In this case, this is the common AXD-1WXSJ30W, with a power of 1W, a current of ~300mA and a brightness of ~100 Lumens.
In general, the purchase of these LEDs is connected with the desire to improve their brother - a Chinese lamp with 2 LDS of 36 watts. This is what he looked like before his first reincarnation:
Yes, yes, yellowed from the sun and with flies...
From yellowing and unsightly appearance Such lamps can be removed by painting the housing with aluminum paint from a can. This will give them the color of aluminum without the gloss. Looks chic and “rich”.)) 
But no... this is still a two-LED lamp that has set the teeth on edge?!
OK. Let's add fifty LEDs! (we use another fifty diodes for the second lamp) 
Testing “on the knee”: 
Works great!
Let's move on to preparing the lamp. We throw out the old offal - electronic ballast and lamp sockets. It turns out that the main (middle) part of the lamp body is indeed aluminum, which is what is needed for cooling!
First fitting: 
As planned, we need some parts made from aluminum profiles. Let's follow them to castorama: 
Wow... damn expensive. There are only two sizes - one meter and two meters. The lamp is about twenty meters long and it is more profitable for us to purchase meter-long profiles. But which ones? The W-shaped ones are damn good and look like a radiator. But the price is under 80 rubles... Besides, you will need three pieces for each lamp... And then we come across a wonderful I-beam 3cm x 2cm for a ridiculous price - 39 rubles. What the price is, why that is... I don’t know. 
One lamp requires a pair.
Another fitting 
We fasten them together with rivets as the cheapest means. Drill holes for the boards. 
We install the drivers. 
We also fasten the boards with soldered LEDs with rivets, lubricating their aluminum base this time with thermal conductive paste KPT-8. It is much cheaper than glue, and you need a lot of it for these purposes. 
Solder and lay the wires. 
The product is ready! 
So, we got rid of the old LDS and got a modern, stylish and unique LED lamp.
The heating temperature of the aluminum profile is around 60 degrees, which is quite acceptable.
The power consumption turned out to be approximately 45 watts versus 60 for an unconverted LDS. Our LED lamp shines clearly brighter (the LEDs, by the way, were bought in white colors) than the LDS, which remains a mystery to me, because characteristics of LDS lamps - 2500 lumens each. That is 5000 lumens for the entire lamp. About one-watt LEDs they write where 100-120 lumens, where 90-110... 50 of them were used per lamp, that is, it seems equivalent, but in fact it is 20 percent brighter.
Expenses.
1. LEDs 1W - 50 pcs ($4.2: 2) $2.1
2. boards for diodes - 10 pcs ($8: 2) $4
3. driver - 2 pcs ($2.36 * 2) $4.72
4. al. profile - 2 pieces (39 RUR * 2) 80 RUR or approximately $1.5
Total: $12.32 for 50 Watts.
That is, for 1 dollar you got 4 W of LED light. Record?
Hidden text
Look here:
- LED assembly 9 W (COB) on a ceramic substrate with built-in driver! Just supply 220V! Lot of 10 pieces for $28 - 90W for $28 is 3.2W for $1.
But this is more interesting - 10 pieces of 5730 diodes on a board with a driver. A lot of 10 boards costs $12.78 and that's 50 W and... drum roll... 3.91 W per dollar!
Here (finished board) it turns out to be 3.84 W per dollar.
Well, the result of 4 W (400 lumens) per dollar is not so easy to beat. The option with discrete diodes is repairable and cheap.
PS: The sellers used them and did an excellent job - they sent them quickly and without delay. The LEDs were defective up to 20%, but at the first mention the seller offered to send (and subsequently sent) a double amount in return for the defect with the next order from him. So he closed the problem quickly. Unpretentious. I can recommend everyone.
If you are interested in how to make an LED lamp with your own hands at home, then we will provide several step by step instructions with photo and video examples that will allow you to assemble an LED light bulb in no more than an hour. All ideas provided below will be listed from the simplest to the most complex, which will allow you to choose the appropriate option depending on your skills in handling a soldering iron and electrical circuits.
Idea No. 1 – Upgrading a halogen light bulb
The easiest way is to make an LED lamp yourself from a burnt-out halogen light bulb with -GU4. In this case, you will need the following materials and tools:
- LEDs. Choose their number yourself depending on how bright it should be LED lightening. We immediately draw your attention to the fact that you should not choose more than 22 diodes (this will complicate the assembly process and also make the light bulb too bright).
- Super glue (regular glue will do, but it will take longer to harden, which will not allow you to LED lamp fast).
- Small piece copper wire.
- Resistors. Their number and power will be calculated by an online calculator.
- A small piece of sheet aluminum (an alternative is a regular beer or carbonated drink can).
- Internet access. You will need to open a special online calculator to calculate the circuit LED lamp.
- Hammer, soldering iron and hole punch.
Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed directly to assembling the diode light bulb. We will provide instructions for creating a homemade one step by step, with photo examples of each stage, so that you can clearly see the installation process.
So, to make a 12 volt LED lamp, you need to follow these steps:
- Remove the top glass from the old halogen light bulb, as well as the white putty near the pin base (as shown in the photo below). The best way to do this is to use a screwdriver.
- Turn the lamp upside down and carefully use a hammer to knock the pins out of their seats. The old halogen bulb should fall out.
- According to the number of LEDs you have chosen, come up with a diagram of their location, based on which make a paper stencil. You can use an existing blank and print one of the ready-made diagrams shown in the picture:
- Glue the stencil to a sheet of aluminum using super glue, cut the sheet to the shape of the stencil, then use a hole punch to make seats for the LEDs.
- Generate an LED lamp assembly drawing on the Internet for your conditions. In our case, to create an LED light bulb at home from 22 diodes, you need to assemble the following circuit:
- Place the aluminum disk on a convenient stand and insert the LEDs into the seats, as shown in the photo. To simplify the soldering process, bend the cathode leg of one diode to the anode leg of the other.
- Carefully glue all the LEDs, making them a single structure. An important point is that the glue should not get on the legs of the diodes, because When soldering, extremely unpleasant smoke will be released.
- Once the glue has hardened, start soldering the legs. By the way, we recommend that you do this, which also won’t take much time. According to the diagram, solder the diodes of the LED lamp, leaving only one positive leg and one negative leg for connecting power. It is recommended to cut the “-” leg in half so as not to subsequently confuse the polarity of the contacts of a homemade LED light bulb.
- According to the diagram, solder resistors to the negative contacts. As a result, according to our example, there should be 6 positive terminals and 6 negative terminals (with resistors).
- Solder the resistors according to the generated circuit.
- Solder an identical piece of copper wire to the resulting two contacts, which will result in making a pin base for an LED lamp at home. By analogy with the previous advice, temporarily make one leg shorter (negative) so that you don’t confuse anything later and make the connection correctly.
- To prevent this from happening in the future, carefully glue the space between the removed legs.
- Complete the final assembly of the LED light bulb: place the disk on the reflector and carefully glue it.
- Use a marker to sign on the body of the assembled LED lamp where “+” and where “-”, also indicate that homemade source The light is designed to be connected to a 12 Volt power supply, not 220.
- Check the assembled homemade product. To do this, connect the LED light bulb to a car battery or 220/12 Volt power supply.
Like this in a simple way You can make an LED lamp with your own hands from available materials. As you can see, there is nothing complicated and you don’t need to spend much time on assembly! We recommend that you check out a few best ideas on how to create a light bulb at home, which we provided in the video gallery:
Idea No. 2 – “Housekeeper” in action!
Second, no less interesting idea- assemble a light bulb from energy saving lamp. There is also no particularly serious work involved, and even a not very experienced electrician can handle the assembly. 
To begin, you must prepare the following materials and tools to assemble an LED lamp with your own hands:
Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed to assembly. This instruction is more creative, so if you decide to make a diode light bulb from a burnt housekeeper, carefully look at the photo examples.
Stages of work:
Using these instructions, you can easily make an LED lamp from a fluorescent or halogen light bulb!
Idea No. 3 – LED strip as a basis
If you are not so good with a soldering iron and at the same time have no idea how to assemble a circuit on fiberglass, it is better to make an LED lamp with your own hands from LED strip. In this case, instead of a driver, you can use a power supply that converts 220 Volts in the network into 12. The only significant drawback of this method is the large dimensions of the power supply, so this option is recommended if you decide to use LED spotlights in the room. You can try to assemble all the light bulbs for them with your own hands and connect them to a single power supply, which can be hidden in the ceiling without any problems. 
So all you need to do is:
That's all the instructions for assembling an LED lamp from strip. As you can see, everything is much simpler than even making a light bulb according to the generated diagram. That's it for our simple instructions run out, and now you know how to make an LED lamp with your own hands from an energy-saving light bulb, a diode strip and a halogen light source! We hope that the ideas provided were useful and understandable for you!
Related materials:
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Whether we like it or not, the transition to LED lighting is a matter of time. Another couple of years, and buying a regular incandescent lamp will become quite problematic. And prices for LED lamps (I hope) will begin to gradually slide down. In general, without waiting for industrial designs to become cheaper, I decided to make such a lamp with my own hands, from what I had. The lamp was conceived as an alternative to emergency lighting; the requirements were: simplicity, minimal consumption, uncomplicated circuit design. It can be used as a night light or interior lighting. There is nothing new in itself - everything is quite simple, the innovation affected only the technical side - the use of “Triple-crystal LEDs” and grouping for less flickering. This is what it looks like on schematic diagram:LEDs are economically profitable to “solder” from the strip, the cost of a single one is several times cheaper. Although this is not so important, you can use regular 5mm ultra-bright ones in groups as per the diagram. On printed circuit board it looked something like this (diameter 30mm):
For any work, as well as during rest, you need good light. You can buy a lamp, but sometimes it is not cheap. In the store, instead of a ready-made lamp, you can purchase an LED strip. It is relatively inexpensive and can be cut into pieces of any length. If you place it in the housing or secure it in another way, you will get a homemade lamp with an LED strip. You can take this lamp with you to your tent when fishing. When traveling, the LED lamp is connected to a car battery.
Scope of application of homemade LED lamps
Homemade LED lamps for LED strip can be used instead of conventional ones:
- illumination of the workplace when performing small work in a workshop or garage;
- illumination from above the aquarium (if the tape is waterproof or in a sealed housing, then the lamp can be lowered into the water);
- illumination of seedlings or indoor plants in winter;
- night light or table lamp;
- lighting of switches and sockets;
- computer keyboard lighting;
- for replacing fluorescent lamps.
On the Internet you can find many other types of floor lamps and ceiling chandeliers from LED strip with photos and videos, as well as reviews from people who collected and used such lamps.
Types and parameters of LED strips
LED strip color optionsLED strips are available in different designs depending on the type of protection. They can be of different brightness and different colors, which are determined by color temperature - from warm white (2700K) to cold (6800K), as well as colored or capable of changing their color - RGB tapes. This makes it possible to select the type of device for specific purposes.
LED strip device
LED strip is a flexible plastic strip with conductive strips printed on it. Two are located at the edges and connections are made to them. The rest connect LEDs and resistors to each other. They are arranged in groups - three LEDs connected in series, and a resistor that serves to limit the current flowing through them.
LED strip parameters The strip itself can be cut into sections that are multiples of three LEDs. In these places there are marks indicating the place of the cut and contact pads, to which wires are soldered or connected using connectors.
LEDs can be coated with a layer of silicone on one or both sides. This determines the degree of protection from external influences. On the reverse side, an adhesive layer is applied to the strip, like on double-sided tape. With its help, the LEDs are attached to the base.
The most common supply voltage is constant, 12V. There are designs designed to connect to a voltage of 24V and higher, but these are not very common designs.
Types of LEDs used
LEDs and resistors in the strip are used in the SMD series, without leads. LEDs in production are used in different sizes, which determines the marking of the strip - 5050 and 3528. These numbers show the size of the LED in tenths of a millimeter
Visual difference between 5050 and 3528 
Expert opinion
Alexey Bartosh
Ask a question to an expertThe larger the size, the higher the brightness and the current and power consumption. It also depends on the number of LEDs per meter of length.
Accordingly, marking an SMD 5050 strip with a density of 60 LEDs means that 60 are installed per meter of length SMD LEDs 5050.
Controllers, power supplies for LED strips
controller and power supply Since the LED strip is designed for constant pressure 12V, then a power supply or controller is required for connection.
Important! When you connect the LED strip to a 220 volt network, it will instantly burn out!
Power supplies are produced in different capacities and shapes. From low-power, similar to charging device from a tablet to powerful designs in a metal case with built-in coolers.
LED strip power supply power Some power supplies are equipped with dimmers and remote controls remote control. RGB strips require an RGB controller to control color.
There are models controlled via WiFi, with color and music effects, for example, ARILUX® AL-LC01.
If you don’t have a special block available, you can use:
- Any transformer with an output voltage of 12V. A diode bridge and a smoothing capacitor must be connected to the output.
- The computer power supply, both in the computer itself and separately.
- If you need 3-6 LEDs, then to limit the current you can use a capacitor, as well as a diode bridge and a capacitor that smoothes out the pulsations of the glow. This scheme is used in LED lamps installed instead of incandescent lamps. The capacitance of the capacitor can be calculated using an online calculator.
- Make an energy-saving lamp out of the board of a faulty lamp.
- Connect 20 pieces of LED strip in series and connect through a diode bridge and a smoothing capacitor to a 220V network.
Preparation of materials and parts
making a lamp with your own hands Before starting work, you need to determine the required number and brightness of the LED strip, as well as the power of the power supply.
First of all, you need to determine the length. For lamps used in different places you need:
- night light and illumination of switches and sockets - a segment of three LEDs;
- aquarium lighting – along the length of the wall;
- illumination of a bed with seedlings - several pieces, a length equal to the length of the beds;
- computer keyboard – along the length of the keyboard;
- for replacement fluorescent lamp you need several pieces, equal to the length of the lamp.
The brightness of the strip, the size and density of the LEDs are determined based on specific conditions.
The power of the power supply must be no less than the power LED lamp, and preferably 20% more. This is necessary for more reliable operation of the unit.
In addition, you will need wires, heat shrink tubing to insulate the connection point, a soldering iron with tin and rosin, or a connector for connection.
Expert opinion
Alexey Bartosh
Specialist in repair and maintenance of electrical equipment and industrial electronics.
Ask a question to an expertAttention! You cannot solder the tape with acid! Acid fumes oxidize and destroy wires and can also cause short circuits.
If the lamp will be used in an aquarium for internal lighting, then you will need a transparent tube and silicone sealant to ensure the tightness of the structure.
Lamp assembly
LED lamp assembly After developing the design of the future lamp and preparing all the tools and materials, the lamp itself is assembled.
Sometimes the entire assembly process involves applying tape to a base, such as a backlit keyboard that sits on a pull-out shelf under a desk.
In other cases, it is necessary to make a lamp or remake an existing one.
Features and stages of installation work
Installation and connection of a lamp made from LED strip has a number of features:
- The power supply should be located as close to the LEDs as possible. The longer the wires, the greater the voltage loss in them, which leads to a loss of brightness of the lamp.
- It is advisable to isolate the LEDs from the base if it is metal.
- When connecting the device directly from a 220V network (via a capacitor), use only a tape coated with silicone on both sides.
Carefully! On such a tape there is high voltage, therefore all manipulations with it are performed in the disabled state.
What to do if there is no ready-made LED strip
If you don’t have a ready-made LED strip, you can make it yourself.
To do this, the required number of LEDs must be connected in series and a current-limiting resistor connected to them. You can assemble such a structure on a strip of getinax or textolite, where holes are drilled for mounting LEDs. Such a device can be assembled for any required voltage and number of LEDs.
A 13.5 W LED bulb should have been sufficient to sufficiently illuminate a room of 8 m2. But in reality it turned out that there was not enough light.
The analysis showed that the reason for insufficient illumination with sufficient lamp power lay in the design of the LED lamp. In its lower part, parallel to the horizon and directed downwards, there were only 36 LEDs, and from the remaining 162 the light flux went to the sides and, in addition, decreased, passing through the frosted glass of the lampshade. Thus, the actual illumination of the floor was equivalent to illumination by an LED directional light bulb with a power of no more than three watts.
Due to the wrong choice of light bulb type, insufficient illumination of the kitchen area, especially in winter time, created discomfort, and the realization came that it was time to replace the light bulb in the chandelier with an LED lamp of a different design.
The search for an inexpensive LED bulb with a power of about 16-18 W with a wide angle of directional warm light was not successful. Due to the installed optics, lamps with powerful one-watt LEDs had a small angle or the base did not fit. And suitable lamps were very expensive. Lamps with low-power LEDs such as LED-Y-SMD352 or LED-Y-SMD5050 were not satisfactory in terms of power.
Since the existing lamp had a large shade, the idea arose to make a powerful LED lamp with your own hands from several low-power ones. As a result, four inexpensive lamps of the MR16 type with a power of 4.5 W were purchased, for which there were four sockets with a GU5.3 base and one was made from them powerful lamp, the glow of which you see in the photograph.
The cost was less than $10, and the conversion took several hours. The result was excellent. True, the lamp began to look unusual, as if the past and high-tech were combined. A high-power LED lamp made from several low-power ones has an additional advantage - if one of them burns out, the room will continue to be sufficiently illuminated by the remaining light bulbs; you can easily change the shade of light by installing, for example, two warm light bulbs and two cold light bulbs.
Making a powerful LED lamp
Any work on making homemade products begins with sketch work - measuring the dimensions of parts and, taking into account their overall and connecting dimensions, drawing up a general sketch of the future product.
To make a composite one high-power LED lamp from several low-power ones, you will need a base for an E27 socket with a base from an energy-saving lamp, four MR16 lamps and four GU5.3 sockets for them. You can see their overall and connecting dimensions in the photographs of the sketches.
Next, based on the obtained dimensions of the parts, you need to draw a sketch of the base of the future lamp. A fiberglass plate with a thickness of 1.5 mm and a diameter of 90 mm was chosen as the base. The base can also be made of any metal, for example, aluminum or steel 1 mm thick.
The next step is marking the future base of the lamp. Using a caliper or school compass, a forming line of the base is drawn. Next, in accordance with the sketch, drilling points for holes for sockets for light bulbs and wires are drawn. The base can be given a round shape using an electric or manual jigsaw. The base can also be made into a rectangular shape by cutting it out using metal scissors. After sawing or cutting, sharp edges should be removed using fine sandpaper.
To obtain holes in precisely marked places, it is better to first drill them with a thin drill, for example with a diameter of 1 mm, and then drill them to the desired diameter with a thicker drill.
It was decided to secure the GU5.3 sockets to the base using screws with metric M3 threads. Therefore, holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm were first drilled, and then the threads were cut using a tap.
The holes through which the electrical wires will pass were removed with a larger diameter drill and the sharp edges were removed and chamfered.
The base for the homemade lamp is ready and you can begin installing parts on it. To give the base an aesthetic appearance, you can paint it or cover it with film.
The easiest way is to cover the base with self-adhesive aluminum foil. I didn’t have a strip wide enough, and that’s why I ended up with a seam. If there is no foil covered with a sticky layer, then you can glue ordinary aluminum foil with glue, for example, “Moment”, which is used for household needs or a chocolate wrapper.
The socket from the base of the E27 energy-saving lamp is attached to the base using two corners with metric screws, bent at right angles from strips that clamp the power cable in Soviet-style C1-b electrical plugs. Corners can be made by cutting strips of steel sheet 1-2 mm thick, and use self-tapping screws as fasteners.
To ensure that the base of the energy-saving lamp does not spoil the insulation of the wires coming from the GU5.3 sockets, samples were made on four sides using a round file.
The first to be installed and secured onto the base of the future composite lamp are the GU5.3 electric sockets. The wires coming out of the sockets were quite long. I did not shorten them, since there was enough space for laying the wires in the base from the energy-saving lamp.
Next, one wire coming from each cartridge is twisted together. The remaining four wires from the cartridges are also twisted together. The resulting twists are soldered using a soldering iron with tin-lead solder. If soldering is not possible, the connection can be made using a terminal block.
It remains to lay out the wires in a spiral and connect their ends with the ends of the wires connected to the base of the energy-saving lamp. The color marking of the wires does not matter in this case.
The twisted wires coming from the sockets and the base are placed coaxially overlapping each other and secured with a drop of solder. A piece of vinyl chloride tube is put on the place of soldering for insulation.
All that remains is to thread the wires into the base of the energy-saving lamp and secure it to the base of the lamp with two screws. The new composite lamp is ready and can be screwed into the lamp socket and installed in GU5.3 LED bulb sockets.
Tests have shown that the LED light bulbs in the sockets are held with a sufficient layer. But the possibility of them falling out still existed. Therefore, to securely fasten them, a threaded stand was additionally installed in the center of the base.
After installing the LED bulbs, a large washer was secured to the stand using an M3 screw, which pressed the bulbs by the edges to the sockets and prevented them from spontaneously slipping out over time. Instead of a washer, you can attach, for example, frosted glass to a stand to obtain softer light or a decorative decoration.
The photo shows a self-made high-power LED light bulb made from four low-power ones. The photo of the lamp was taken from the base side. The lamp somehow reminds me of a modern spacecraft.
And this photo shows the view of a homemade lamp made from four low-power MR16s from their installation side.
Everyone who knew me saw a lamp with a modernized lamp was surprised at the wonder and noted the excellent illumination that the light bulbs provided in the kitchen. Although, when coming up with this design, I had a good idea of what would ultimately turn out, but the result exceeded all my expectations. It turned out much more interesting.
The proposed technology for manufacturing an LED lamp can be used to manufacture an adapter in order to be able to install a light bulb in a lamp with a type of base different from the type of lamp socket.
