Replacement tool holders for benchtop lathe. Home machines

Alexey Orlov 02-01-2008 02:51

And how much if it’s not a secret?

Ular 02-01-2008 03:14

quote: And how much if it’s not a secret?

OSG 02-01-2008 03:23

Is it possible to order a machined part from you?

Vlasenko 02-01-2008 04:03

quote: And how much if it’s not a secret?

It's no secret... The machine itself (model with display) - 21840 wooden,
Steady rests, a rotating center, a chuck for the tailstock, a set of 6 cutters - separately... In total, everything is 25,000....

quote: Is it possible to order a machined part from you?

You have to live to see normal turning... You also need to run it in, measure it, adjust it... Well, and then turn it normally... I'm afraid that all the Christmas holidays will be spent on this...

smix 02-01-2008 10:29

My congratulations, a very necessary thing in the household.
I've been looking for something like this myself for a long time.
Give feedback on the operation of the unit.

Andy 02-01-2008 11:25

Victor, congratulations on your useful acquisition.

I hope that there will be a continuation of the review (I myself use other people’s turning work so rarely that I have no thoughts of purchasing my own machine, but still, I read it with great interest).

Don't call me a bore, but your previews are too big, and the photos themselves are too small. imho

Is the machine itself very noisy?

ivan-3 02-01-2008 15:12

When I first read it, I was shocked that the frame is made of high-carbon steel, I think it’s so high-carbon that it even looks like cast iron
Then I saw from the link that hemp was stolen from the site, so either the translation was not accurate or the Ketais have overtaken the Swiss in mechanical engineering
Those. I think that it’s still cast iron, since steel will be MUCH more expensive even for the Ketais (if they are even capable of making it from steel)

Vlasenko 02-01-2008 16:01

quote: Those. I think it's still cast iron

Naturally cast iron... On almost all machines of this class and higher (in terms of size and weight), the bed is cast from cast iron with subsequent processing...
Are common specifications taken from the Konoplevo page, therefore all the mistakes in the translation to it...
There are quite a lot of clones of these machines and they differ from each other only slightly (design, base, tool holders, tailstocks)... Their main “bottling” apparently comes from the same plant with minor variations.
For example, DIY 0712 is the same egg, but with a base of 300 mm, its sibling is Corvette 401, etc. Moreover, there are no unambiguous parameters for these clones anywhere, i.e. the parameters depend on the specific instance... and the worst thing is that there is no normal technical documentation for them... Until you take it apart and measure it yourself, there will be no clarity... I found a description of the Corvette 401 in Russian on the Internet - at least there are drawings there internals (coincide with mine at the first viewing by 95 percent - maybe more needs to be looked at more carefully...)
From those. documentation that came with the machine, in addition to the user manual (corresponds to the specific model by about 80%), there were also documents: instructions in English (on the CT0618-300/CJ0618-200 model there are clones with bases of 300/200 mm, there are drawings of the internals), certificate for the device (CJ0618) and a test table of factory measurements (in Chinese)...

In short - as indicated in the review, the device is from the “do it yourself” series.

quote: I've been looking for something like this myself for a long time.

Sergey. Fifteen years ago I had a Soviet Universal-2... Compared to it, this one has a larger base, a larger hole in the spindle, an engine with electronic speed control (no need to change the belt every time), and a lighter weight (42 kg versus 60 - you can move/rearrange it alone) Considering that the new factory station wagon is almost the same price as this one, but you still have to modify it - I chose the Chinese

quote: Is the machine itself very noisy?

One and a half times quieter than an electric sewing machine...
When replacing plastic gears, the noise will increase, but it’s still nice that you can work at night and not wake up your neighbors...

Vlad Klem 03-01-2008 01:14

I recommend purchasing this tool holder from Konoplev. Firstly, you don’t need any backing to align the cutter in the center. Secondly, it is very convenient to change already set incisors.

By the way, I use 12x12 cutters; they fit perfectly into the cartridges. In the cartridges, I recut all the holes, both for the adjusting screws and the clamping screws, to M6 threads.

Vlasenko 03-01-2008 01:31

quote: I recommend purchasing this tool holder from Konoplev.

Vlad. Konoplev has a lot of interesting things... I’m still thinking about quick-change tool holders, but I haven’t gotten around to it yet. All my life I’ve been accustomed to putting scraps of saws and spacers from rulers under the cutters, even when working on large machines - this procedure is not particularly annoying... The standard tool holder for me is good because I immediately put three main cutters there and during work they can only be changed by turning tool holder...
For small things, the next step is to buy a plan washer and look for a 100 cartridge (three-jaw self-centering) in order to make full use of the hole in the spindle...
Well, if you’ve seen it somewhere, whistle, I’m interested in the knurling.

blacksmith 03-01-2008 01:46

quote: Originally posted by Vlasenko:

I'm interested in knurling.

There is one on MiZ, although it’s a little expensive... something like 1000...

Vlasenko 03-01-2008 01:54

quote: There is one on MiZ, although it’s a little expensive... something like 1000...

Hmm... really a bit expensive for a 10 bucks device...

Zmeyuka 03-01-2008 12:51

Vlasenko, you write: "The diameter of the through hole of the spindle, mm - 20"
What is the diameter of the hole in the cartridge?
I ask because on the Proma machine that I looked at at the exhibition, the spindle was actually stated to be 20 mm, and the chuck was about 15 mm.

Vlad Klem 03-01-2008 15:59

There is a machine, it won’t take long to do the knurling yourself. And ready-made rollers can be bought at Moskvoretsky both with straight and oblique cutting. Yes, and you can look for ready-made knurling there.
And just in case, here's a knurling drawing for you.

Vlasenko 03-01-2008 16:39

quote: in Proma’s machine, which I looked at at the exhibition, the spindle was actually stated to be 20 mm, and the chuck was about 15 mm.

In all these Chinese clones, the hole in the spindle is 20 mm... The 80 mm cartridges initially have a hole of about 15..., people painlessly bore it to 17 (it doesn’t work anymore due to the mounting points on the cartridge)... The cartridges have 100 mm the hole is something like 22 mm, but there you need to specifically look at its attachment to the spindle (either modify it or use a plan washer)...
In this regard, on the Proksonovskaya 400 everything is more correct from the very beginning - the hole in the spindle is 20.5 and the cartridge is 100, but the prices are not very humane...

quote: It doesn’t take long to do the knurling yourself.

It won’t take long to do everything. My heart senses a close visit to the Moskvoretsky market...

Vlad Klem 03-01-2008 17:29

I advise you to look for a leading center like this (or something like this). This thing really makes life easier when you need to sharpen something that doesn’t fit into the chuck.

Vlasenko 04-01-2008 19:19

I ran to Konoplev...
At home I sharpened a little bit of wood, duralumin, brass...
I added a little to the review...

quote: By the way, I use 12x12 cutters; they fit perfectly into the cartridges.

I stupidly measured the groove in the cartridges of the kit I took - 11 mm... 12x12 won't fit without a groove...

quote: And just in case, here's a knurling drawing for you.

Are the knurlings made by you in the photo?

Vlad Klem 05-01-2008 15:58

So I took a tool holder for a larger machine. Although the tool holder is also 50x50mm in plan. I have a 14mm cutter slot.
The knurls are not mine. These are just very easy to make. I have a more complex knurling with replaceable rollers. These machines have a rather flimsy mount for the upper support (for turning cones). I made another mount, like on this site. There are a lot of devices here for your own “stool.” By the way, in order to increase the rigidity of the tool holder, you can simply temporarily remove the upper support, and instead put a plate of equal height and a tool holder on it. (we don’t sharpen cones every day)
Here's the website. http://homepage3.nifty.com/amigos/index-e.html
Toolholder: http://bedair.org/clamp/9x20clamp.html

Vlasenko 05-01-2008 20:15

quote: So I took a tool holder for a larger machine.

Perhaps... Konoplev has separate cartridges, without a base holder... I'll have to call him so that he can measure the grooves on them...
Maybe you can make a review of your JET with comments? Either in a separate thread or here. Although the machines are different, they have a lot in common...

I ran to the Moskvoretsky market today. I bought knurling rollers, an old hour indicator (0-10mm), and some other small things to replenish the cutting tools...

By the way, this DIY Chinese, despite its power, is not so powerful. Yesterday I cut an M6 thread on a brass stand. I ground the shaft to 6, then put a hand die into the die holder and use the handles to move onto the machined shaft... Well, then, as I’m used to with normal large-sized ones, the die holder rests on the frame and feeds the smallest revolutions... The spindle started half a turn and stood up... I had to turn off the power and cut it to the full length with my hands...
What was pleasing about all this was that the plastic gears withstood the load perfectly. I decided to put off replacing them with metal ones for now... Let them plow until they break...

Vlad Klem 05-01-2008 22:47

To cut threads with a tap or dies on such machines, you need to make a device on the back of the spindle and turn it manually. There was such a thing somewhere on the net. Yes, it seems to have been attached to some of our tabletop machines. This is a handwheel, the front part of which is a reverse collet. It is inserted into the spindle hole and the collet is released with a bolt. We turn the handwheel when cutting threads.

Vlasenko 05-01-2008 23:09

quote: To cut threads with a tap or dies on such machines, you need to make a device

It’s a no-brainer that the device is better. For now, everything is the old fashioned way, there’s always not enough time for everything, but we have to do it... So I remembered the old experience (in this way, at 3 kW we always used M12 threads and higher... Relics It was enough to turn the machine, but the handles were already strained...)

Well, as for the tools for carving - the option you know. If you want to clamp it in the tailstock, but you need to cut it at a long length, you can also place it in the chuck...

Vlad Klem 06-01-2008 14:27

So, I have this garbage. But M12 and above are difficult to cut with such a thing on small machines, especially if the steel is slightly heated (normalized). The roller in the cartridge (even in the 125th) rotates. It’s better then to use a cutter and it comes out faster and more accurately.

q123q 07-01-2008 23:08

Isn’t such a small power confusing? Just half a kilo.....

Serjant 07-01-2008 23:26

For such a lathe, this is more than enough.

Konstantin_E 22-01-2008 23:53

Good evening. I see there are plenty of such machines. Most recently, an analogue appeared - Proma300. Judging by the description, the machines are functionally the same, but differ slightly in size. A very decent little thing for a home workshop. I recently worked on mine for a few days and had a lot of fun. I discovered that the machine easily removes a millimeter per pass, automatically. Both from non-ferrous metal and steel. The only thing the Czechs didn’t check was that the dial was calibrated for the feed, and not for the size of the diameter. But this is a matter of habit. And they did not close the longitudinal feed gears from chips. Is it the same on your machine? I do not advise you to immediately cut the thread with a cutter, since for this it is advisable to have the skills of a larger machine. And do not burden yourself with thread cutting using a motor tool. If the gears are plastic then anything can happen. At this time, the load on them is noticeably greater than during grooving.

varenik59 23-01-2008 21:35

in a conversation with Konoplev, information was received about the existence in nature of 80 mm four-jaw self-centering chucks for this machine, but now they are not available... will order...)

I have been working as a turner for a long time, but I have never encountered four-jaw self-centering chucks. Of course, everything happens in life, but the point of a four-jaw chuck is precisely to fix the workpiece (if it is round) not in the center of the machine axis. If it does not have a round cross-section, then what kind of self-centering can we even talk about?

SiDiS 23-01-2008 21:59

There are both 4-jaw and 6-jaw self-centering chucks. The first is used for processing square-section workpieces, the second was used for processing thin-walled workpieces

varenik59 23-01-2008 22:11

Frankly speaking, I didn’t know. Although what you are describing is rather special equipment for solving narrow problems (for working on the process of a single operation). And for the universal lathe For a home (and not only home) workshop, it seems to me that nothing better than a three-jaw one has been invented yet. And the machine is really good. The eye is caressing.

Vlad Klem 23-01-2008 22:28

My engine power is 1.1 kW. But single-phase. The transmission was piled up, and the toothed belt from the engine to the clutch and V-belt, from the clutch to the spindle, and the thickness of the soul and three-groove pulleys, not counting a bunch of gears. I want to install the same engine, but three-phase and power it from the frequency converter, having first discarded all the pulleys, timing and V-belts. Place a single-groove pulley on the engine and the same on the spindle and regulate the speed with a frequency control. I'm tired of throwing belts around, and they break. I changed 4 belts in a year, one toothed and three V-belts. It's good that a solution was found. You buy a serpentine belt from a VAZ generator drive, cut the adol and get 6 belts. Relatives stand there like a helicopter.
You could fly into a chimney with just the straps.

Vlasenko 30-01-2008 01:30

quote: frankly speaking, I didn’t know. Although what you are describing is rather special equipment for solving narrow problems (for working on the process of a single operation). But for a universal lathe for the home (and not only home) workshop, it seems to me that nothing better than a three-jaw lathe has yet been invented.

In this particular case, a four-jaw self-centering chuck is considered as a replacement for the standard one for the banal reason of a larger bore hole with the same chuck size...
Hole in spindle - 20 mm
3-jaw 80mm - through hole. can be bored up to 17 mm, further restrictions on fastening...,
4-jaw 80 mm - through 22 mm without groove...
3-jaw 100 mm - through 22 mm, in terms of dimensions it fits on the machine, but on the one hand it is too heavy for this unit, and on the other hand, you need to be tricky with its fit...

quote: And the longitudinal feed gears were not protected from chips. Is it the same on your machine? I do not advise you to immediately cut the thread with a cutter, since for this it is advisable to have the skills of a larger machine. And do not burden yourself with thread cutting using a motor tool. If the gears are plastic then anything can happen.

The gears are covered with a casing, but the shaft itself is open..., but this is already food for independent modification... In general, the best option is to install oiled leather seals on all parts of the caliper (on the shaft, on the guides) - at the same time they clean and lubricate the rubbing surfaces... What initially stands is made of plastic and over time it becomes tanned and stops working...
I have the skills to cut threads from a large machine... (although I prefer to cut threads with dies by hand if possible)...
As for plastic gears, the devil is not so scary - a set of new ones costs a penny, and if anything there are places online where you can try to order an upgrade to bronze...

quote: I'm tired of throwing belts around, and they break. In a year I changed 4 belts, one toothed and three V-belts. It's good that a solution was found. You buy a serpentine belt from a VAZ generator drive, cut the adol and get 6 belts. Relatives stand there like a helicopter.
You could fly into a chimney with just the straps.

...What did you want? I chose the machine myself...
I myself don’t like throwing belts... (I remember the Soviet station wagon with disgust...)

The DIY 0714 desktop unit is a compact metal turning equipment, which is produced according to uniform technical documentation by several Chinese manufacturers.

1

DIY 0714 units were supplied to Russia by the commercial company Konopleva (an entrepreneur well known in the market of domestic equipment for metal processing). It was from this company that one could order a Chinese machine at a reasonable price. For this reason, you can often hear the expression “I bought a turning unit from Konoplev.”

Each company that currently produces the one we are interested in may make minor changes to its design. Equipment from different companies usually differs from each other in two characteristics: the distance (maximum) between the centers of the machine and the power indicator of the installed engine.

The remaining technical parameters of metal lathes of the described model are the same:

spindle revolutions per minute – from 50 to 2500;
movement – 65 mm (transverse) and 35 mm (longitudinal);
chuck diameter for working tools – 80 mm;
taper – Morse 2 (headstock), Morse 3 (spindle);
thread pitch (metric only) – from 0.5 to 2.5 mm;
the cross-section of the hole in the spindle is 20 mm.

A special feature of the unit is that it is necessarily equipped with a special frequency regulator. This mechanism changes the power supplied to the electric motor, which makes it possible to control its rotation speed as efficiently as possible.

This regulator independently increases/decreases the motor power if workpiece processing conditions require it. Thus, no matter what loads the lathe experiences, its spindle assembly always rotates at the same speed. This feature is very important for users of the unit, most of whom are amateurs and not specialists. DIY 0714 is usually called a hobby lathe, that is, one that can be used to perform exclusively simple household machining operations.

2

Structurally, the “brainchild” of Chinese engineers includes the following main parts and mechanisms:

sled;
guides;
two grandmothers;
cross and transverse support;
apron;
spindle head bushing flywheels and carriage feed flywheel;
engine control module;
cross feed flywheel;
spindle sleeve;
tool holder;
a handle that secures the headstock (spindle) bushing in a given position;
chuck (three jaws).

Also in the design of the unit there is a nut necessary for clamping the spindle head, a handle for starting the longitudinal automatic feed, a lead screw, a thread indicator, a gear housing, and a separate caliper feed lever (cross).

There are also two levers on the back of the unit. One allows you to select the desired longitudinal automatic feed (three positions), using the second you assign the type of feed (low or high).

The DIY 0714 comes factory packaged with a chuck, a fixed rear center, a set of outer jaws, four Allen keys (3-6mm), a set of gears (replacement gears) for , a chuck key, an additional electrical fuse and wrenches. These tools and accessories allow you to install and adjust the lathe table machine without inviting a specialist.

3

When rotating, the caliper flywheel (transverse) moves the caliper along the longitudinal slide along the guides. This feed is needed to remove chamfers from workpieces and to approach them with tools.

The slide is moved by another flywheel in two directions - from the headstock and towards it. This handwheel makes it possible to quickly position the carriage in the right place when turning a product. Please note that if the lathe is operating in automatic mode, it is prohibited to manually move the carriage.

The cross slide slide is controlled by a third flywheel. It is used to determine the distance to which the working tool should be moved. There is no other way to complete this procedure. There are markings on the flywheel. It allows the operator to evaluate and perform the (relative) movement of the feed in the transverse direction.

When it becomes necessary to select the zero value of the flywheel, you should:

unscrew the fixing screw on it (use a hex wrench);
set the value to "0" (simply by turning the handwheel);
tighten the screw.

The spindle sleeve on the headstock, when fully screwed into the bushing, pushes the thrust center out of it. The bushing itself moves back and forth with a handwheel. And you can secure the spindle head sleeve in the required position using a special handle.

The feed start lever (longitudinal) in auto mode is connected to a device that closes the two parts of the sleeve into one. This mechanism is needed to crimp the lead screw. When the lever is moved, the screw rotates in the sleeve and it is screwed (gradually) onto the thread. The feed is turned on when the lever is set to the upper position and turned off when the lower position is selected.

4

When starting up the machine equipment for the first time, it is necessary to perform a comprehensive set-up of the unit by adjusting the slide, nut and support bars (transverse), cross support bars, apron and lead screw. Manufacturers also recommend that if the unit is actively used, such adjustment procedures should be performed regularly to ensure the functionality and safety of the lathe.

The machine slide is fixed on the guides by holders in the form of two plates. They are located at the bottom of the slide. These holders, in turn, are secured with clamps that prevent the plates from unwinding during operation of the lathe. The adjustment of the plates is carried out using hexagonal head screws according to the scheme described below:

on the right side of the unit, dismantle the screw (running) bushing;
Unscrew two bolts from the slide (front);
remove the apron from the screw, moving it slightly to the right;
Loosen the fixing devices on the holders.

After this, adjust the clamps and plates, tightening them using the tools included with the unit. At correct setting the slides do not have the slightest play and at the same time move easily along the guides.

The caliper bars and nuts are adjusted in a similar manner (loosening the screw and unscrewing the locknuts). These processes are well described in the data sheet that comes with the model 0714 tabletop machine.

The procedure is of great importance for the convenience of working on the equipment. fine tuning his apron. On this machine unit, it is necessary to adjust the position of the half-bushings (they are threaded). They must be located at the same distance from the feed screw. They are configured like this:

unscrew the screws securing the slide and apron;
half-bushings are engaged;
carefully tighten the screws.

This procedure should be performed as often as possible, otherwise your lathe simply will not work well.

Quite often it is desirable to adjust the lead screw, or rather the two bushings in which it rotates. Each bushing is adjusted separately. To adjust the right bushing, it is necessary to dismantle the spindle head, and the left one - the casing, which protects the set of gears from external influences. The adjustment process itself consists of carefully tightening all existing screws and nuts.

Quick-change cartridge-type tool holder MULTIFIX

Quick-change cartridge-type tool holder MULTIFIX- modern design of tool holder for lathes, which makes it possible to significantly simplify tool changing while simultaneously reducing the time for changing it. It is distinguished by high reinstallation accuracy, as well as convenience and ease of adjustment. The MULTIFIX tool holder is suitable for all common types of screw-cutting lathes.

Features of the MULTIFIX tool holder

Reliable cam clamp
Repositioning accuracy 0.01 mm
Ground ring gear
40 possible angular positions with scale reading
Made from high quality alloy steel
Adjusting the position of replaceable cartridges in height

Standard contents

It is equipped with three replaceable cartridges for cutters with a square holder and one replaceable cartridge for cutters with a round holder. You can also purchase a tool holder and replacement cartridges separately.

How to determine the standard size of the MULTIFIX tool holder?

Depending on the size and power of the lathe, MULTIFIX toolholders are divided into types: Aa, A, B, C, D. From the smallest to the largest. If you do not know the type of tool holder required, you can determine it using the table:

Type	Aa	A		B		C			D
Drive power, kW	1	1	1	7	7	13	13	13	20	20	20
Maximum cartridge width Z, mm	80	100	100	150	150	150	180	180	180	200	200
Min. distance from the support to the center of the machine, X min, mm	18	24.5	28.5	37	45.5	47	55	63	60	70	83
Max. distance from the support to the center of the machine, X max, mm	26	35,5	39,5	57	56,5	87	90	93	95	100	103
Height adjustment, h, mm	8	11	11	20	11	40	35	30	35	30	20
Height of the tool holder landing pad, y, mm	6	8.5	8.5	12	13.5	15	15	18	20	20	25
Maximum size (height) of the tool, H, mm	12	16	20	25	32	32	40	45	40	50	63
Total length (tool holder + cartridge), V, mm	70	100	100	150	150	200	200	200	230	234	242
Tool holder height, S, mm	37	56	56	79	79	110	110	110	122	122	122
Distance from the center of the tool holder to the edge of the cartridge, U, mm	30	48	48	71	71	90	90	90	112	116	124
Diameter of the central hole of the tool holder, t, mm	13	20	20	32	32	40	40	40	40	40	40

Dimensions of MULTIFIX tool holder

How to determine the size of a MULTIFIX cartridge?

In addition to matching the standard sizes of tool holders (Aa, A, B, C, D), MULTIFIX quick-change cartridges are also divided into three types of seating surfaces for the tool shank:

D - for tools with a rectangular shank;
H - for tools with a round shank;
J - for a round adapter sleeve for a tool with a Morse taper shank (2, 3, 4).

MULTIFIX cartridge designations

MULTIFIX quick-change cartridges are designated as follows: the first letter is the type of tool holder, the second is the type of shank, the first two numbers are the height (diameter) of the tool, the last two or three numbers are the width of the cartridge (tool clamp length). The designation is usually marked on the tool holder body.

If you require additional cartridges, or replace the MULTIFIX tool holder, you can simply indicate the designation on the cartridge:

MULTIFIX on lathes

A quick-change MULTIFIX cartridge-type tool holder can be equipped with screw-cutting lathes made in Slovakia, as well as any other universal screw-cutting lathes. Also quick change tool holder MULTIFIX and cartridges for it can be purchased separately.

How to buy MULTIFIX quick-change tool holder and cartridges?

To buy a MULTIFIX quick-change tool holder and cartridges for it, please send your application by email info@site, (or [email protected]), or just click on the button below and write what type of tool holder and cartridges you need, their quantity and details for invoicing.