When watering, try to ensure that the soil in the area where remontant garden strawberries grow is moistened by two to three centimeters at a time.

As for the mulch of remontant strawberries, as we already wrote above, it is needed, but it is not at all necessary to cover the soil with mulch immediately after watering; this can be done the next day. Instead of mulch, if, for example, it rains, the soil between the rows can be carefully loosened. But remember: it is very important not to damage the roots, which, as we have already written, are located closer to the surface of the soil than those of common strawberries. The main thing when mulching or loosening is to avoid soil crust so that air can freely penetrate to the roots.

If there is no rain for a long period and the soil dries out, then you can break all the rules of watering and moisten the soil almost every day, without allowing the soil to dry out too much, this is very important. If the soil is already very dry, for example, in a country house where you have not been for several days, then first very carefully loosen the soil and then water it, but do not do the opposite. Frequent watering is especially important for day-neutral varieties of remontant strawberries; why, I think there is no need to explain here. These same varieties require more frequent and thorough weeding, especially after rain and the removal of dying leaves that turn red.

Fertilizer for remontant strawberries

It is clear that remontant garden strawberries can be severely depleted and they definitely need proper feeding. Remontant garden strawberries most actively consume elements such as nitrogen and potassium from the soil. But she needs phosphorus, but to an insignificant extent. Taking this into account, fertilizing with phosphorus can be carried out only once, adding doses of superphosphate (15-20 g per square meter) only when planting a plantation of remontant garden strawberries.

An approximate feeding scheme for remontant strawberries is as follows:

Usually, the first feeding of remontant strawberries is carried out in the third ten days of May, during this period they use urea, the composition is very weak - one gram or two (if the soil is poor, per bucket of water), this is the norm per square meter of soil. Approximately in the second half of June, when peduncles of repeated fruiting begin to actively form, you can add mullein (1:10 - in the amount of 0.5 liters per square meter or bird droppings 1:15 - in the amount of 0.3 liters per square meter). It is quite acceptable, along with organic fertilizers, to use newfangled mineral fertilizers, such as Kristallin Solution or Kemira Lux.

In general, ideally, the entire season should be stretched out so that there are about ten fertilizers, alternating these fertilizers.

The second option for feeding remontant strawberries is when, at the very beginning of June, the plants are fed not only with slurry diluted 10 times and bird droppings 15 times, but also with the addition of 1% urea (1 g per bucket of water), this entire composition should be used on 2 - 3 square meters of area.

Fertilizer for remontant strawberries. © SunnysideLOCAL

Diseases of remontant strawberries

Gray rot

Remontant garden strawberries are often attacked by gray rot. It manifests itself most actively in dense plantations, where the soil is not loosened and frequent watering is carried out, especially with sprinkling and cold water. Gray rot can affect all above-ground organs of the plant, which will lead to losses of up to 85% of the entire crop. In order to prevent the appearance of gray rot on remontant strawberries, it is necessary to plant on the site in accordance with the characteristics of the growth and development of a particular variety, to mulch the soil, as well as sufficient, but not excessive watering. At the first sign of infection, the affected parts of the plants should be removed.

As a preventative measure, you can treat plants at the very beginning of the growing season with 2.0% Bordeaux mixture, and after harvesting at the very end of the growing season, to consolidate the result, with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur.

There are also fungicides to combat the disease, but you can only use approved ones, in full accordance with the instructions on the package, for example, Strobi, Switch, Euparen, Triadimefon (Bayleton), Captan. The biological product Alirin-B is considered the safest from the list of recommended ones.

Brown spot

It manifests itself when, as in the previous case, strawberry plantings are thickened, there is too much moisture, and day and night temperatures fluctuate noticeably. As a preventive measure in the spring, remove all dry leaves so that the infection does not “settle” on them and treat with 2% Bordeaux mixture. Do not forget about mulching, which will not allow the fungus to reach the surface.

If the disease is very active, then use approved fungicides, strictly following the instructions on the package, for example, Skor, Strobi, Fundazol.

Powdery mildew

The first sign of the appearance of this disease is the purple color of the strawberry leaf blades, then they curl and become ash-gray, as if sprinkled with old flour. If you don’t want this disease to come visit you, then in early spring, treat the plants with a weak (slightly pink) solution of potassium permanganate or 1% colloidal sulfur.

There are also fungicides, but use only approved ones and exactly in accordance with the instructions on the package, for example, Topaz, Fundazol, Tilt, Strobi and Fitosporin-M.

Brown spotting on strawberry leaves. © Tip10Powdery mildew on strawberry leaves. © gov.au

Pests of remontant strawberries

The first pests of remontant strawberries on my site are slugs. I saved myself from them by planting garlic between the rows: honestly, I never saw a single slug again.

Strawberry mite

It is considered a much more dangerous pest of strawberries: if it damages young leaves, they curl and turn yellow quite actively. The plant itself is sharply inhibited in growth. The mite can infect from half to the entire plantation, and without treatment it can lead to its death.

A 3% solution of colloidal sulfur helps to overcome mites, but it can only be used very early in the spring and after the entire harvest has been harvested. Well, and of course, various types of approved acaricides.

Strawberry nematode

Usually, if a strawberry is infected with a nematode, its leaves become deformed and curled. A characteristic feature can be seen on the petioles: they become too fragile and sometimes break even from the wind. Fruiting on such plants is either weak or absent altogether. The nematode is considered a quarantine pest; if it is present on the site, plants must be immediately removed and burned.

Spider mite

Usually the strawberry leaves seem to become limp, and if you turn them over, you will notice traces of the mite’s activity – a cobweb. As a result, the leaf blades turn yellow and dry out prematurely. Gardeners write that Karbofos helps very well against spider mites. After harvesting the entire crop, they process the plants and cover them with film for several days.

Signs of damage to strawberries by strawberry or cyclamen mites. © K. LynchDead strawberry plants affected by the strawberry nematode. © Surendra DaraStrawberries affected by spider mites. © Surendra Dara

Pruning remontant strawberries

Caring for remontant strawberry bushes, among other things, also includes pruning. Typically, pruning bushes is enough to do once a season - either in spring or autumn.

If you live in a cold region where remontant strawberries require shelter, then pruning should be done in the autumn. This is done as follows: after the final harvest of the entire harvest, the lower leaf blades are removed from the bush, trying not to touch the upper leaf blades, because it is in their axils that the fruit buds are laid, from which the fruits will form next season.

In the event that berries do not form on the mustache at all and the gardener does not plan to propagate remontant garden strawberries in this way, then removal of the mustache is mandatory.

Remember, however, this rule: after the first fruiting of remontant garden strawberries, the removal of the whiskers is usually not carried out, but the leaves that have begun to dry out, have formed spots or are hiding more developed and healthy leaves must be removed. Removing such leaves can be done in the fall, immediately after harvesting the entire harvest, when the foliage slowly begins to dry out.

If you are a resident of a cold region, then take your time and postpone this operation to the spring, remove such leaves after the snow cover has completely melted.

Important! Many people neglect to trim dead leaves and tendrils of remontant garden strawberries, but their removal is like a shield that protects plants from pathogens, because it is on diseased, old foliage that the infection overwinters.

Autumn care and preparation for wintering

Long sunny day remontant strawberry plants often do not ripen fully by the end of the season, especially if they are not grown in a greenhouse. Taking this into account, not only is part of the harvest lost, but sometimes plants that do not have time to adapt to cold weather and frost also suffer. The best option to save such plants is to cover them with fresh straw 5-8 cm thick, and throw spruce branches on top, which will keep the straw from flying all over the area.

Remontant garden strawberry. © siliconinvestor

Bottom line

As you can see, growing remontant garden strawberries does not present any particular difficulties and even a beginner, not to mention a professional, can cope with this task.

Do not forget, however, even though we have already written about this, that the lifespan of the plantation should be no more than three years, after which the plantings need to be renewed.

Strawberries are the oldest berry; archaeologists find traces of them in sediments that are more than 60 million years old. But it became a garden crop only in the 15th century; before that, people were content with a generous forest harvest. And modern breeders have made the dream of our ancestors a reality - they have developed remontant varieties of strawberries, the fruiting of which lasts from early summer until late autumn, due to which they are distinguished by impressive yields. Remontant strawberries are incredibly popular among gardeners, but if you decide to grow this berry in your garden, you need to prepare for the need to carefully care for it, because the plant requires a lot of attention. Let's take a closer look at the rules for planting and caring for remontant strawberries.

Advantages and disadvantages of remontant strawberries

Strawberries of remontant varieties differ from their forest relatives, first of all, by an increased fruiting period. That is, as soon as one fruiting cycle ends, it is immediately replaced by the next. Thanks to the efforts of breeders, wild strawberries have acquired many useful properties that make their cultivation easier, but at the same time they managed to keep the taste and aroma inherent in the wild berry unchanged.

Remontant strawberries begin to bear fruit from early summer until late autumn

Among the advantages of remontant strawberries are:

High yields. Modern varieties begin to bear fruit 2 weeks earlier than classic ones, and thanks to their frost resistance, they yield until late autumn.
Cold resistance. Even if the inflorescences are damaged due to frost, new ones will quickly grow in their place.
Large fruit size, compared to wild berries.
Taste and color variety. There are varieties with yellow or white berries.
Disease resistance and insect pests.

But these varieties also have their own disadvantages, which are associated with the difficulties of caring for them:

The berry will produce a large harvest only in the first few years, then it will begin to deplete. In order for the plant to constantly actively bear fruit, it must replantation required every 2-3 years.
Remontant varieties are more demanding of moisture, nutrition and lighting. In the absence of the necessary conditions, the fruits will become smaller and yields will decrease.
Such strawberries grown only by seedlings.

Thus, remontant varieties of strawberries bring a lot of trouble to gardeners, but they are more than compensated by the advantages of the plant. Growing berries has specific characteristics, so before you start growing them in your garden, it is necessary to gain knowledge about planting and proper care of these varieties of strawberries.

Rules for planting in open ground

Sowing of remontant strawberries begins early - at the end of February, or in the first week of March. It is carried out as follows:

Pour into seedling container loose soil and pour water over it.
Spread the seeds evenly over the surface and press lightly into the ground with your fingers. There is no need to fill it with earth.
Cover the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect and place it on the windowsill.
Moisten the soil periodically from a spray bottle and lift the glass for ventilation.

Growing remontant strawberry seedlings: temperature - 20-22 degrees, bright lighting - 12-15 hours a day, regularly ventilate containers

Strawberry seeds take a long time to hatch - from 20 to 30 days. When the sprouts hatch and 3 leaves appear on them, the seedlings need to be plucked.

You can plant strawberries in open ground as soon as the night frosts stop.

The plant is capricious regarding its planting location. If cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage or potatoes were previously grown in this place, then the berries will not grow there. It is better to choose an area where beans, garlic, dill or parsley previously grew. Also, the soil after bulbous flowers - tulips, hyacinths, crocuses - will contribute to a rich harvest of berries.

The most optimal planting method is considered to be a two-line bush. It will relieve thickening and protect the plant from fungal infections.. With this method, a distance of 30 cm is left between two lines in the tape, and 70 cm between the tapes themselves. In rows, the bushes are planted at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other.

While we are looking forward to the strawberry season, we are saddened to watch it gradually come to an end. Preparations, jams and compotes have been made, strawberries have been frozen in freezers, whole and in the form of smoothies, but nothing compares to the taste of fresh aromatic berries.

This is a photo of strawberries at the end of August!

If an ordinary strawberry forms a peduncle, then another, lays buds, blooms and bears fruit, then the remontant one “knows how” to simultaneously lay peduncles, bloom and bear fruit.

In this case, it is divided into two types:

Some varieties bloom and bear fruit in waves (first, second, third) with short breaks.
Other varieties bloom and bear fruit continuously. At the same time, laying flower stalks, delighting with flowers and growing crops, strawberries delight them until late autumn, and sometimes, right with flowers and green berries, they go under the snow.

These properties can be inherent in the culture by nature, or they can be bred by breeders as a result of painstaking work.

Tricks

The fruiting period of remontant strawberries can be adjusted by removing flower stalks.

It is considered a trick of gardeners that during the period of mass production of strawberries (early, middle and late varieties), the peduncles of remontant ones are plucked out, thereby postponing fruiting to the period when the main shaft has already been harvested.

If ordinary varieties produce their harvest in 3–4 weeks, then the remontant variety stretches it out for 3–4 months, but this does not mean at all that the crop yield will be 3–4 times higher than the usual one.

However, in order to systematically distribute the harvest over time, it is necessary to distribute nutrients, which is why the technological process for obtaining berries is somewhat different than when growing varieties of short daylight hours.

Site selection and preparation

Red beets are a suitable predecessor for remontant strawberries.

Among the predecessors, it is better to give preference to green crops, such as lettuce, radishes, beets, etc. After nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants), you cannot plant a bed with strawberries.

The site is chosen to be sunny and level, without stagnant water. In southern latitudes, where heating is very intense, you can choose openwork shade under the trees.

It is better to choose loam or sandy loam soils with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction.

Garlic is often planted in a strawberry bed.

Autumn planting

For autumn planting, the site is prepared in the spring, for spring planting in the fall.

This will allow the soil to “mature” and balance, and the microflora will make all nutrients available for immediate absorption by the root system.

We scatter rotted manure (a bucket per m2), fresh compost, stove ash (kilogram per m2), 20 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate per m2 over the area, and carefully dig everything up while freeing the area from weeds.

Spring planting

The bed is dug up in advance, fertilized and leveled, so that later you can simply make holes with a scoop and plant strawberry seedlings.

Spring plantings can begin from mid-May, and autumn plantings from late August to mid-September. The main condition for the success of the event will be high humidity: fog, drizzling rain, thick clouds - the best weather conditions for planting strawberry seedlings.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Freshly planted strawberries on our site.

When planning a garden bed on open ground, you need to decide in advance on the growing method.

Landings can be carried out:

in rows. In this case, we maintain 20–25 cm, and 60–70 between rows;
carpet. With this method, a plot of 20–25x20–25 cm is planted.

Landing scheme.

If natural precipitation is rare in your region, consider the possibility of drip irrigation in advance. The “drop” system can be laid both before and after planting.

Since remontant strawberries are constantly selected, it is better to give preference, for convenience. ordinary method .
so that the roots are straightened and the middle is above the soil surface after watering. If the water has pulled down a little, you can lift the bush and then water it.
If the plot is planted in the spring, then by autumn you will be able to enjoy the first harvest. When planting in autumn, next season, starting in summer, you will be provided with aromatic berries.

Care

Mulching makes it easier to care for strawberries and keeps the berries clean.

Remontant strawberries include:

watering;
loosening;

Spring plantings will require more attention than autumn plantings. A rapid increase in temperature does not promote rooting, so seedlings must be carefully protected from overheating.

Constant moisture under the bushes will make it possible to grow the root system and take root well. To prevent excessive evaporation, it is better to mulch the areas under the bushes. For this purpose, you can use straw, sawdust or agrofibre.

When planting in autumn, nature itself carefully looks after the strawberry rosettes and no additional attention is required.

Feeding

Strawberries absorb liquid fertilizers faster.

Strawberries begin their growing season early. The root system is shallow, and warming the upper layers of the soil already promotes the germination of green shoots. During this planting period. To do this, dissolve 2 tbsp in a bucket of water. spoons of ammonium nitrate and pour under each bush 200–250 g .

The second feeding should be done a little later, during the period when the flower stalks begin to extend. Fertilize during this period with the same mineral fertilizers and in the same doses.

After the first fruiting, nutrients were removed, but strawberry bushes no longer needed nitrogen fertilizers for the growth of vegetative mass, but phosphorus-potassium fertilizers needed to be replenished.

Features of remontant strawberries

If ordinary strawberries can use stove ash, then remontant strawberries require quick minerals during the fruiting period that will help renew fruiting buds.

For this purpose, you can use potassium sulfate and superphosphate. There is no point in scattering dry granules under bushes. Fertilizers must act immediately and are best dissolved.

Dissolve 50 g of the mentioned fertilizers in a bucket of water and add them under each bush in a volume of 200–250 ml.

Pre-irrigation

Drip irrigation of strawberries.

Fertilizing strawberries cannot be done without prior irrigation. Only thorough watering will help absorb nutrients and start the renewal mechanism.

Third feeding

At the end of summer, remontant strawberries are fed with wood ash.

The third feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be carried out in late August - early September, and in late autumn 10-15 g of stove ash can be added under the bushes. Mineral substances left over from burning plant residues contain a fairly wide range of chemical elements useful for strawberries.

Autumn rains and meltwater will bring minerals to the root system, and they will be fully available by the next season.

Pork, horse, cow ripened humus an obligatory component of fertilizing . You can spread it out between the rows in the fall. One bucket will be enough per m2. If such organic matter is not available, then you need to use compost; its beneficial microflora has already made the plant residues digestible and will continue to work under the bushes.

Trimming

In early spring, old leaves are removed from the bushes.

Trimming green foliage on remontant strawberries is not practiced, but in the spring, it is necessary to carefully trim off old, last year’s foliage, thus cleaning the garden bed.

Conclusion

A remontant strawberry plantation does not last long. After using it for 2-3 years, grow seedlings and plant the next row in a new place. In this case, your strawberries will be especially productive and tasty.

Video about the features of caring for remontant strawberries

After a long winter, gardeners especially look forward to the appearance of the first fresh berries, which include large-fruited garden strawberries, or strawberries. But the waiting period often lasts longer than the actual enjoyment of the fruits. To make it possible to harvest strawberries all summer, breeders developed a remontant variety of this crop.

The word “remontant” is translated from French as “blooming again.” Such strawberries bear fruit several times a season and are distinguished by high yield. Remontant strawberries usually have two or three waves of fruiting, while rare varieties have four. The first wave usually occurs in July, and the second in August. If you correctly combine regular and remontant varieties of early, medium and late ripening on your site, you can continuously enjoy strawberries all summer long. If the autumn is warm, the berries will ripen almost before the first snow.

Remontant strawberries have the following planting and care features:

The growing season of the plant is extended. Remontant strawberries require more careful care: this means that the gardener needs to constantly monitor soil moisture, loosen the soil and regularly carry out complex fertilizing.
The bush ages faster, since the plant needs a lot of strength to bear fruit. Accordingly, we have to constantly grow new seedlings.
The bush is smaller and does not produce mustache as well. Consequently, it takes up less space in the garden bed.
It often goes under the snow with buds, so it requires additional shelter. Most remontant varieties have low winter hardiness.
Suitable for home growing on a windowsill or balcony. With the right choice of variety and proper care, it will bear fruit all year round. In winter, plants need to be illuminated 12 hours a day.

Types of remontant strawberries

Depending on the characteristics of fruiting and reproduction, varieties can be divided into several categories.

Long/neutral daylight hours.

Flowering of DSD varieties is possible only when daylight hours last longer than 10 hours. Such strawberries produce several waves of harvest over 2-3 years. The second wave of fruiting is usually more productive. Varieties: Crimean remontant, Autumn fun, Inexhaustible, Garland.

Day neutral varieties are less dependent on light duration. Flowers, young ovaries and ripe berries coexist on the bush. Fruits evenly throughout the season. The lifespan of the bush is 1 year. The best remontant varieties of NSD strawberries: Monterey, Albion, Murano, Harmony, Selva. Suitable for warm regions, does not winter well in the cold.

Mustachioed/little mustachioed/no mustache

Beardless strawberries are less demanding to care for: there is no need to constantly thin out emerging shoots. The plant does not lose its strength to reproduce, which has a positive effect on yield, but the bush quickly thickens, so the berries become smaller. These strawberries are more difficult to propagate. Varieties: Alexandrina, Coquette, Orion, Bolero.

Whiskered strawberries are easy to propagate, but require constant attention: the bed quickly becomes overgrown with new shoots that need to be removed. She needs more space on the site. Varieties: Alba, Tristar, Asia, Lyubava, Diamond.

Malousaya grows a mustache only in the first year of life. It can be propagated by layering only in the summer after planting. Varieties: Elsanta, Vikoda, Capri.

Large-fruited/small-fruited

Large-fruited strawberries are popularly called Victoria. The berries of such varieties as Queen Elizabeth, Vima Rina, Temptation, Albion weigh more than 20 g, some reach 50-70 g. The pulp of such fruits is juicy, but more watery. They are good for freezing.

Small-fruited strawberries are usually called wild strawberries. The average weight of berries is 5-7 g, they are more aromatic and ripen faster. Bushes are less susceptible to gray rot, since the berries practically do not fall on the ground. Small-fruited strawberries are usually without runners, but, unlike large ones, they can reproduce by their own seeds. Varieties: Ruyana, Lesnaya Skazka, Baron Solemacher, Rügen, Cinderella.

How to choose a variety

Before buying seeds and seedlings, the gardener must decide what the main purpose of cultivation is and what conditions for strawberries can be created on the site (will they grow in a garden bed or in a greenhouse, how much space can be allocated, will the bushes be covered for the winter).

If the goal is to harvest for future use, you should choose varieties that ripen quickly and produce a large mass. This is a large-fruited DSD strawberry. When purchasing, pay attention to the yield of the varieties and the density of the berries.

Variety name	Features of the bush	Features of berries		Disease resistance
Queen Elizabeth 2 Up to 1.5 kg/per bush	Powerful, low, spreading. Strong bevel formation.	50 – 70 g. Asymmetrical, lumpy. Juicy and sweet and sour, medium density	Winter-hardy. Suitable for growing in Siberia and the Urals.	Resistant to gray rot and spotting.
Marshmallow Up to 1 kg/s bush	Tall with a thick peduncle.	40-60 g. Dark red in color, scallop shaped. Quite sweet and dense.	Withstands frost if well covered with snow.	Resistant to gray rot and powdery mildew.
Moscow delicacy Up to 1.2 kg/per bush	Compact. The leaves are medium sized Malousaya.	30 g. Bright red, shiny, with pinkish flesh. Sweet with moderate sourness, dense.	If there is excess moisture, it can cause bitterness. Requires good shelter for the winter.	Average. Susceptible to fungal diseases.
Garland Up to 1.2 kg/per bush	Low, spherical, with a lot of mustache.	30 g. Red-pink, oblong, dense, with a light strawberry aroma.	Drought and frost resistance is average, loves semi-shaded places. Suitable for vertical growing.	Susceptible to powdery mildew and fungal diseases.

When grown primarily for food, it is worth paying attention to taste - the description of the variety should indicate that the berries have a dessert taste. You should give preference to NSD strawberries, which have medium and small fruits: they are sweeter and more aromatic, and bear fruit all summer.

Variety name	Features of the bush	Features of berries	Requirements for growing conditions	Disease resistance
Marisol Up to 0.8 kg/s bush	Powerful and strong, the flowers are located above the leaves.	25 g. Dense, bright red, conical, sugary.	Drought resistant.	Very stable.
Ostara Up to 1 kg/s bush	Compact, with fruiting tendrils.	15 – 20 g. Very sweet, reminiscent of wild strawberries. They do not tolerate transportation well.	Requires constant preventive treatment against fungal diseases.	Susceptible to root diseases and gray rot.
Mara de bois Up to 0.7 kg/s bush	Small, with short peduncles. It produces few whiskers, but they bear fruit.	20 g. Conical, red-orange. With a strong strawberry aroma.	Can be grown in ampelous form. When the berries ripen, they fall to the ground and require stands.	Susceptible to gray rot and spotting. Resistant to powdery mildew.
Rügen Up to 0.5 kg/s bush	Compact, semi-spreading, barren, with straight strong peduncles.	6 g. Bright red, oblong, sugary, with the aroma of wild berries.	Winter-hardy.	Stable.

In the case of commercial cultivation, pay attention to the possibility of transportation and shelf life of the berries, yield and attractive appearance.

Variety name	Features of the bush	Features of berries	Requirements for growing conditions	Disease resistance
Albion Up to 1.5 kg/per bush	Very large and spreading, with powerful peduncles.	40 g. Bright red, oblong, very dense with a light aroma. The taste develops during the second wave of fruiting.	Tolerates drought well. May freeze - be sure to cover for the winter	Low.
Monterey Up to 2 kg/s bush	Powerful, with large leaves.	30 g. Dark cherry, glossy, oblong, aromatic and juicy	Winter hardiness is low - suitable for southern regions.	Susceptible to powdery mildew.
San Andreas Up to 1 kg/s bush	Medium size with a powerful root system. Small mustachioed.	30 g. Firm, shiny, oblong, slightly sour, dense	On especially hot days it needs shading. Demanding on soil.	Very resistant
Capri Up to 2 kg/s bush	Compact, medium-sized with straight powerful peduncles. Not enough mustaches.	40 g. Burgundy, shiny Conical, with thick skin	Frost-resistant, drought-resistant, does not require shading.	Stable

When to plant strawberries

Strawberry seeds are sown between February 15 and March 15, focusing on the characteristics of the variety and the lunar calendar.

Active plant growth occurs twice a year: in spring and mid-summer. The first planting of seedlings in open ground in central Russia takes place from April 15 to May 5, when the snow melts, the temperature will be 10-12o. If young bushes grow under spunbond or film, you can plant them a week earlier. Spring planting allows you to get a harvest in the same year.

In the summer, you can plant strawberries from July 25 to the 20th of August, so that the plant has time to take root and go strong before winter. A mustache is usually used for these purposes.

Growing remontant strawberries from seeds

This method of obtaining seedlings is quite labor-intensive: young plants are very tender, their growth rate is low. However, after transplanting into open ground, they quickly grow stronger and accelerate their growth rate.

Preparing the soil and container

Seeds should be germinated in a large flat container 5-7 cm high, with drainage holes at the bottom. Strawberries prefer sandy loam, loam, and humus among soils. You can buy universal soil in the store, but be sure to check the acidity beforehand: the soil should be slightly acidic or neutral (pH 5-6). Or prepare your own mixture of vermicompost, peat and sand in a 1:3:1 ratio. It is first necessary to disinfect the soil by calcining it in the oven for half an hour at a temperature of 150°. You can also get rid of harmful microorganisms using special fungicides, potassium permanganate, or by heating the soil with steam. After the soil has cooled, pour it into a box and water thoroughly before planting.

Seed preparation

Disembarkation

Strawberry seeds are small. To make it convenient to sow them, you can mix the seeds with sand. The resulting mixture is evenly scattered over the surface of the bowl. After this, you should spray with water from a spray bottle, which will slightly pull the seeds into the soil.

Another way is to put a layer of snow on top of the soil, and then place the seeds on it with tweezers at a distance of 2 cm between the plants. The seeds will be visible, you can move them if desired. Then the container is placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 2-3 days. When the snow melts, it will pull the seeds inside. This method does not require subsequent thinning and makes picking easier.

Care before sprouts appear

The container is covered with polyethylene or glass and placed in a bright, warm place with a temperature of about 20°. It will feel best on windows facing south or southeast. To speed up growth, if there is insufficient light, you can use it for 12 hours.

It is important to monitor the level of moisture in the soil: the soil should not dry out, but at the same time, excessive watering should be avoided so that mold does not grow and the seeds do not rot. Condensation on the greenhouse lid should be visible, but not collect in large drops.

Seedling care

The first seeds will sprout in 2-3 weeks. Polyethylene should be removed 3-4 days after the mass appearance of sprouts. Until this point, ventilate the young animals for 30 minutes twice a day.

When the shoots just appear, you should water carefully so as not to nail the tender shoots to the ground. This can be done with a teaspoon or a pipette.

On too sunny and hot days, the sprouts need shading.

Picking is done in 6x6 cm pots after one and a half to two months, when 2-3 true leaves have grown. Further care consists of moderate watering, loosening and gradual hardening. Plants with 3-4 carved leaves can be planted in open ground at the age of 2.5 months.

Buying ready-made seedlings

When purchasing ready-made planting material, you need to pay attention to:

size and development of the sprout: seedlings must have at least 3 true leaves;
condition of the root system: the roots should be light, more than 6 cm long, they should be visible from the drainage hole of the pot;
presence of a heart.

Planting in open ground

Selecting a location and preparing beds

When planning your site, you should remember that strawberries love well-lit areas. It is better to choose a place for culture that is flat or with a slight slope oriented to the southwest. Groundwater should not be higher than one and a half meters. You should also follow the rules of crop rotation and take into account the proximity to other crops. Useful predecessors of strawberries are carrots, bulbous plants, beets, garlic, and legumes. You cannot replant in one place, or plant after eggplants, tomatoes and potatoes. Among its neighbors it prefers radishes, lettuce, peas, and marigolds. It is better to avoid close planting with nightshades, sunflowers and Jerusalem artichokes.

After choosing a place, you should prepare the soil: dig the bed to a depth of 30 cm, remove the weed rhizomes. Next, the soil is fertilized with humus (a bucket per square meter) and left for two weeks.

Planting is carried out in two ways: carpet or rows. The choice of one of them depends on the size of the allocated area, the characteristics of the variety and the convenience for gardeners. With the carpet method, seedlings are placed in a checkerboard pattern, the distance between neighbors should be 25-30 cm. When planting in lines, a bed 60-70 cm wide is formed, and 2 rows of plants are planted along it. The distance between adjacent bushes in the same row is 30 cm. It is also possible to grow individual varieties vertically on a trellis or in a column.

You can immediately plant under covering material to protect the crop from fungus, weeds, drying out or freezing. To do this, you should spread the required amount of canvas and press it down along the edges with bricks or sprinkle it with earth, make cross-shaped cuts in it for the seedlings.

Landing

You can replant sprouts when there is no active sun: in cloudy weather, and on clear days - in the morning and evening. For each plant, prepare holes with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of up to 25 cm. Place 1 tbsp in them. l. ash and superphosphate, which should be sprinkled with fertile soil and poured generously from a watering can.

The plants are replanted together with a lump of earth. For better adaptation, the roots of the seedlings are dipped in a solution of heteroauxin (a tablet for 5 liters of water) or sprinkled with Kornevin. When planting, buds, flowers and berries are removed so that all the energy goes into rooting. The heart cannot be buried: the growing point must be at ground level. After replanting, be sure to water the bed to compact the soil and straighten the roots.

If there are wilted seedlings during the first days, they should be removed to avoid rotting of the remaining plants. In hot sun conditions, strawberries should be shaded with a special net for a week after planting.

Strawberry care

Care consists of watering, mulching, protecting from diseases and pests, applying fertilizers, and preparing the plant for winter. To saturate the roots with oxygen, strawberries are loosened after rains 6-8 times per season. When aerial roots appear, the plant should be earthed up.

To prevent overgrowth, you need to remove weeds and excess tendrils every 10-12 days.

Watering

Water strawberries early in the morning or in the evening - until 18 o'clock. It is necessary to ensure that the soil is always moistened to a depth of 20-30 cm. This is especially important in the first days of planting and during the flowering period. If there is a lack of moisture, the berries will be small. However, excess water also negatively affects strawberries: they are affected by gray rot, the berries become watery and tasteless. To maintain optimal humidity levels, it is recommended to use drip irrigation systems.

Mulching

Mulching with straw, mown grass, sawdust, peat or pine needles will help make caring for the beds easier. The layer of mulch should be at least 5 cm. It prevents overheating and excessive cooling of the soil at night, will protect the soil from drying out, the berries will not rot, and the soil will remain loose and weed-free.

During the fruiting period, if there is no mulch, to protect against gray rot, you can tie the berries to pegs or place them on stands: bricks, boards.

Top dressing

Remontant strawberries require fertilization. There are four mandatory feedings: the first - in the spring, immediately after the snow melts, the second - during the appearance of flower stalks, the third - during flowering, the fourth - in mid-August. In addition, in order to get a rich harvest, it is possible to additionally fertilize the soil, but not more often than once every two weeks. To replenish the crop's need for nitrogen, add a water infusion of manure (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20). The fertilizer is infused for 5–7 days and the plants are watered with it, 1 liter per bush. This must be done before the 20th of July. Then exclude it - otherwise active growth will begin in the cold. Then water with the mixture: 30 g of superphosphate per bucket of water, half a glass of ash. Let it sit for a day and add a liter to the root.

Update bushes

Strawberries bear fruit well in one bed for 4 years, after which the crop needs to be transferred and renewed. In order not to be left without a harvest, this can be done gradually: every year, replant a quarter of the plantation to a new location. With the carpet planting method, you will have to change the place every 2 years.

Preparing for winter

After the end of the main fruiting period in September, the bushes are pruned. This must be done in such a way that the plant has time to grow young leaves before frost. Remove old leaves, peduncles and tendrils. If they are affected by pests or diseases, it is better to burn them.

Strawberry propagation

Usami

For propagation by mustaches, it is better to choose two-year-old bushes that have proven themselves well last season: healthy and strong, with large and tasty fruits. No more than 5 layerings are taken from the queen cell. To get strong shoots, after the first wave of berries, the selected plants should not be allowed to bear fruit. You need to wait until the mustache sprouts roots and dig them in. Only the first rosette is taken from the shoot, the rest are removed. You can cut off a shoot from the mother plant only when it has formed at least 3, and preferably 5-7 leaves. In August, the rosettes are planted on a special spreading bed at a distance of 15 cm from each other. The next year they are transferred to a permanent place, the young growth will already produce a harvest.

Dividing the bush

Remontant strawberries, especially their beardless form, can be propagated by dividing the bush. This can be done in spring or August. The plant must be large and have several growing points. The selected bush is dug up, the roots are shaken off the soil and divided into several parts by hand so that each has light roots and a heart. When planting, it is recommended to treat the plot with preparations that stimulate root formation.

Sowing seeds in open ground

Small-fruited varieties can be propagated by their own seeds: sprinkle them on top of the garden bed and water. Often such strawberries reproduce by self-sowing.

Diseases of remontant strawberries and their prevention

Like ordinary strawberries, the remontant variety is susceptible to diseases; it is loved by garden pests such as weevils, slugs, nematodes, ants and strawberry mites. The fruits may be eaten by blackbirds and jays.

You can assess the health of a bush by the condition of the foliage. It should be an even green color and not curl. If the leaves dry out, this is a sign of late blight. If they are covered with a white coating and curl, the plant is affected by powdery mildew. White or brown spots indicate fungal diseases.

Remontant strawberries bear fruit throughout the summer, so pesticides cannot be used against pests and diseases. To prevent diseases, spray with garlic infusion or Bordeaux mixture; after rain, the bushes are sprinkled with ash. Every 10 days you can treat the leaves with an infusion of dandelion tops (for 10 liters of water 40° - 500 g of greens, leave for 2 hours).

One of the most common problems that take away the strawberry harvest is gray rot. The berries become soft, covered with a mold-like coating, and rot. To prevent gray rot, plants are sprayed 2-3 times before flowering with an iodine solution (dissolve 10 ml of iodine in 10 liters of water). This remedy is also effective against weevil infestation of flower stalks.

To combat slugs, you can sprinkle potassium salt around the bushes. If the berries dry out or become ugly, and the leaves curl and curl, the strawberries are affected by a nematode or strawberry mite, the diseased plants will have to be dug up and burned.

Remontant strawberries, or remontant garden strawberries, have recently become increasingly popular both among summer residents and those who grow them on an industrial scale for sale. This plant is capable of producing two or even three harvests per season. Despite the fact that the bushes of this plant are somewhat smaller than those of ordinary strawberries, its berries are no worse in taste, and sometimes even better than the usual berries.

A distinctive feature of remontant strawberries is the ability to quickly form young buds and form a new crop immediately after harvesting the previous one. A large harvest, and sometimes more than a few, is ensured by increased labor costs. Caring for this plant does not end with harvesting. It is interrupted only in winter.

The rhythm of life of strawberries depends on the length of daylight hours. Regular strawberries form new buds only from late August to mid-September. Unusual, that is, remontant strawberries are capable of forming buds of future flowers even during long or neutral daylight hours. It is this circumstance that forces gardeners to work more intensively in the hope of a large harvest.

The disadvantage of garden strawberries is their rapid aging. And this is understandable: two or three harvests per season take a lot of energy from the plant and reduce its potential. Signs of aging include shredding of berries and leaves. If measures are not taken, entire strawberry bushes may die. For this reason, plant care is aimed primarily at the constant rejuvenation of strawberry plantings.

Principles of caring for remontant strawberries

In order to ensure several high harvests per season, the following rules must be followed.

First of all, you need to decide how to plant your strawberries. This planning stage is extremely important because the strawberries need to have room to spread their tendrils. Planting should be done in such a way that it is convenient for the shoots to take root. The square-nest method is best suited for this.
Most often, planting is done in the spring, but this is explained not so much by special agrotechnical considerations as by the fact that seedlings are usually sold in the spring. However, in the fall you can replant strawberries from thickened areas or from tendrils that have taken root in the wrong place. In order to decide how to plant strawberries in such conditions, it is necessary to first redesign the beds, taking into account changes in their shape and area.
Spring planting of seedlings takes place in mid-May. Later plantings are also possible, but in this case one cannot expect a harvest from these plantings in the same summer.
Remontant strawberries suffer the most from diseases and pests, have increased demands on soil conditions, and require frequent watering. It needs to be looked after especially carefully.
This variety of strawberries should only be watered with warm water. Unheated water directly from the tap can only be watered in the evening in very hot weather. In this case, the water quickly heats up from the hot soil and does not have a depressing effect on the plants.
The soil around the strawberry bushes needs to be loosened. This is especially true after heavy watering.
Newly planted strawberries must be mulched with dry grass, peat, tree leaves, and sawdust. It is not advisable to mulch old beds, since the soil layer will interfere with the rooting of the mustaches. For the same reason, difficulties arise when using film.
Strawberries, which have been growing in the beds for a long time, need feeding. This is best done with watering. This way the effect of the fertilizer comes faster.
Caring for remontant strawberries consists not only of creating conditions for the rooting of the mustache, but also of removing them. Pruning the mustache is a prevention of excessive thickening of the beds, which contributes to a decrease in yield.

Autumn plant care

If there is no need to transplant strawberries to new beds in the fall, then it is best at this time to start preparing areas for future plantings in the spring. Strawberries are an aggressive crop; they can severely deplete the soil in a few years, so care must be taken to properly prepare the soil.

It is better to prepare such a bed at the end of August or at the beginning of September. It is undesirable to dig up the ground right before frost, since all its disturbed inhabitants will not have time to prepare for winter and hibernate. As a result, this area will lose earthworms, wild bees, and bumblebees, which spend the winter in earthen burrows. Future strawberries need soil looseners and pollinators. If you dig up the soil before the onset of cold weather, when arthropods are still active, then gardeners' allies will have time to prepare for winter.

A long-term harvest in one place can be guaranteed by a supply of organic matter in the soil. Before the initial formation of the bed, it is necessary to dig a trench in its place, at the bottom of which a layer of grass should be laid, preferably not dry, covered with a layer of manure, if necessary (if the soil is obviously poor) sprinkled with mineral fertilizers on top and covered with a layer of soil from the trench.

A bed prepared in this way will ensure a good harvest of strawberries without fertilizing for at least five years in advance.

Autumn care for remontant strawberries is to enable the plants to prepare for the dormant period as effectively as possible.

Preparing for winter also means removing all unnecessary things that will prevent the strawberries from gaining strength for the winter and effective development in the spring. To do this, it is necessary to prune late flowers, which obviously will no longer bear fruit. Flowers consume a lot of useful substances that the plant could store and mobilize in the spring. In addition, it is necessary to trim late mustaches that no longer have time to take root.

In harsh winter climates, all strawberry beds must be covered. Any material that protects not so much from frost, but from wind and temperature changes, is suitable for this. The ideal cover is a layer of leaves or grass laid down before the first snowfall. However, this fur coat is difficult to remove in the spring. In addition, mice like to live in this layer, which dig tunnels and damage strawberries. So it is better to use plastic film.