How to process remontant strawberries in the fall. Remontant strawberries: planting and care, cultivation and diseases

Such a garden plant as the remontant strawberry began to be found in the garden beds of non-professional gardeners quite recently. Due to its recent introduction into widespread use, not all gardeners know how to properly care for an unusual varietal berry, and out of habit they carry out the same manipulations with the plant as for ordinary strawberries. However, in this way, gardeners do not allow the plant to reveal its potential, and as a result, they do not receive enough potential harvest. In this material we will tell you what kind of treatment remontant strawberries require, care in the fall, as well as manipulations performed at other times of the year, we will discuss in detail separately.

What is a remontant strawberry and how is it different from a traditional garden berry?

First, let's understand the meaning of the word “repairable”. This term refers to garden plants that have the ability to bear fruit multiple times during one growing season.

So, in this case we are talking about strawberries, however, some varieties are also characterized by such high yields:

strawberries;
raspberries;
domestic flowers (multiple flowering);
other garden plants.

Strawberry is a large-fruited berry, which we are all accustomed to designating this way, however, if we talk about its scientific name, then in this material we will talk about large-fruited garden strawberries. However, for ease of understanding, we will focus on the designation “strawberry”.

Agrotechnics of cultivation

All varieties of garden strawberries available today to gardeners and gardeners can be divided into two groups:

regular;
remontant.

Despite the serious differences in their growing season, the methods of cultivation and care for each species are similar in many ways, because, in fact, these plants are the closest relatives. However, in this material we will not talk about general features, but, on the contrary, about the differences that need to be taken into account in order to obtain a solid harvest.

On average, the number of fruitings of a remontant berry in one season is two units, however, if certain conditions are met, the harvest can be obtained 3, or even 4 times. The final quantity will depend on when the so-called fruit barrels are laid in the plants.

Thus, an ordinary garden berry produces the process of forming the mentioned barrels only during that period of the year when daylight hours become short, that is:

at the end of the summer season;
at the beginning of autumn.

A remontant plant variety successfully carries out this process:

during a long daylight period (bud formation at a temperature of + 15°C and a daylength of 14-17 hours);
during neutral daylight hours (bud formation by periods, every 5-6 weeks at temperatures from +2 to +30°C).

Remontant strawberries of neutral daylight hours must be present for every berry lover, since in the conditions of a “failed” season, which is not so rare due to the severity and unpredictability of the climatic conditions of Russia, ordinary strawberries may not bear fruit, but the mentioned remontant variety with the ovary will continue to gain comfort. And it will continue to do this until the onset of frost.

The second harvest of traditional remontant strawberries is the most abundant; depending on the age of each bush, it can account for up to 90% of the total harvest collected during the growing season.

Note: Unfortunately, remontant strawberries, which bear fruit especially actively in a particular season, may not be able to withstand the load and die off by the fall. You need to know this feature and be ready to replace outdated bushes with new ones.

Quick grinding of berries is a disadvantage of the variety of strawberries under consideration, however, it is more than compensated for by abundant primary harvests

Another interesting feature of remontant strawberries is that they can form fruits:

on mother plants;
young rooted mustache.

This is an excellent opportunity to get more berries than you expected, however, provided that the beds are covered with garden film, the mustache will have to make its way in the literal sense: making holes in the fabric.

It’s not for nothing that the variety of strawberries we are considering is considered large-fruited. One berry of such a plant can reach 75 grams; record-breaking varieties sometimes delight gardeners with berries weighing 100 grams.

In the table below, we have systematized for readers who are passionate about gardening information about the characteristics of the remontant variety of berries, which should be taken into account when deciding on its cultivation. Let's look at them.

Table 1. Features of growing remontant strawberries

Nuance	Description
Accelerated growth and fruiting cycle	Unfortunately, due to the high load (active fruiting), strawberries of the variety in question cannot bear fruit for as many years as ordinary strawberries. So, its shorter terms will be: no more than three years for long-day varieties; no more than a year for day-neutral varieties.
Harvest sacrifice	Another feature: in order to get a second harvest of remontant berries a little earlier and in greater volume, you will have to sacrifice the peduncles of the spring period. It is advisable to cut them all off. If your goal is to collect whiskers for the sake of reproduction, you will have to abandon, on the contrary, the second harvest.
Rapid onset of old age and weakening of plants	Strawberries of day-neutral varieties, due to heavy loads, quickly age and, consequently, become smaller. It turns out that in the first year you will collect large fruits, in the second only small ones. To avoid disappointment, you must: in August, plant seedlings of the variety in a new bed; remove all flower stalks that arise after the berry has taken root until the beds are covered with snow.
Removing bushes at the end of the season	Day-neutral varieties are recommended to be removed from the beds after the fruiting season to allow the soil to rest and gain nutrients.
Mulching beds	Remontant strawberries are required in the process of growing mulching beds, using: dry leaves; straw; wood shavings; weeds without seeds; hay, etc.
Covering beds	Strawberries of the variety in question involve the use of organic growing methods. Leaving them naked is prohibited. If you do not mulch the soil, cover it in other ways.

As you can see, there were quite a few important nuances. Other points regarding planting must be taken into account based on what variety of remontant strawberries you chose for planting. Let's state the basic rules.

Rule 1. Planting of berries should be carried out in well-lit areas, otherwise:

plants will not be able to gain strength;
the harvested crop will be small and few in number.

Rule 2. The distance between bushes should be from 40 to 50 centimeters, between rows 60 centimeters.

Rule 3. It is best to plant garlic between the bushes, which will protect the strawberries from attack by slugs.

Prices for remontant strawberry seeds

remontant strawberry seeds

A large number of questions regarding the care of strawberries arise specifically in the autumn period. To consider the features of the procedures carried out in preparation for the winter period, let's remember what care measures are generally applicable to the plant we have designated.

1. Loosening the soil in which strawberries grow is the gardener's No. 1 responsibility. Thanks to this manual plowing of the soil, oxygen flows through its layers to the roots of the plant. Like a person, strawberries cannot exist without him, just as they cannot reproduce.

2. Soil mulching - laying any plant matter on the ground for:

her protection;
improving nutritional properties.

Note: After mulching has been carried out, there is no longer any need to loosen the soil.

3. Watering strawberries of the variety we are interested in should be done frequently and abundantly; for it, it is better to use water from barrels that have reached ambient temperature, since too cold water is harmful to 4. To increase the volume of the harvest, it is necessary to feed the berries with various natural or industrial means, as well as process her from:

diseases typical of strawberries;
pests.

4. It is imperative to weed the berries, except in cases where the row spacing is covered with mulching cloth. Please note: while weeding you must:

remove mustache;
tear off reddened leaves.

With one exception: If we are talking about processing NSD varieties, the mustache can be left, since they also bear fruit.

5. Strawberry pruning is also a must. However, with great care, because an inexperienced gardener can easily damage the growing point. To prevent this from happening, remove only the leaf blades using any sharp tool. The procedure is carried out after the first harvest.

So which of the listed procedures should be carried out with strawberries in the autumn?

Firstly, this plant has a very negative effect on the soil, sucking out all the beneficial substances from it, so your first action should be to prepare the beds. It is carried out as follows.

1. Long before frost, soil that was not previously occupied or occupied by another crop is dug up. We can’t wait until it gets colder because the inhabitants of the soil won’t have time to properly prepare and sleep, and will eventually die, and then there will be no one to eat our strawberries:

pollinate;
hill up by natural loosening of the soil.

2. Before forming a bed, a small depression in the form of a trench is dug in the prepared soil, onto the bottom of which the following is laid layer by layer:

wet grass (lawn or weeds without seeds);
manure;
mineral fertilizers;
dug ground.

Such a supply of organic matter will give you an excellent harvest and prevent the development of any diseases characteristic of strawberries, due to the fact that it will initially receive enough energy and strength. This abundant fertilizer will last for the next 5 years.

3. It is imperative to trim late flowers and tendrils of strawberries that have not had time to take root, as well as leaves, exactly according to the scheme described above. The fact is that these plant formations use up a large amount of plant energy, which it is better for them to save until next year.

4. Strawberries are planted on the prepared bed, taking into account the distance between the rows and bushes. Winter garlic is also immediately planted in the rows.

5. After preparation, the bed should be covered with a layer of some protective material, for example, polyethylene, since it is easy to remove in the spring, and in organic protection mice can break through passages, damaging the bushes.

However, if for some reason you prefer organic covering, you should use:

dry leaves;
straw.

Let's sum it up

Skin care procedures carried out in the fall are determined by many factors, for example:

will the strawberry bushes survive the winter;
will they produce a harvest?
will the berry be large?
how abundant the fruit harvest will be, etc.

Don’t be lazy and purchase enough manure and mineral fertilizers. Even if you move your strawberry beds year after year, fertilizing the soil will have a beneficial effect on other crops.

As for collecting mulch, it can be done right on your site, or you can purchase straw from the farmers who collect it. The price of such autumn preparation is not high, but you will have to work hard. However, all your efforts will pay off when you harvest.

Video – Remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberries are capable of bearing fruit several times a year. Because of this feature, remontant strawberry varieties require special care and growing methods.

Remontant strawberries differ from ordinary strawberries in the time of fruit bud formation. In ordinary strawberries, fruit buds are formed during short daylight hours, and in remontant strawberries, during neutral or long ones. Therefore, remontant varieties, when grown in open ground, bear fruit twice a season: the first time in July, and the second time at the end of August/beginning of September.

The second harvest may be much larger than the first. It can even account for up to 90% of the total number of berries per bush per season, although most often this figure approaches the 60% mark.

Remontant varieties are large-fruited. The weight of 1 berry in some cases can even reach 100 grams. On average, the weight of 1 berry varies from 20 to 75 grams, depending on the variety.

In the absence of special care, already in the second year of growth of the bush, the berries are small and sparse, and in the third year the plant most often dies.

Soil preparation

It is better to grow these varieties of strawberries in the area where crops such as carrots, parsley, garlic, radishes, beets or legumes previously grew. At the same time, it is not recommended to plant this crop after potatoes or cucumbers (as well as after tomatoes and cabbage). In addition, it is better not to grow this plant next to raspberries.

The area chosen for planting should be in direct sunlight. In addition, the soil on the site should be level and free of bumps and depressions. Location in lowlands is not allowed.

It is best if the garden bed has sandy or loamy soil. Peat soil, like sod-podzolic soil, is not suitable for growing this crop.

The soil for planting should be either slightly acidic or neutral. It is necessary to prepare the soil for planting in advance. If the crop is planned to be planted in the spring, then preparation is carried out in the fall; if planting will be done in the fall, then the soil is prepared in the spring or summer.

At the beginning of preparation, it is necessary to dig up the ground with a pitchfork and level it with a rake. During digging, it is necessary to remove weed roots and also add fertilizer. As such fertilizers, you can use humus or compost in the amount of 1 bucket per square meter of land. It is also necessary to add 5 kg of wood ash to the soil (the figure is based on 10 square meters).

Once the soil has been fertilized, dug up and leveled, it can be left until planting. A month before the intended planting of the bushes, it is necessary to add potassium sulfate (in the amount of 20 g) to the soil with the addition of superphosphate, which must be taken twice as much as potassium sulfate (the numbers are based on each square meter). After applying the fertilizer, the soil is dug up again.

Planting seedlings

With different planting methods, care also differs. The timing of planting each type of strawberry may also differ.

Dates and methods of planting

Planting in the ground is carried out in the autumn or in the spring. For the southern regions, it is preferable to plant seedlings in the ground in early September, while for the northern regions it is preferable to plant seedlings in the spring months, but not earlier than May.

For central Russia, it is preferable to choose the autumn months, from the beginning of August to the end of September, but it is also possible in the beginning of spring - from the end of March to mid-April.

You should focus on the temperature regime: the optimal air temperature when planting seedlings is 15-25 degrees Celsius.

Methods of planting seedlings in the ground

carpet;
nesting;
private.

With the nesting method, the distance between plants is set at least half a meter. This method of planting seedlings is suitable for varieties that throw out tendrils. This planting method allows you to get not only a good harvest, but also high-quality planting material.

The advantage of this planting method is that the plants do not come into contact with each other, which means they do not infect each other when diseases occur. In addition, the bushes are well lit, as they do not shade each other.

Among the disadvantages are unused areas of land, of which there are quite a lot with this planting method, since the distance between the bushes is approximately 50 cm.

The distance between strawberry bushes is set to 20 cm - this is with the carpet method. Moreover, 20 cm is not only the distance between the bushes of the 1st row, but also the distance between the rows.

With the row method of planting this crop, a larger distance between the rows is provided - up to 70 cm, while the distance between the bushes remains the same - from 20 to 25 cm. The bushes will grow over time, at the same time the area of the plantation will increase.

Caring for planted spring seedlings

Seedlings planted in early spring need shelter. The bed can be mulched with straw, or covered with pine needles or sawdust, or even agrofibre.

Mulching is necessary to retain moisture in the soil, which will allow you to water the plantation a little less often.

Caring for seedlings planted in spring also includes removing weeds from the plantation, loosening the soil and regular watering.

Caring for planted autumn seedlings and preparing for winter

When planting in autumn, it is necessary to remove all first-order tendrils. After planting in the ground, the bushes need regular watering to ensure sufficient soil moisture. It should be remembered that planting should occur no later than 3 weeks before the first frost. After the seedlings have endured the first frost, all leaves should be removed from the bushes and the strawberry bushes should be covered with covering material.

Methods of growing in open ground

There are many ways to grow this crop. For small summer cottages, non-standard planting methods have been specially developed, which greatly save space on the site.

On the ground in the beds

Among the classic ones, two methods of planting can be distinguished:

one-liner:
two-line.

With the one-line method, the distance between the rows is maintained at least 60 cm, and with the two-line method - no more than 30. The one-line planting method is safer for plants, since they do not contact each other and, accordingly, cannot infect each other.

The two-line planting method increases yields because the soil is used more efficiently.

For small areas, there are other ways to plant remontant strawberries in open ground, for example, the vertical method or “in bags.”

Vertical method

With the vertical method, strawberries are planted in pots, cut pipes, tires, boxes or any other containers that can be placed vertically. At the same time, space is greatly saved, since pots with bushes can be placed vertically on several floors. But in this case, care becomes a little more complicated.

"In bags"

When planting in bags, plastic bags are used in which soil is placed, and seedlings are planted in it. Such bags are hung vertically, which also saves space. Holes are made for plants.

Under covering material

Planting a bush of this crop under covering material makes caring for the plant much easier. Growing strawberries in this way allows you to create a microclimate in which the soil does not dry out, but at the same time, due to the lack of sunlight, weeds do not grow under the agrofibre.

In addition, due to the constant humidity under the covering material, earthworms begin to actively live and loosen the soil, so caring for strawberries planted in this way is much simpler.

The berries do not come into direct contact with the soil and this has a beneficial effect on the quality of the product. Therefore, growing remontant strawberries under covering material is a fairly progressive way to get high yields at fairly low costs.

Caring for remontant strawberries during the active growing season

The number of bushes, the quality of the root system and, as a result, the number and size of berries collected from one bush per season depend on the quality and correct care of the plant.

Watering and fertilizing

During the growing season, sufficient attention should be paid to soil moisture. If there is a lack of moisture in the soil, insufficient formation of the ovary or the formation of fruits of irregular shape may occur. All this has a detrimental effect on the quantity and quality of the harvest. Therefore, watering should be regular.

Mulching open areas of land around bushes will help reduce the costs associated with regular soil irrigation. This will lead to moisture retention in the soil, which in turn will allow the plantation to be watered less frequently.

In spring it is necessary to fertilize the soil. For this purpose, ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate are used. Their quantity is calculated based on the formula: 15 g of substance per 1 square meter of soil.

This calculation is correct for both types of fertilizers. Superphosphate is also used for feeding. Per square meter it is needed twice as much as potassium sulfate.

Pruning remontant strawberries

During the growing season it is necessary to trim the mustache. This should be done throughout the spring and summer period. If you plan to grow new shoots, then the mustaches are not cut, but dug in, and thus by August there will already be young bushes that are ready for replanting. In autumn, pruning of leaves and tendrils is carried out.

All red, blackened, dried or infected shoots are removed. In this way, the bush prepares for wintering in order to more easily endure the winter cold.

What and how affects the quality of the crop

The quality and quantity of the harvest is affected by proper care of bushes and young shoots. The amount of harvest is greatly influenced by the regularity of watering and the absence of pests and diseases in the plant. In addition, the benefits of regular feeding should not be underestimated. During the growing season, fertilizing can be done twice a month.

Also, the correct trimming of the mustache has a great influence on the quality of the harvest. Because young shoots require a lot of effort to take root.

In the absence of proper care for the bushes, the strawberries will be few and small.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

Propagation of remontant strawberry varieties is carried out in at least three ways:

growing from seeds;
by dividing the bush;
and with the help of a mustache.

Growing seedlings from seeds

When growing strawberries from seeds, the purest varieties are obtained. This planting method is very labor-intensive, since it is carried out in the spring and lasts for several months.

Seeds must be prepared in advance. Preparations must begin as early as February, and only in mid-May will the seedlings be ready and need to be planted in the beds.

Dividing the bush

The method of propagating remontant strawberries by dividing the bush is resorted to in case of an insufficient number of seedlings or when it is necessary to quickly move part of the plantation to another place. To grow strawberries using this method, you need strong and healthy plants. Therefore, they choose either two-year-old or four-year-old bushes. Their root system should be strong and healthy.

At 4 years of age, the bush has several dozen shoots of horns. Each horn is already well developed, has lateral buds and formed leaves. In addition, it has well-developed adventitious roots. Such plants can be planted only in spring, or in emergency cases - in early autumn. Having dug such bushes from the ground, they must be divided and planted immediately.

After transplanting, it is necessary to water the plants daily. If it is scorching hot outside at this time, it is necessary to provide the young seedlings with constant shade.

Reproduction by mustache

Propagation by mustache is an economical method, which is the easiest in terms of labor costs. In addition, new bushes obtained in this way give a harvest next year.

However, when propagating strawberries using this method, it is necessary to sacrifice the second harvest of the season. The fact is that the strawberry bush spends energy either on the formation of berries, or on the development and rooting of the mustache. Therefore, if you want to obtain high-quality planting material, you must refuse to obtain a second harvest.

For propagation in this way, annual bushes are selected that, at the first fruiting, produced large, even berries. The first tendrils that appear must be spread around the bush, giving them the opportunity to take root. Whiskers that appear later must simply be removed.

By August the young bushes will be ready. A week before moving them to a new place, it is necessary to trim the mustache that connects them to the mother bush. Young bushes are transplanted to a new location using a small spatula.

It is advisable to move the bushes with a small lump of earth, this way the root system will suffer less and the plant will more easily tolerate replanting.

Autumn preparation for winter

Autumn preparation involves removing everything that could prevent the bush from overwintering normally and bearing fruit with renewed vigor starting in the new season. This means removing any runners that have not taken root, as well as any damaged, reddened or weak leaves.

In addition, in harsh winters, any strawberries must be covered. It is better to choose a material whose density is about 60 grams per square meter. Agrofibre, spunbond or any other material is suitable for these purposes.

Mulch, pine needles, leaves or grass are also used to cover strawberries. Although this method appears to be more economical than purchasing fiber, there are a number of disadvantages to using it. In this case, mice may appear in the shelter, which are enemies of strawberries. They damage shoots and dig tunnels.

When covering a strawberry plantation, it is better to opt for special covering materials or thick plastic film.

Varieties of remontant strawberries

There are several dozen varieties of remontant strawberries. Only a few of them will be described below.

Autumn fun

This variety was popular back in Soviet times; it was one of the first to be included in the Soviet DSD selection. The bush of this variety bears fruit twice a season, with proper care. The berries are small in size, their weight most often does not exceed 20 g. The taste of the berries is quite sweet; the fruits of this variety of strawberries are used to create all kinds of desserts. The pulp of this species is quite dense, so they are often used for freezing.

This variety is propagated with the help of mustaches, of which the bush produces a lot during the season. The variety is also resistant to attacks by fungal infections and strawberry mites.

Russian size

This variety is distinguished by large fruits. Moreover, it is frost-resistant and therefore suitable for cultivation in more northern regions. The berries are very juicy, the plants are resistant to diseases.

Galya Chiv

A fairly new hybrid variety, bred in Italy, which is characterized by high productivity. The average weight of one berry is about 45 g. The color of the berries is bright red, in addition, they are distinguished by their high sugar content.

Vima Rina

This is a Dutch variety; it lays fruit buds during neutral daylight hours. Vima Rina practically does not produce antennae, so it is propagated in other ways. This variety bears fruit starting from the second half of June and continues until the first frost.

The color of Vima Rin's berries is deep red, darker than those of other varieties. The fruits are large, weighing up to 75 g. The taste of this strawberry is sweet and soft, and the density of the berries is low (they are not suitable for freezing).

Diamond

Diamond is an American variety. At the moment it is considered the best among all varieties of remontant strawberries.

This species is propagated using a mustache.

Selva

This variety is one of the best. Firstly, it is very highly productive, and secondly, it has excellent taste. Large fruits, reaching 50 g, are dark red in color, and have light flesh inside.

Queen Elizabeth 2

For Queen Elizabeth II, the weight of 1 berry can reach record figures of up to 110 grams. This is a very frost-resistant variety and produces its first fruits quite early.

Novel

This hybrid variety has pink flowers. This feature makes it easy to distinguish Roman from other types of remontant strawberries.

This variety can be grown in protected soil. With proper care, it can bear fruit for up to 10 months a year. The berries are not large - up to 25 grams.

Lyubasha

Lyubasha is unpretentious, frost-resistant, has small, dark red fruits. Most often it is used for vertical cultivation, since the berries are formed not only on bushes, but also on rosettes.

Diseases and pests

Among the main enemies of remontant strawberries are:

spider mite;
ants;
mouse;
gray rot.

To combat ants, you need to water the strawberries with water to which a little vegetable oil or boric acid has been added.

To combat spider mites, it is necessary to achieve sufficient moisture in the land area, since they reproduce well in a dry environment.

Mice need to be controlled with carboxylic acid. It is necessary to create a solution (25 grams of acid is used for 10 liters of water) and pour it into the holes.

To combat gray mold, it is necessary to regularly care for the garden bed. If there are damaged bushes or berries, they must be removed in a timely manner, and the berries must not be allowed to come into contact with the ground, as this is what causes the berries to spoil.

This article described the characteristics of the growth of remontant strawberries, and also covered in detail the issues of caring for them. One of the most important factors for obtaining the desired result is the correct choice of variety. Before planting remontant strawberries, it is advisable to try several varieties and find the one whose taste is closest to the desired one.

Reading time: 9 minutes

Specialist with 7 years of experience in horticultural crops

There are varieties that produce crops continuously - up to 3 times a year. Even with excellent material, achieving maximum results is not easy. Only special attention and careful care will help increase productivity and enjoy the strawberry taste of the fruit from early spring to late autumn.

What are remontant strawberries?

Remontant varieties differ from those familiar to gardeners by bearing fruit without interruption. One harvest cycle gives way to another, and if you take care of the material, it is quite possible to harvest up to 3-4 harvests per season. The advantages of the crop do not end there; gardeners highlight several more positive qualities:

early fruiting - it will bloom and form an ovary 2 weeks earlier than usual varieties;
frost resistance;
large fruits;
variety of tastes, shades, shapes of berries;
resistance to pests and diseases.

Harvest of remontant strawberries

There are drawbacks - they significantly complicate the care of remontant strawberries. These include:

significant demands on watering, lighting, fertilizers;
mandatory transplant after 2-3 years;
Possibility of growing only seedlings.

Based on the size of the fruits, small-fruited and large-fruited varieties are distinguished. Representatives of the first group are resistant to low temperatures, do not form whiskers, and therefore reproduce exclusively by seeds. They bear fruit continuously throughout the season, are not capricious, and are easy to care for.

Large-fruited strawberries form many tendrils, produce 2-3 harvests, after which they age in just a year. The best remontant varieties:

Super-production;
Arapaho;
Temptation;
Rapella;
Bordurella;
Evi 2;
Diva F1;
Crimean;
Queen Elizabeth 2;
San Andreas;
Monterey;
Ruyana;
Forest fairy tale;
Ali Baba;
White dream.

Caring for remontant strawberries

Growing remontant strawberries is not difficult. These varieties are rarely called capricious, but some nuances of care are preserved. Considering them, you will get a pleasant harvest. Don't skip any steps. Equally important:

watering;
fertilization;
loosening the soil;
mulching;
getting rid of weeds;
pest control;
treatment of diseases;
pruning;
preparation for the winter period.

Watering

Watering strawberries

Soil moisture is more important for remontant species than for ordinary ones. In dry times, special attention should be paid to this. After transplanting, the bushes need to be watered daily. After a week, watering can be reduced to 1 time/2 days, and over time increased to 2 times a month. Lack of moisture will lead to the formation of fewer ovaries or deformed fruits.

You need to water the beds with warm water (20–25 °C). A rain barrel made from a dark-colored barrel will do - it will heat up on its own. It is important to ensure that the soil is moistened 2–3 cm deep. The procedure is carried out in the morning or evening, when there is no heat. When you can’t water the plants often, simply mulch the soil around the bushes. This will retain valuable moisture and reduce the amount of watering.

Mulching and loosening

Strawberries mulched with straw

When caring for remontant strawberries, experienced gardeners recommend mulching the soil. The procedure has a number of advantages:

prevents ripe berries from contacting the ground and rotting;
retains moisture in the soil, reducing the amount of watering;
allows air to reach the roots - there is no need to loosen the soil;
prevents weeds from germinating.

As mulch, feel free to use sawdust, straw, spruce branches, humus, hay, mown grass, and agrofibre. Carry out the procedure immediately after watering or the next day. Instead of mulching, for example, during rains, the soil can be loosened. This must be done very carefully. The roots are located close to the soil surface and are easily damaged.

You also need to weed the beds carefully. In addition to the roots, you can damage your mustache. The main task of weeding and loosening is to prevent the appearance of crust on the ground and ensure aeration of the roots. Please pay Please note that after mulching it will be easier to care for the plantations - loosening and weeding will no longer be required.

Fertilizer application

Strawberry fertilizer

When caring for remontant strawberries, take care of fertilizing. Frequent fruiting leads to depletion of bushes. To support the culture you will need a lot of micro- and macroelements. What strawberries need most is:

early spring in nitrogen;
during flowering, after fruiting - in potassium.

Phosphorus is also required, but in smaller quantities. It can be applied one-time - during the preparation of the beds. Take superphosphate - 15-20 g/1 sq. m. Application scheme:

By the end of May, urea is added, dissolving 1-2 g in a bucket of water. This dosage is calculated for one square. m of land.
During the period of formation of peduncles for the second fruiting (2nd half of June), the plantations are fertilized with one of 2 means:
- mullein with water (solution - 1:10), consumption - 0.5 liters of mixture per square meter. m of soil;
- bird droppings with water (ratio – 1:15), consumption – 0.3 l/1 sq. m.

Together with organic fertilizers, complex mineral fertilizers are good. Feel free to take drugs that have proven themselves in gardening - Crystallin, Mortar, Kemira Lux, Nitroammofoska. During the season, plantations are fertilized 10–15 times.

Disease and pest control

Strawberry diseases

Pests and diseases are destructive to the delicate plant. What you may have to face when organizing care for remontant strawberries:

When caring, it is necessary to trim the mustache and tops in a timely manner. Organize work in spring/autumn after harvest. In cold areas, autumn pruning is carried out. Better to deal with the bushesimmediately after picking berries. Otherwise, the plant will not have time to acquire new greenery before frost, which will provide it with thermal insulation in winter. If you didn’t have time to trim in time, then it’s better to cancel the treatment altogether.

During the procedure, the mustache and lower foliage are removed without affecting the upper leaves. Fruit buds are laid in them, from which new fruits will form in the next season. After pruning, it is recommended to treat the bushes with insecticides. In order for new leaves to grow faster, the plants are regularly watered and fed with organic fertilizers.

In the northern and central regions, caring for remontant strawberries in the fall involves warming the plantations. Plants are covered with a layer (5 cm) of fallen leaves or manure. They also build a pile of tree branches between the rows. In winter, they will be covered with snow and create natural shelter in the form of snowdrifts.

How to propagate remontant strawberries

When caring for remontant strawberries, many people think about how to propagate them. This is done in one of three ways: by seeds, by rosettes formed on the tendrils, by dividing the bushes. Each of them has its own disadvantages and difficulties.

Seeds

Strawberry seedlings from seeds

The disadvantage of this method is that it is troublesome and labor intensive. But sowing seeds will cost less than buying seedlings. Where can I get seed? Buy or assemble yourself. To do this, fill the blender glass 2/3 with water, add 5-6 strawberries and blend. Grind the resulting mass through a sieve. Transfer the seeds remaining on the surface to a thick cloth and dry for 2 days. Strawberries are grown by seed as follows:

In February, the seed is soaked for 3 days in water or melted snow. The fluid is changed regularly.
The bottom of containers for growing seedlings is filled with a layer of drainage and loose soil. You can buy it or make it yourself by mixing:
- soil from the garden where strawberries grew (25%);
- leaf humus (50%);
- sifted sand (25%).
The soil is moistened, seeds are poured on top and lightly pressed into the soil. Then spray it with a spray bottle, cover it with film (glass) and place it in a room with a temperature of +20-+25˚C.
Watering is carried out in a tray so as not to wash the seed.
After the shoots emerge, the film is removed, and the seedlings are transferred to a lighted place, regularly watered and ventilated.
When the first true leaf appears, the seedlings pick up, maintaining a distance of 2-3 cm. When 4-5 leaves appear, the pick is repeated, the secondary planting pattern is 5x5. They are transplanted both into separate pots and into individual containers.
10-14 days before transplanting into open ground, seedlings are hardened. The containers are taken out into the fresh air, gradually increasing the time spent outside.
At the beginning of May, seedlings are planted in a permanent place.

Usami

Propagation of strawberries by stalons

The disadvantage of this propagation method is that not all varieties of remontant strawberries form mustaches. In addition, the second harvest will have to be sacrificed. Rooting of the mustache is carried out in July-August directly in the garden bed:

During fruiting, the strongest annual bushes with large, even berries are noted.
Furrows are made along the edges of the bed, where the first mustache is laid. The rest are deleted.
After a while, rosettes will appear on them and begin to take root.
The first 2-3 shoots are left, the rest are cut off along with the ends of the mustache. There is no need to separate the young rosettes from the mother bush; they must gain strength.
Next, the shoots are cared for in the same way as the main plant: watered and loosened.
7-10 days before transplantation, the mustache is cut off from the mother bush.
In August, seedlings are planted at a distance of 35 cm. The row spacing is 50 cm. The growth point is located flush with the ground.