Since spring, I have been listening to the complaints of the household about the chandelier that hangs in the hall. They complained about the excessively frequent burnout of incandescent lamps, and in certain shades. They even marked these ceiling lamps with a marker. The chandelier had been in operation for five years already, everything was fine, and it was not clear that something could happen to it like that, for no reason at all. Therefore, the rapid failure of light bulbs attributed to their poor quality. But I was "beaten".

Chandelier repair

Having de-energized the electrical wiring in the apartment, he disconnected the wires of the chandelier from the terminal block and removed it from the ceiling hook. Disconnected shades immediately made it possible to see the unsightly state of the electric cartridges. The edges were warped and partially crumbled. This prompted a complete disassembly of the lighting fixture.

Dismantling the room chandelier

These electric cartridges are made of plastic and are clearly not intended for the "hundredths" lamps that they liked to screw in there. The insulation of the wires closer to the points of their connection with the cartridge turned into a hard crust over the strands and cracked. The central contacts inside the cartridges, which initially were not of high quality anyway, burned out and “crushed” - they lost any elasticity.

5 lamp sockets

The replacement cartridges, although they were not ceramic, looked much better than the previous ones. The outer diameter is 40 mm instead of 36 mm, which indicates an increase in wall thickness. Internal contacts made of metal are also of sufficient thickness and even with a special coating. In such a situation, if you are not a professional in repairing chandeliers, when choosing a replacement, no matter how funny it may seem, you need to go to the electrical goods store with the horn disconnected and with the ceiling from it, this is the easiest and most reliable way to “not miss” with pairing new design elements with old ones.

Plastic cartridge in the chandelier

To the new electric chucks, new wires and everything in the supporting structures, which are assembled together by attaching to a common central element. Before connecting the wires inside the chandelier, I figured out the wires hanging from the ceiling and to which the chandelier should be connected, a screwdriver helped in this - an indicator after the mains voltage was applied. Black wire "0", gray phase #1, yellow-green "ground", blue phase #2.

Wire connections and adapter

Wiring diagram for a chandelier for 5 lamps

circuit diagram connecting a 5l chandelier to the wiring

Here is the wiring diagram itself, both in the chandelier itself and its connection to electrical network, it has no options, it can only be drawn in different ways, but depending on this, everything can be done correctly or not.

The second version of the scheme

The wires of phases No. 1 and No. 2 would be more correctly connected to the central contact of the cartridge, and the “zero” wires to the side contact. With the "ground" wire, not everything is so simple, that's why the question mark is drawn. If the chandelier is metal and has a “zero” wire installed by the manufacturer, then it is necessary to connect it to it, if not, then the connection is at the discretion of the owner. If the chandelier is made of dielectric (that is, not metal), then the connection with "0" is useless.

Installation of wiring chandeliers and lamps

First, the "horn" wires are connected, then those intended for connection to the terminal block are connected to them. The twists should be treated with an active flux, soldered with tin and insulated.

LED lamp 12 W and package

After replacing the cartridges, they decided not to screw incandescent lamps into them, neither high power nor small, but "broke" and purchased LED ones at 200 rubles apiece, a little expensive, of course, but the manufacturer promised a 24-month warranty + 25,000 hours of continuous burning + light output from each lamp 1200 Lm (lumens) + warm light. The passport power of each light bulb is indicated at 12 watts and additionally indicated that it is identical to 100 watts of incandescent.

Why do lamps often burn out?

Well, the reason for the frequent burnout of electric lamps before the repair, which really took place (now I admit), I suppose it is necessary to consider the combination of bad contacts of electric cartridges and high voltage(always available 230 V), and frequent switching on and off of the chandelier.

After reading the title of the article, surely someone will definitely say - “why about e so-and-so write, with such work any landlord himself will be able to cope. Yes, of course, the installation and connection of a chandelier does not belong to the work of the highest category of complexity, however, these processes also have specific nuances, on which, by the way, the safety of living in an apartment depends.

The chandelier is connected to electricity, and all electrical appliances, if they are incorrect installation become source of danger - electric shock or even fire. In addition, this lighting fixture is often quite massive, and can cause a lot of trouble if it is not securely fixed to the ceiling. Thus, the whole complex of problems related to how to connect a chandelier with your own hands is conditionally divided into two directions - ensuring its correct connection to the mains and its reliable and most beautiful placement on the ceiling plane.

find out useful information, from our new article.

What to consider when choosing a chandelier

It is clear that the vast majority of apartment owners choose this lighting fixture, relying primarily on its external design, so that it matches the overall interior design of the room. However, at the same time, one should not forget about some other aspects of the choice.

• The total luminous power of the chandelier should correspond to the size and type of the room for which it is intended. There are certain illumination standards, which can be summarized as follows:

— For rooms where soft, diffused, subdued light is required (a typical example is a bedroom), one should proceed from 10 ÷ 12 W / m² of area.

— For rooms with an average level of general illumination (kitchen, bathroom, bathroom) or where it is planned to install additional lighting for specific workplaces (study or nursery) the norm will be from 15 to 20 W / m².

- For rooms with bright illumination (living room), this indicator is taken equal to 20 W / m².

In accordance with the calculated power, a lighting fixture with the required number of horns should be selected. Important nuance- in no case should you increase the overall illumination using more powerful lamps than allowed by the manufacturer. The material of the ceiling lamps, cartridges, the cross section of the internal wiring may not be designed for increased loads, and this will lead to damage to the device or even to a fire hazard.

• The dimensions of the lighting fixture must be in harmony with the overall dimensions of the room. A huge chandelier will look ridiculous in a fairly cramped room, or, conversely, too small will simply get lost on the plane of the ceiling of a vast hall. Designers recommend proceeding from the following considerations:

- The optimal diameter of the chandelier can be approximately determined by the formula:

D = ( L+ S)×10

D- chandelier diameter in centimeters

L and S- the length and width of the room, respectively, in meters.

So, for example, for a room measuring 5 × 3 m, the best option would be a chandelier with a diameter of 80 cm.

• The type of chandelier you choose depends on the height of the room. If the ceilings in the room are low, about 2.5 m, then it is better to give preference to the ceiling version of the lighting fixture, so that there is at least 2.0 ÷ 2.2 m from the floor to it. The suspended option will be appropriate in a room with high ceilings, and here the length of the suspension will be determined only by aesthetic considerations.
• Be sure to compare the type and material of the ceiling with the weight of the chandelier and the method of hanging it - this will be discussed below.
• Chandeliers are most often sold unassembled, so special attention is paid to completeness, compliance with the threads on all collapsible parts, integrity decorative elements. Be sure to check for clear and understandable installation instructions for the product.
• Unfortunately, the lighting market is literally oversaturated with cheap and low-quality goods and outright fakes for well-known brands. On such products, cartridges made of low-grade plastic, which is not designed for high temperatures, can be installed. They will issue a counterfeit poor-quality installation of the electrical part, twisting of wires, lack of terminal connections, etc. Often you have to independently carry out wire switching, their desoldering and insulation in accordance with all the rules. In particular, this applies to "fancy" chandeliers with LED additional circuits, power supplies or current transformation, remote control devices, etc. To avoid taking on these extra hassle, it is better to choose a product with a really high-quality cable and electrical "stuffing", require assembly and testing of the product in the store.

Prices for chandeliers and ceiling lights

Chandeliers and ceiling lights

We deal with the wires on the chandelier and on the ceiling

In this article, we will not consider particularly complex options with chandeliers stuffed with electronics - their installation in most cases will definitely require the services of an appropriately qualified specialist. But everyone should be able to connect an ordinary chandelier on their own.

First of all, a few theoretical questions from the field of home wiring. As you know, the power supply in our area is organized with a standard voltage of 220 V and a frequency of 50 Hz. Household wiring is carried out on two wires - phase and zero. If a ground loop is provided in the house (in modern housing this becomes a necessity and most often this issue is foreseen in new buildings), then a third wire connected to the ground bus is included in the wiring.

There is a generally accepted color marking of wires of a single-phase electrical network:

A characteristic nuance - if the neutral wire always has a blue or blue color, and the ground contact is yellow-green, then the color of the phase wire may vary:

Often, several phase wires of one or more colors can be assembled in one cable - this is used, among other things, when connecting lighting fixtures, to switch between different modes of their operation:

Ideally, both the chandelier and the house wiring should use this color coding. However, practice shows that in both cases this rule is not always observed. For example, in old houses, aluminum or copper wires in single color insulation. In this case, you will have to deal with them yourself.

Particular attention should be paid to safety measures when working with electrical wiring. It is strictly forbidden to touch bare wires with bare hands, unless the general power supply is turned off. You must wear shoes with rubber soles. To work under the ceiling, you need to provide a reliable foundation - an unstable stool or bedside table can lead to loss of balance, falling and injury. For these purposes, the best option would be a stepladder mounted on a rubber mat.

1. So, the easiest option is a cable with two wires coming out of the hole in the ceiling. It is clear that one of them is phase, and the other is zero. According to existing rules, zero should go directly to the junction box, and phase should be interrupted at the switch. Nevertheless, it doesn’t hurt to check - very often electricians “did not bother” with these issues.

• To check, you must have a special device - a phase indicator. Most often, it is made in the form of a screwdriver with a transparent case, although modern models may have other designs, including even an indication of the phase voltage value.
• First of all, it is necessary to completely de-energize the room or the entire apartment on the switchboard. This is necessary in order to thoroughly clean the wires from insulation and oxides to a length of 5 ÷ 8 mm. After stripping, the wires are bred to the sides as much as possible to prevent their short circuit. After that, turn on the machine on the shield.
• Then, with the switch in the off position, both wires are checked in sequence. None should show the presence of a phase. If there is a phase on one wire, then the wiring in the house is not done correctly - on the switch, apparently, “zero” is interrupted. It is very difficult to change anything in this case - it should just be borne in mind, exercising special care in further work.

• The phase is checked in the same way when the switch is in the on position. As a result, a phase wire will be identified, which can be marked in a certain way (with a marker or colored tape).

2. If a switch with two or more keys is installed in the room, then from the ceiling holes should be like the appropriate amount phase wires. The check is carried out in the same way as described above, with the marking of each phase separately, in accordance with the location of the switch keys.

A similar check should be carried out even if color-coded wiring is installed - just to eliminate the errors of the electrician who once installed it.

3. Now - about the cable part of the chandelier itself.

• The easiest way is when the chandelier is one- or two-three-horn, without dividing them into groups. All wires from the cartridges are assembled into two contact groups - zero and phase. If there is a ground wire, then it is usually attached to the metal body of the lamp.

• In the case when it is necessary to divide the horns with cartridges into two or more groups, then all the blue "zero" wires are connected into one bundle, and the phase wires are divided into several, according to the number of keys on the switch.

Very often, this can be seen quite clearly on chandeliers, and such switching will not be difficult.

The simplest case: all the wires are in full view

• In both cases, the bundles of twisted wires should be thoroughly soldered and placed in a screw terminal block or separate spring terminals.

• It is somewhat more difficult to understand when the device of the chandelier does not make it possible to visually understand its internal wiring. However, here you can figure it out by ringing all the outgoing wires using a multitester. To do this, you can sequentially screw an incandescent lamp into the cartridges (an energy-saving fluorescent lamp will not help in this case), and empirically find out which horn is powered from which wire. After that, it will be easy to distribute the horns into groups.

To "ring out" hidden wires, you need a multitester

There are other methods for determining the internal wiring of a chandelier, based on calculating the resistance of a circuit with lamps of the same rating screwed into all cartridges, but in practice it is still probably easier to just ring each horn.

So, the result of checking the chandelier circuits and stationary wiring in the room should be a clear understanding of the circuit, prepared for switching and marked wires on the ceiling and a group of contacts on the lighting fixture itself.

Video: wiring diagram for a five-arm chandelier to a two-gang switch

Mounting a chandelier on the ceiling of a room

If everything became clear with the electrical part, it is necessary to ensure that the chandelier is securely fastened to the ceiling. The technology of work depends on the design of the chandelier, and on the type of ceiling covering.

Hanging a chandelier on a hook

This is an old and proven method of mounting chandeliers, which have a special loop, ring or hook for this purpose.

In older multi-storey buildings, hanging hooks were installed in the ceiling holes at the construction stage. If it is worth it, then the problem is less, however, it does not hurt to check it for strength. To do this, it is necessary to hang a load with a total mass twice the weight of the chandelier planned for installation. If such a load is easily maintained, then there should not be any special concerns.

But what if the old hook is unreliable or its condition does not inspire confidence that it will withstand the load? No problem, you can install it yourself.

In principle, there should be no problems with a wooden ceiling - a hook-screw is easily screwed in there.

With a concrete floor slab, there can be various solutions:

— You can hang a hook on a transverse steel rod, which is inserted into the cable channel of the plate. In this case, care must be taken not to damage the wiring passing there with the rod.

- Another option with an old hole in the ceiling is to insert a hook with a “butterfly” lock into it. Having passed into the cable channel, the “wings” of this fastening will straighten and create the necessary support, and all that remains is to fix the entire suspension with a washer and nut.

Hook with a spring retainer - "butterfly"

- If this option is not possible, for example, in the case when there is no “regular” opening for the hook, it will be necessary to drill in concrete floor a hole for a plastic dowel, but still better - for a metal anchor with a ring or hook.

Before drilling, it is useful to evaluate the direction of the wiring from junction box to the exit on the ceiling, so as not to accidentally break the cable with a drill or break its insulation.

If the internal cavity of the plate is caught during drilling, a special metal dowel for hollow structures - with screwing it in, a “skirt” is formed that securely holds the fastener in the ceiling.

After installing any type of hook, it should be tested for load - as described above. After that, it is recommended to insulate the protruding metal part by wrapping it with electrical tape or putting on it a heat-shrinkable tube of the appropriate diameter, followed by heating.

If the hook is reliable, you can hang the chandelier for a regular mount. Be sure to turn off the general power supply of the room in order to connect the contact part. The wires are connected by terminal connectors - twisting is not allowed, as sparks can occur on them with melting of the insulation. The connection is carried out in full accordance with the wiring diagram, about which it was written above.

The place of the contact connection of the wires and the suspension on the hook is usually closed with a decorative glass (cap).

After completing the installation, turn on the power supply at the panel, then at the switch, in order to immediately verify that there are no short circuits. It does not hurt to check the absence of a phase on the metal body of the chandelier with an indicator. If everything is fine, then when the switch keys are turned off, the necessary lamps are screwed or inserted into the cartridge and the practical functionality of all chandelier horns is checked in all switching modes.

After checking, you can proceed to the final installation of the chandelier - installing shades, hanging all removable decorative parts, etc., according to the assembly instructions attached to the product.

Installing a chandelier on a mounting plate

Many produced chandeliers, especially designed for low rooms, are not hung on hooks, but are installed using screw fasteners on a special mounting plate fixed to the ceiling. This greatly improves the reliability of the overall installation, as the load is evenly distributed across multiple attachment points.

The design of the mounting plate can be different - it all depends on the specific model of the chandelier and its weight. The bar can be straight or curved, with brackets for fixing the body of the lighting fixture, or with protruding studs or screws.

Particularly heavy chandeliers can be supplied with cruciform planks or in the form of a reinforced I-profile.

The bar may have a hole with the edges covered with an insulating sleeve for the passage of wires coming out of the ceiling. You can place the bar in the immediate vicinity of the cable outlet - the body of the installed chandelier will hide both the hole in the ceiling and the wiring.

The mounting plate is fixed to the ceiling plane in various ways, depending on the specific conditions. In fact, this is described above, with the only difference being that instead of dowels with a ring or hook, ordinary ones are used, with a clamping head “under hide».

As well as when using a hook, the reliability of fastening under load must be checked.

The mount must be checked under load - in order to prevent such situations

Quite often, a situation occurs when the excessively close location of the dowels from the old hole in the ceiling does not ensure the reliability of installation - the edge of the concrete may crack or crumble. So the optimal choice of fasteners and installation location still remains with the direct executor of the work.

Fastening the chandelier itself to the mounting plate can also have its own characteristics. Perhaps, in this case, help is required - the lamp will have to be held on weight while the cable part is being switched. After the wires are connected, the body of the chandelier is attached to the bar with decorative nuts or screws.

Further work on performance monitoring and final installation is no different from what was described above.

Features of fastening the chandelier to the plasterboard ceiling

By and large, the placement of the chandelier should not be planned even before its installation. In this case, no problems are foreseen - one or more additional metal profiles are provided in advance for attaching the mounting plate or installed a hook, which will then be easy to build up with a chain or rod. In the drywall sheet, a hole is immediately marked and drilled in the right place for the exit of wires and a hook.

But what if this question of hanging a chandelier arose later?

• In the case when the lighting fixture is of a suspended type, it is impossible to install the hook directly into the GVL - its strength is unlikely to be enough for a point load. You can do it like this:

A hole is drilled in the ceiling with a diameter smaller than the decorative cap of the lamp.

Exactly in the center of this opening, a hole is drilled in the floor slab along the anchor fastening with a long drill installed in a puncher.

An anchor with a long threaded stud is inserted and fixed to the limit in the hole made, so that the stud comes out beyond the drywall plane.

An eye nut is screwed onto the protruding end of the stud, to which the chandelier itself will later be hung. The excess hairpin is carefully cut off with a hacksaw.

Spring "butterfly" with a hairpin

If there is a void or an old hole in the ceiling - everything same way, as when working on a conventional ceiling, only the fasteners do not have a ring, but a long threaded part, so that it comes out.

• If the chandelier is a console type, that is, it is installed on a mounting plate, then a lot depends on its mass.

- In the case when the total weight from the fixture does not exceed 3 - 5 kg, you can fix the bar directly to the GVL sheet. For this, special dowels for drywall are used - “butterflies” or snails.

Dowels "butterfly" and "snail" for fixing parts on drywall

The first are held as a result of the expansion of the plastic structure under the drywall sheet when screwing in the self-tapping screw. The second principle of operation is different - a very high and sharp thread with a large plane of contact with the sheet material creates a reliable connection when screwing in. The "snail" is screwed in completely, flush with the GVL surface, in the right place, and a hole remains in its center, into which an ordinary self-tapping screw easily enters.

- If the chandelier is heavier, then to fix the mounting plate, you will have to resort to the method with anchors with studs. - as described above. The protruding threaded parts of two or more studs will become mounts for a slatted or cross-shaped console.

All further actions are no different from mounting a chandelier on a regular ceiling.

Video: fixing a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling

Prices for different types of anchors

Anchors

Mounting a chandelier on a heavy ceiling

None practical advice on independent installation of a chandelier on a stretch ceiling will not be given - this should be done only by craftsmen and exclusively before hanging the ceiling canvas.

Read detailed information about what is important to know in our new article.

To install the chandelier, a mounting platform is prepared in advance and suspended from the floor slab, the lower cut of which should fall on the planned height of the stretched canvas. Based on the location of this embedded platform, the craftsmen must cut and properly process the holes themselves, reinforcing their edges, through which the wires and fasteners will pass.

Attempts to cut holes yourself in order to hang the chandelier on an already installed stretch ceiling, using methods of working like a plasterboard ceiling, will not lead to anything good. With a probability close to 100%, they are doomed to failure. A deplorable, but logical result of such amateur performances will be the need for a complete replacement of the canvas.

After the “ceiling” masters finish their work, leaving the necessary holes reinforced with special eyelets for the chandelier and fasteners, the installation of the lamp is carried out with the utmost care so as not to break or puncture the surface in any case.

On a heavy ceiling, it is preferable to use a pendant one so that the lamps are not in close proximity to the canvas. In addition, ordinary incandescent lamps, " halogens" or fluorescent "housekeepers" are not suitable for these purposes - they will quickly spoil the decorative effect of the ceiling covering. Therefore, in order for the ceiling to retain its attractiveness for as long as possible, only LED models are needed.

Video: an example of mounting a chandelier on a heavy ceiling

Chandeliers are an integral part of the interior. The point is not only in beauty and aesthetics, but also in a great opportunity to illuminate the room well. However, not everyone can connect the chandelier correctly. If fixtures with one lamp or two wires do not cause difficulties, then the presence of three can confuse even experienced electricians.

Purpose of wires on the ceiling

There are a huge number of shapes and variations of lamps. Starting from the usual, with ordinary incandescent lamps, to multi-color diode ones. The breadth and originality of human thoughts knows no bounds. But what will even the most luxurious chandelier cost if it is connected incorrectly.

In an apartment or a private house, they can come out of the ceiling 2,3, or 4 wires. There are standards by which their purpose is determined:

• Black, brown or gray is usually a phase. May be marked with the letter "L".
• Blue, blue or their shades indicate that this is a neutral wire. It has the letter designation "N".
• Green, yellow or yellow-green is the "earth" or, as they say, the protective zero. Referred to as "PE".

Colors may not meet the accepted standard.. For example, in some countries, the designation has a different meaning if the wiring was done by an unqualified person, or if the cable with the desired color was not available during installation.

To determine the purpose of the wires without reference to color, you will need the following tools:

• multimeter;
• indicator screwdriver;
• stripper or knife for stripping insulation;
• pliers;
• insulating tape;
• terminal block;
• insulating tubes or cambric.

If three wires come out of the ceiling, and the switch is two-gang, then two wires will be "phase" and one "zero"". Using a multimeter, it will not be difficult to determine their purpose. You can do this with an indicator screwdriver by touching it to bare wires. The switches must be in the "on" position.

To determine where is the “phase” and where is “zero” using a multimeter tester, you need to put the device in the “volts” position and select any two wires. If numbers (≈220 V) appear on the display, then one of them is “zero”, and one is “phase”. Further, without taking away one of the probes from the wire, we move the second probe to another. If the value appears again, the “phases” were moved, and the “zero” was constantly pressed.

If the readings appear on the device, both wires are “phases”. You can verify this by moving one of the probes to the adjacent cable - readings of ≈220 V should appear.

In a situation where only two wires come out of the ceiling, and a switch with one key means one of them is "zero", the other is "phase". Determining the "phase" is easy with an indicator screwdriver.

Wires on a chandelier

Depending on the type of chandelier, the number of wires in it will be different. This suggests that you can connect it in different ways. The most common question in this case is how to connect a chandelier with 3 wires, it requires more detailed consideration.

If there are only two wires in the lamp, the “phase” must be connected to one wire, “zero” to the other. The switch at the same time must be single.

If the lighting device is three-horned or more, there will be several conclusions. Then the question arises, how to connect a chandelier with 3 wires or more.

Unlike wires in the ceiling, the lamp is always There is a color and letter designation. If a ground wire comes out of the ceiling (yellow, green or yellow-green), then the one similar to it on the lamp is connected to it. Further, the connection of a chandelier with three wires is carried out according to the scheme: we connect the "ground" to the "ground" on the ceiling, the "phase" to the "phase" wire, "zero" to "zero".

Connecting a chandelier with four wires or more

Two wires come out of each chandelier horn, as a rule, it is a single blue and brown (black). Although it is possible that the colors may be different. In order to save money and convenience, multi-track lighting fixtures are connected to two-gang switches.

If controlled by a double switch, all luminaire wires are required divide into three groups. One group is "zero", and two are "phases". All "phases" must be assembled together, after which the remaining wires are divided into two groups. Please note that cables of a different color do not fall into any of the three groups. You need to understand that from one group one part of the bulbs will burn, from the other - the other.

The wiring diagram for a chandelier with a double switch is quite simple. The resulting three groups need connect to the three wires in the ceiling. The main thing here is to remember where are the "phases" and where are the "zero". "Phases", respectively, are connected to the "phases" found on the ceiling, the remaining group "zero" - to "zero" on the ceiling.

What if we have a multi-track chandelier, and only two wires come out of the ceiling? It is necessary not to divide the "phases" into groups, but merge them into one. In this case, the remote control will be single-key, and all the lights will be on when turned on together without the possibility of dividing into two groups. In this case, it will not work to connect the chandelier to a double switch, or only one of the two keys will work.

Thus, the question of how to connect a chandelier to a two-gang switch can be solved independently without the help of specialists. The main thing, always keep safety in mind. All work must be done with the switches and machines turned off. Under voltage, you can work only when it is necessary to determine the "phase" and "zero". At the same time, it is strictly forbidden to touch bare wires.

After purchasing a chandelier, its assembly follows, the complexity of which depends on its design features and type of attachment. If a detailed handy instruction, then connecting the chandelier will require knowledge of electricians. The safety of lighting in the house depends on the correct observance of all conditions.

Preparation for work

First, it is necessary to determine the phase, zero and ground among the wires, the presence of which is optional. For ease of detection, you can use the electrical circuit in the passport document for the chandelier, indicating the purpose of its conductors and the stages of their connection.

Standard color code:

• White or brown conductor - phase;
• Blue - zero;
• Yellow-green - grounding.

The connection is made to the wire of the same color on the chandelier. In its absence, the bare wire is carefully insulated so as not to accidentally short it out.

Before starting work, the switch keys should be switched to the “off” position. The input machine on the panel must also be in the off state. Preparing the wires for testing is to open them. The luminaire is connected with the power off. After the preparatory work, power is supplied to the wires.

Step-by-step instructions for ringing wires with a tester:

We connect correctly

After determining the electrical wires, you will again need to turn off the power to install the lighting fixture. When twisting wires, the use of PVC tape is undesirable due to its drying out over time and, accordingly, a decrease in its insulating characteristics.

When twisting the electrical wires into one group and winding the protective cap, they may oxidize over time and heat up. Soldering of such connections is recommended, which guarantees normal contact and no overheating.

When connecting electrical wires from a lighting fixture to ceiling electrical wires from a switch, twisting rules are not allowed. This will require the use of terminal boxes. In this case, a problem is possible when a twist of several electrical wires does not enter the hole. The solution is to solder a copper conductor with a cross section of 0.5 sq. mm. The connection is insulated, and the free end of the conductor 10 cm long is inserted into.

After inserting all the electrical wires from the lighting fixture into the terminal block and tightening the screws, the chandelier is raised under the ceiling. After attaching the chandelier to the terminal block, the electrical wires are connected in the required order: zeros - one opposite the other, phases to phases - arbitrarily.

Chandelier installation

Lighting connection options depend on:

• the number of output electrical wires from the lighting device;
• the number of output electrical wires from the ceiling;
• number of keys on the room switch.

With two wires

Connecting two contacts of a lighting device to two wires:

• Zero contact connection from a chandelier with a neutral wire in the ceiling, which comes out of .
• Phase connection, which is brown or white wire, with a phase in the ceiling leading to the switch.

Connecting two chandelier wires to three pins:

1. Three ceiling contacts - the result of the presence of grounding or connection to a two-gang switch.
2. An indicator screwdriver is used to determine the common wire. When you touch two wires, the indicator lights up - the third wire will be common.
3. When the indicator glows on one wire, it will be common. Such a check requires that both keys of the switch are in the working position.
4. The wires are connected with terminal clamps. The conductor is fixed in the clamp and any ceiling outlet.
5. After the connection is made to the terminal pairs lived from the lighting device.

With three or more wires

Connection from three wires on the chandelier to two ceiling contacts:

• In this case, only 1 option is possible.– Simultaneous ignition of all bulbs.
• All zeros of the lighting device are connected to each other and their connection to the ceiling zero output.
• The phases are connected in the same way.

Connection from three wires on the chandelier to three ceiling contacts:

1. This option is for the switch with two keys.
2. Marking of three ceiling wires: phase - L1; phase - L2; zero - N. The phases are designed to enter the switch keys, and zero - directly to the chandelier.
3. The wires from the lamps should be divided into two sections, each of which is connected to only one of the wires to supply a phase through it.
4. Be sure to connect both sections to zero. Then, pressing one of the switch keys, one group of lamps will light, pressing the second - another.

Connection from three wires on the chandelier to four ceiling pins:

• An additional fourth wire can be ground, which performs a protective function. Its marking is PE.
• If the chandelier has a yellow-green ground pin, it is twisted with the ceiling ground. In its absence in the chandelier, the ceiling ground contact is isolated.

Connecting a chandelier to a single-gang switch

If you need to connect a multi-track chandelier through a switch with one key, two options are possible:

• The disassembled lighting device and its assembly is carried out for a single-gang switch. Then all electrical wires are connected from the central contacts of the device cartridges and they are connected through the terminal block to the phase one coming from the single-gang switch.
• The lighting device is already assembled to a two-gang switch, then the connection of all electrical wires from the central contacts of the cartridges of the device is carried out in the terminal block to the phase single-key switch.

In the presence of a single-key switch and two ceiling electrical wires, among which are phase and zero. The phases of the lighting device are connected to each other and to the phase of the electrical wiring, the zeros are connected in the same way.

In the presence of a single-key switch and three contacts, the purpose of the third electrical wire is determined. After turning on the switch, the voltage is checked on all electrical wires. If there is a phase on two electric wires, it is necessary to replace the switch with a two-gang one.

If there is a phase on only one contact and yellow-green insulation on the third, then both phase wiring of the chandelier is connected to the phase contact of the electrical wiring, and the ground is isolated and removed.

Connecting a chandelier to a two-gang switch

The connection of multi-track chandeliers to such a switch is made according to the same principle. All contacts from the chandelier are divided into 3 groups: 2 phase and 1 zero. First, all zero electrical wires are combined and twisted. The rest are randomly divided into 2 groups, which are also carefully twisted. The resulting 2 groups are connected to the ceiling phases.

Following the example of a three-arm chandelier, it is possible to connect in two ways - with and without grounding. Without the use of grounding, the main steps would be:

1. Electrical assembly. 2 contacts are connected to the bulb holder - 0, connected on the side, and a phase conductor, connected in the center of the cartridge. The light bulb horns are attached to the concave base of the lighting device, which connects the electrical wires in accordance with the two-gang switch.
2. Connecting a lighting fixture to a two-gang switch whose keys determine the number of lamps that light up when they are pressed. By themselves, the zeros on the side of the cartridge and the phases from its middle have neither 0 nor a positive charge. The zero supply is not carried out through the switch, but directly. All zeros from the lamp sockets form the basis of the chandelier in the form of a plexus. The phases are distributed in the luminaire frame into 2 groups. Both groups and the zero plexus are connected in turn to each of the three electrical wires of the central cable going up through the trunk of the chandelier. The phases go to the phases of the electrical wires of the junction box, and zero to zero.
3. Connecting the electrical wires in the junction box, from which three electrical wires go to the switch, and the same number to the chandelier. The distributor itself is powered by a two-wire electrical wire. The electrical wire that carries the positive charge to the distributor is connected to the contact from the switch. And the electrical wire leading from the distributor to the chandelier is connected to zero in the distributor. Groups of phases are connected in turn with electrical wires from the switch.
4. Connection of electrical wires in a switch with two buttons and three contacts - on the right, left and in the middle. A phase conductor under constant voltage goes to the central one. The rest are connected to the phase groups of the distribution of light bulbs. Each key contributes to the closing of the central contact and the ignition of the corresponding number of lamps.

When mounted with grounding in the distributor, the third protective electrical conductor comes out of it and is connected to the metal frame of the luminaire.

Connecting chandeliers with a remote control

The operation of halogen lamps is carried out from 12 V or 24 V, which explains the installation of step-down transformers in each of them. The assembly of the circuit has already been made and it is only necessary to install it. Only 2 electrical wires connected to the ceiling contacts are free. Connection is optional.

In the presence of a remote control, in addition to the transformers, there is a control unit. Two conductors with ceiling contacts are connected in a similar way. And the antenna in the form of a thin conductor coming from the other side will facilitate communication between the remote control and the control unit. It remains in the same form inside the cap.

The appearance of only one phase of the voltage is possible between the phase and the working zero. If everything was connected correctly, the common wire of the lamp is connected to 0, a positive charge is supplied through the switch to two contacts.

If there is a connection error, the common electrical wire is connected to the phase, and 0 is supplied through the switch to the remaining wires. The lamp will be lit, but if you want to change the bulb, there is a risk of electric shock when the switch is off.

If it is necessary to simultaneously turn on / off the lamp with two keys for two contacts that come out of the ceiling, it is possible to install a jumper or their mutual connection in the terminal block.

The chandelier is ceiling lamp, which should provide shadowless lighting in the room. Light is evenly distributed by spotlights located at a certain distance from each other. Light sources today are incandescent, fluorescent and LED.

Purchasing a chandelier is a pleasant moment when you finish furnishing your home and after buying a new piece of furniture, it remains to connect it. Assembly time depends on the complexity of the design and the type of fastening. Moreover, you can cope with this task quickly and easily, just follow the instructions and have simple installation tools in your arsenal, and in order to connect it, you also need to understand the electrics.

A multi-lamp lamp is available in all apartments and houses. For even distribution of light, it is usually located in the center of the ceiling. Let's see what knowledge is required to connect the chandelier with your own hands.

Where to begin?

First you need to figure out how many cords come out of the ceiling. Usually there are two or three. If there are two of them, then the design provides for the simultaneous inclusion of all the bulbs and there will be no difficulties with connecting the chandelier. And the presence of three cords makes it possible to turn on the bulbs individually and group them to change the level of illumination. As a result, the difficulty arises in the fact that you need to understand which wires to connect to each other. In order for the chandelier to work properly, it is important to connect everything correctly. Before starting work, be sure to familiarize yourself with the cable arrangement. So, let's proceed in order.

Observe safety precautions

The main requirement during the connection of the chandelier is the de-energization of the entire section of the electrical wiring. Simply turning off the light in this case is not enough, you need to completely turn off the machines in the shield.

Then you need to prepare the cables for testing. They should be opened to prevent further contact with each other.

According to the marking, cables are designated in Latin letters:

It should be noted that the marking is not always present, because it began to be applied not so long ago. In this case, you should use the machine located in the shield and turn the switch to the "ON" position. Then, with an indicator screwdriver, you need to touch the bare ends in turn - if the LED lights up inside during the process - the cable is energized and is a phase. After determining the types of wires, turn off the power again and proceed to connection work.

There are two ways to connect cables to each other:

Chandelier mounting options can be found by clicking on the link:

The following parameters can affect the way the chandelier is connected:

• the number of cords in the chandelier;
• the number of wires in the ceiling;
• number of keys on the switch.

Scheme one. Two cords on the chandelier and two wires on the ceiling

This method of connecting a chandelier is the easiest, because it does not require much effort. In this case, it is necessary to simply connect the cables to each other using a twist or terminal block, having previously determined where the phase is and where it is zero. Moreover, the connection order can be any.

Zero cable (in the diagram of blue color) should be connected from the junction box directly to the neutral wire coming from the lighting device. And the orange cable, with a phase, should be connected to both the chandelier and the switch.

When connecting a chandelier with a large number of light bulbs to a switch with one key, you must first connect all the neutral wires of the chandelier, and then connect them to the neutral cable from the junction box. Then combine them with the phase and lead to the switch.

It's important to know! According to the requirements of the electrical installation rules (PUE), the phase must be connected to the central contact in the electrical cartridge, and the phase wire must be opened by a switch. Compliance with these rules will increase the safety of the operation of lighting devices.

Scheme two. Two cords on the chandelier and three wires on the ceiling

Today, in the construction of houses in electrical wiring, three-core cables with wires of different colors are used. It is logical to assume that three wires will need to be connected to the lighting fixture. How to connect a chandelier in this situation, if it has only two cables?

To begin with, using the indicator, you need to deal with the types of wires that come out of the ceiling. Two of them will be phase, and the third will be a conductor. Two phases in this case imply a switch with two keys. However, given the fact that the chandelier has only two cables, a switch with one key will suffice.

It's important to know! Before connecting, it is necessary to carry out insulation, having previously turned off the voltage.

Scheme three. Three or more cords on the chandelier and two wires on the ceiling

In the case when only two cables come out of the ceiling, all the lamps in the lighting fixture will burn at the same time. To connect, you need to combine the neutral wires, and then lead them to the zero ceiling cable. Next, it is worth repeating the procedure with phase.

Scheme four. Three or more wires on the chandelier and three on the ceiling

This connection option can provide a more reasonable use of lamps. It will be possible to combine their work or turn them on in turn. In this case, a two-gang switch will be used.

The marking of the ceiling wires is as follows: phase - L1 (orange), phase - L2 (yellow) and zero - N (blue). Due to the fact that cable manufacturers do not always indicate designations, and electricians may not adhere to color scheme standards when installing wiring, it is better to double-check their purpose with an indicator screwdriver before connecting them.

It's important to know! Do not forget that phase cables are always laid to the switch, and zero cables to the lighting fixture.

Connecting a chandelier with several cords is carried out with a certain sequence of actions. First, the wires from the light bulbs must be divided into two groups. All sections are individually connected to only one wire, to which the phase leads, and then the sections are combined with zero.

With this setting, one group of light bulbs will light up with the first key, and another group with the second. This connection option allows you to connect one, two or three bulbs together using only one switch button.

The second way to connect a chandelier, for example, with six horns - the first key turns on 5 light bulbs together, and the second - the sixth.

With a large number of horns in the lighting device, the installation will proceed in an identical way. It remains to decide which combination of lamps you want to use in lighting this room.

Scheme five. Three or more wires on the chandelier and four on the ceiling

If it is necessary to connect a chandelier in a new building or a private house, most likely, a cord with a protection function will come out of the ceiling. As a rule, this cable is yellow-green and is marked in Latin letters PE, which literally means a grounding conductor. As a result, from the side of the ceiling there will be wires with phases L1 and L2, a neutral wire and a fourth pinching wire - PE.

In no case will such a cord interfere with the connection - just connect it to the yellow-green wire from the side of the chandelier. If the lighting device does not provide for the presence of this wire, then the cable is insulated from the ceiling side.

Installation of several chandeliers on one switch

This connection case is very relevant for lighting control in several rooms, large living rooms or in a room with a false ceiling with a group of LED lamps.

In this situation, all lighting fixtures must be connected in parallel.

Moreover, each chandelier can have its own junction box.

Mounting three chandeliers on a three-gang switch

This connection method is used in kitchen, toilet and bathroom lighting, and the three-button switch is very convenient here.

Also, a switch with three keys is used in the corridor to control the light in different areas.

Installation of a chandelier with a fan

Connecting such a model is a fairly rational solution, especially in hot weather. Before installing this type of lighting device, you just need to read the instructions, which will detail the connection diagram.

To make it clearer: the fan in this case acts as another lamp, which is connected in parallel.

At your request, you can also make a separate switch key for it.

As you can see, connecting a lighting fixture is a simple task if you know how to do it right. Follow the diagrams, follow the installation rules, and you can easily cope with the connection without outside help.